Diary of Juan Bautista de Anza

Exploratory Expedition, 1774


Tuesday, February 1 SP -- At eight in the morning we set out on the road on which we had spent the night. Going northwest, immediately we climbed some small hills which must be hollow, because when the horses walked over them there was a sound similar to that of an underground cavern. Having passed these hills, which lasted for a league, and then traveled two more over better terrain, the water was reached.

This watering place is found in the midst of a number of hills whose opening is towards the east. It has six tanks of very good rain water. In the first the animals drink. It is easily filled from the tanks above by climbing up and emptying them through the natural channel in the living rock which connects them all. In them there is a large supply of water, and as much more could be supplied if they were cleared of the rocks and sand with which they abound. All the animals were well provided with water and when pasturage was sought it was found at a short distance.

These tanks, the one farther back, and another which is ahead of us, are inhabited by the Papagos in the height of the dry season and as long as the water gathered in them lasts, through their desire to hunt mountain sheep there. These animals, as to skin and other characteristics, are like large deer, differing only in their horns, which are thicker than those of the largest ox, but in shape and position are like those of common sheep. They live among the cliffs that are highest and most difficult to scale. They are native to dry and sterile regions. Their flesh is better than that of deer. They multiply very slowly, and almost never run in the level country because of the impediment of their horns. These horns the Indians are careful not to waste. Indeed, whenever they kill the sheep, they carry the horns to the neighborhood of the water holes, where they go piling them up to prevent the Air from leaving the place. Those who, like ourselves, do not practice or do not know of this superstition, they warn not to take one from its place, because that element would come out to molest everybody and cause them to experience greater troubles.

Wednesday, February 2 SP -- I named these tanks La Purificacian. While here I learned that the pack train had reached E1 Empinado greatly fatigued and with some of the mules worn out. I therefore decided to await the pack train here, and to send the relay muleteer to it with the few mules which I brought to carry my necessary baggage and other indispensable, and they set out today -- From Tubac to El Aguaje de la Purificacian, 114 leagues.

Thursday, February 3 SP -- In the middle of the day the pack train arrived, indeed completely worn out, and for this reason I thought it best not to march until tomorrow.

Friday, February 4 SP -- About half past eight in the morning we set out west-northwest on the road which leads to some wells. Going over good terrain, passing hills on both sides, and traveling five leagues, the wells were reached. I immediately had them opened, and it was seen that the water ran in quantities sufficient for all our animals, and that there was pasturage. Camp was therefore made at these wells for the night and they were named Pozos de en Medio.--From Tubac to Los Pozos de en Medio, 119 leagues.

Saturday, February 5 SP -- At half past seven we set out along a made road toward the west-northwest, and having traveled seven leagues, continually passing hills on both sides, we reached the watering place which, on account of its long distance from the road, we inferred must be the one which the Jesuit fathers called Agua Escondida. Here with much difficulty we succeeded in watering the horses and mules only, for, because the flow decreased and of the great inconvenience, the cattle could not be watered by nightfall, so this was left until tomorrow. ÐFrom Tubac to El Agua Escondida, 126 leagues.

Here at this place we found a Papago, a native of the pueblo of San Marcelo de Son?itac, with his family. He was a Christian called Luis, and was returning to San Marcelo from the rivers Gila and Colorado. Having already learned of my coming to the rivers, he had set out from there the day before to warn me that I should advance to them with caution, saying that part of the people, and especially those living some distance above the junction of the two rivers, had decided to prevent me from crossing the streams, intending to kill me, the fathers, and others who were with me, in order to possess our horses and other things which I brought. He added that the captain of the Yumas whom we call Palma (I saw him last month at the presidio of E1 Altar, and told him of my coming) had not been able to dissuade these people from their intention; but that he had declared that he was always favorable to me, as were all of his nation and his allies down the river, and that his friendly attitude was being supported by two other chiefs or head men. The Papago said that these two and Palma were checking the disturbers, chiding them for their bad conduct, and warning them of their peril, saying that the soldiers were sufficient with their valor and their weapons to cope with many more if they should provoke us, but that if they did not do so we were so well disposed that without any pressure we would make them presents of whatever we were bringing and they might desire, as we had done with Palma himself when he went to our settlements, where he and those who accompanied him were treated kindly.

This report, although it gave me no great anxiety, served as a warning, so that in case it might have some foundation I might provide the means to frustrate the plan completely. Indeed, any inquietude on the part of these chiefs would be prejudicial to us. And since the prevention of such unrest was one of my first cares and one of the first aims of the orders of his Excellency the Viceroy, and of the Council of War and Exchequer, I prepared to proceed accordingly. For this purpose, consulting the reverend fathers who accompanied me and who agreed with me, I set about learning with certainty what foundation this story had, and since nobody could tell us better than the same Captain Palma, I thought it best to talk with him before taking for granted the report about the disaffected Indians. To put this into effect I decided to send for him, before reaching the rivers, by the bearer of the story himself, promising him a horse and presents. He replied that he would gladly go the next day, but that he was tired now, and he knew that there would be time to come with the Captain to meet me the following morning, on my arrival at the rivers.

Sunday, February 6 SP -- At eight in the morning I sent the messenger named on a good horse, and he again promised to meet me on the road the next morning. An hour before this we had commenced to water our horses, in order to be free in the middle of the day to set forth to reach the rivers. Indeed, it was not possible to remain here any longer, because of the scarcity of the water and the still greater scarcity of pasturage.

And so at two in the afternoon we set out over a traveled road toward the south, to round the little range which contains the Agua Escondida. On its skirts we traveled in this direction about a league and a quarter, then, leaving it behind at the right, the road turns to the northwest, in which direction we traveled five leagues more, until nine o'clock at night, when camp was made in a place that had plentiful pasturage.

On the march of this day and that of yesterday we have had on our left the sand dunes through which the Jesuit fathers made their way to the Rio Colorado and which cost them the failure of many of their journeys. This transit, so difficult, unless we are mistaken, they never would have made except with the idea that only by crossing the Colorado near where it empties into the Gulf they would find the passage which they sought.

Monday, February 7 SP -- Shortly after sunrise we set forth over the road on which we had camped for the night, always skirting the sand dunes described on our left, although for a distance of about two and a half leagues some small patches of them are crossed before reaching the Gila River. At that distance from the river, at eleven o'clock this morning, the messenger whom I sent yesterday came out to meet me with one of the headmen of the Yumas, because Captain Palma was absent from his village. This headman is a subject of his, and immediately he told me that Palma and all his people had good hearts, and desired to know us, and that we should go to their houses to accept their hospitality, and that in faith of this we must go at once, for the rumors of unrest, as I already knew, had been dispelled by him and his captain, Palma, who would tell me the same when I met him, which would take place today.

This headman came with an escort of eight of his subjects, with no other arms, clothing or baggage than a firebrand in his hands. The others, as naked as he, carried bows and a few arrows, and were mounted on good mares. As soon as he had finished his speech I answered him tenderly, telling him to dispatch one of his followers to tell his people to come to see me, with the assurance that I loved them all, and that I would neither injure nor incommode anybody. He did so at once, although in truth it was not necessary, for from here forward all the country swarmed with people, most of them unarmed.

About three in the afternoon we descended to the Gila River, having traveled five leagues. I was now followed by a company of more than two hundred men, all of them overjoyed at our coming, which they celebrated with cheers and smiles, at the same time throwing up fistfuls of earth into the air and with other demonstrations expressing the greatest guilelessness and friendship. At this hour a halt was made in the first pasture and good terrain which was found, and here every minute assembled more and more people of both sexes, who the longer they looked at our persons, our clothes, and other things used by us, the more they marveled -- From Tubac to the Island of La Santissima Trinidad on the Gila River, 138 leagues.

At five in the afternoon Captain Palma arrived at our camp with more than sixty persons in his company. As soon as he dismounted he begged me to embrace him, which I did. With every sign of affection, I had him sit down and given some refreshments, after which he spoke as follows:

He was sorry not to be at his village when I arrived, in order that I might have come to it at once today; he had already reprimanded his people because they had not invited us; the reason why he had not come out to receive me sooner was that when he arrived at his house my messenger had departed and was already several leagues away. The disturbances due to some opposition to us, of which he supposed I already knew, had not succeeded. Those who had caused it did not dare to do anything; they were not his people, but lived a long way from his house up the river. As soon as the rumor went forth he expelled them from his jurisdiction, therefore I must not pay any attention to it. Indeed, he and all of his people were rejoiced at our passage by his residence, to which, as he had promised me at the presidio of E1 Altar, he had notified his people to come to see me, giving orders that they must not steal anything or molest us in any other way. I must let them look at me and touch my belongings without being offended, for they wished it, especially those who never had seen us, who were the majority, so that they might know what we were like and might serve us with the things with which we clothed ourselves and used.

While he was making this speech the captain noticed that the soldiers were going around with swords in their belts, keeping the horses ready, with other signs of vigilance on the part of the troops. He begged me that they all should be put at rest and break ranks, with confidence in their friendship, because there was no danger to fear. I replied that such a disposition of the soldiers was indispensable to us wherever we might be, entirely apart from any risk, which was lacking within the presidios where, as he knew, guards were established daily, just as if they were in front of the enemy. With this he was satisfied. I then answered his first speech, eulogizing him warmly for his friendship and fidelity, saying to him that with full confidence he must tell his people to come and see me freely and whenever they might wish, and that they would be humored in everything just like my children and my friends, for such they were, since he was.

In view of the fidelity which this Indian professed for us, and realizing how important it was at all times and for all events to keep his friendship, I thought it well to confer upon him some honor to distinguish him from the rest, and to give him a present to correspond with his good conduct. I therefore told him to assemble all his people near my tent. When they had come I asked them if they recognized him as their chief and superior, to which they all answered "Yes." I then told them that in the name of the king, who was lord of everybody, I was confirming him in his office, in order that he might rule legally and with greater authority, and be recognized even by the Spaniards, who would respect his rights; that I was decorating him, as I did, with a red ribbon bearing a coin of his Majesty, of whom that image seen on it was a likeness, an honor which I was conferring upon him as a sign of the obedience which he must render to the king. He promised to comply, and after I had hung the coin around his neck I embraced him. With both the medal and the embrace he was pleased, and the hundreds of his people marveled at the gift, and at my demonstration of affection, manifesting theirs with unbounded joy.

Noting the appreciation which the chief showed for his insignia (for he had not eyes enough with which to look at it or words in which to express to me his gratitude, though he did manage to say I was his master), I took the opportunity to tell him, in the presence of two of his subalterns, that there was only one God; that He was the one who created us, the heavens, the sun, the moon, the stars, and everything there is on earth, including a master, the king, who was subject to God, and that all the Spaniards, who were more numerous than he could imagine, were subject to both; that God had given to the king all these lands and many more, in extent unknown, full of Spaniards, and that he therefore ruled all of us; that we not only obeyed him but revered his orders; that it is because the king loves us so much that we have plenty of horses, clothing, iron, knives, and all we possess; that for all this they thanked him sincerely, for indeed he had provided his realm with much more, so that like them, with our labor we might acquire maize, wheat and other crops, for he who does not work does not have them; but that even without labor the king provides many things free of cost, as he had seen in the pueblos of the Pimas, for he supports the fathers, the churches, and other things.

I told him that the king, who is liberal with all, is so in greater measure with them and all other Indians, from whom he asks nothing and takes nothing; that he had commanded all the Spaniards to call them brothers, and because he loved them all he had sent me through this region, enduring toils, in order to visit them and give them peace in his name, without injuring anybody, and in order through my report to learn about them; that if they should suffer any damage in the smallest trifle from the men in my command I should deal with them severely; that in the name of the king I should go on regaling them as I passed through their villages; that the king does not ask from them any other thing than that they return the love which he feels for them, by rendering him vassalage and obedience, and living without killing one another; that God also commands this; and since we are all children of both God and the king, and just as none of them like to have their children killed, and if any of them should die the father would grieve, just so it is with God and the king. I told him that I was saying all this to him so that he might tell it to his people. To everything he listened attentively, saying that he had never heard any words more welcome, and that he would make them known to all who were under his rule.

Soon after this speech the captain asked me for my cane. Taking it in his hands he called to his people, and in their midst commenced an harangue which lasted more than an hour. From time to time we observed that those assembled very frequently covered their mouths, in sign of surprise. Having finished, he ordered them all to go to their huts, but very few of them did so. Indeed, most of them remained to spend the night with us, with as much confidence as if they had dealt with us for years. Palma came to tell me that he had repeated to his people what I had told him; that they had all listened with pleasure; and that he would do the same in other villages as we passed through them, as far as he went with me, and of these matters he would speak also to other tribes, his allies.

Tuesday, February 8 SP -- At the usual hour we set forth down the Gila River, and having gone half a league along its bank we came to a ford to which Captain Palma guided us. Here I gave orders to unload in order to take over the cargo, which this captain offered to have carried across on the heads of the strongest and tallest of his men. Seeing the willingness with which they offered, and there being nothing to cause mistrust, I consented to it. Nevertheless I first crossed over with half of the soldiers. Immediately afterward followed the horse herd and the cattle, and then the cargo was taken over. The crossing having been finished with entire success, at three in the afternoon, and in the presence of more than five hundred persons, we halted in a convenient spot where we unloaded, because there was not time enough to continue to the Colorado River. And so we remained to finish this day between the two rivers, which unite a short distance away.

Right here a beautiful island, which I named La Santasima Trinidad, is formed by a branch of the Colorado River which enters the Gila before it unites with the former, and is the residence of Captain Palma of the Yumas. More than six hundred persons, ranging from eight to fifty years of age, of both sexes, having assembled on the island, I arranged to give presents to them all, to see if they would leave us in peace for a while, because since daylight it had been nothing but get near us, touch us, and ask us about everything we use, and other impertinence's of this nature. To prevent any one from twice getting the little gift of beads and tobacco which was given to each one, and which they greatly esteemed, I stood them all in a row. Their captain then made them an harangue similar to the one described before, commanding them to give thanks for the gifts and to go away till next day, so that we might rest. Some of them obeyed, but many remained till nightfall, when we began to prepare a little food, for hitherto it had not been possible with the disorder caused by so many people, for there was not a thing at which they did not marvel, for which reason the utmost patience and tolerance has been necessary today.

While I was engaged in the distribution, an Indian, naked like all the rest, came groaning so pitifully that it seemed that he was suffering the greatest affliction and grief. He gave three groans to each person, touching him on the shoulder, and so he went amongst them all. I asked what the man was suffering from, for in truth he won my compassion, and they replied "Nothing;" that he was from one of the villages down the river; that he brought the news that his father had died, and accordingly he had come to invite all those present to go and weep while they were burning the body of the deceased, which was the kind of funeral they customarily held.

Wednesday, February 9 SP -- Observing the same precautions as yesterday, at nine o'clock today we began to cross the Colorado River by a special ford to which Captain Palma guided us. The crossing was effected with all success in the presence of more than six hundred men, most of whom, and even the women and children, assisted lest we should stray from the places where they told us it was the shallowest. With this help we all succeeded in crossing on horseback without wetting anything of importance. In celebration of the crossing, which could not have been done with the same facility in any other part of this river, and because this was the first time it had been done by the arms of the king, I had a salute given by firing off some rockets. This volley pleased the Indians, although the roar frightened

them so that on hearing it they threw themselves on the ground -- From Tubac to the junction of the Gila and Colorado rivers, 138 leagues or a little more.

After this ceremony I measured the present width of the Colorado River at the place where the Indians told me it was its regular width at the height of the dry season, as is now the case. It is ninety-five fathoms wide and a little more than five palms deep on an average, the branch which forms the island whence we set out today being smaller at this point. The Gila I did not measure, because at the place where I could have done so it had already been joined by this branch of the Colorado mentioned, but according to the report of the Indians it may be estimated as half the size of the Colorado in every way, except that in the quality of the water the Gila surpasses the other, although that of neither river is of the best, because both are a little salty.

After all the foregoing I caused all our train to halt in the very place where these rivers unite, and, after joining, pass between two small hills, of solid rock. To this place the Jesuit Fathers gave the name of San Dionicio, and from the hill on the other side they observed the latitude, which they say is thirty-five and a half degrees.

To the hills on this side I gave the name of the Pass of Concepcion. From them one gets a very delightful view, having in sight the confluence of the rivers, and the immense grove of willows and cottonwoods which cover the banks both upstream and down and as far as the eye can reach, all useful for beams because they are so straight. One also sees a sierra close by, through an opening in which the Colorado River comes from the north-northwest. In the same direction one sees a large peak, which because of its size and form I named the Giant's Head. To the east-northeast there is another opening in a sierra that is cut by the Gila, and likewise another peak, smaller than the other, which I called the Bell because it is shaped like one.

This day was no less troublesome than yesterday because of the assemblage of more than eight hundred persons. I regaled them with a beef, glass beads, and tobacco. They appeared more confident today than yesterday, and remained to spend the night amongst us in much larger numbers than last night.

Here I talked with an Indian of the Soiopa tribe who told me that three days' travel up the Colorado where he lives it divides. He said that the larger stream was this one, and that the smaller branch turned to the north to join another river larger than this Colorado, and that there its water is even redder than that of this river, and of whose disemboguement into the sea, he said, they are ignorant. Likewise another told me that three days' travel down this Colorado River the natives who inhabit it told him that five days beyond them there was a road traveled by Spaniards, who we presume must be those of the port of San Diego, but that to reach it there was a great scarcity of water even in the rainy season. I have inquired whether or not this river has any fall, and they assure me that between here and the place where it empties into the sea there is none, and that they do not know that it has any above in the many leagues concerning which they have information.

There seems no doubt that it is twelve days from here to the province of El Moqui, for according to the reports which I have acquired there intervene only three or four tribes. The blankets of black and blue wool that come from that province are seen in abundance among these Yumas, who acquire them through the Soiopa tribe already named.

Thursday, February 10 SP -- Raising our train, shortly after eight o'clock we set out down the river toward the west-northwest with a following of more than six hundred persons, who insisted on showing us the best trails, clearing them of little brush or reeds which obstructed them, and with the same vigor volunteered to drive the pack mules, horses and cattle, each animal having at its side five or six men who had the satisfaction of guiding it along. Having traveled about four leagues in this direction, we passed along the skirt of a hill which we called San Pablo, and going beyond it to the west for another league, halt was made for the night on the banks of the river at a place where there was some pasturage and many habitations of Yumas.

At this place a larger assemblage gathered than at the preceding ones. I regaled them with glass beads, tobacco and a tired-out beef. Someone among the multitude who remained to pass the night amongst us, now entirely disarmed, stole from us a lance and an adz just to furnish one of those mishaps that are bound to happen. When I reported and complained of this theft to Captain Palma he denounced it severely and promised that on our return he would have the articles restored and punishment administered -- From Tubac to San Pablo on the Colorado River, 143 leagues.

Friday, February 11 SP -- At eight in the morning we continued the march downstream toward the west with the same crowd, which stayed with us until about a league before we reached the place where we camped for the night. Only some sixty persons came to the camp, including those who lived in this place, which must be about six leagues from the foregoing camp, and is on the farthest boundary or jurisdiction of Captain Palma and the place where the Yuma tribe ends. ÐFrom Tubac to the same river, 149 leagues.

I have not said anything in particular about this tribe because. since I had to travel through the country which it occupies, I wished meanwhile to observe more closely both the land and the people, in order to speak of them with more foundation. The people in general are very robust and more than eight palms tall. Their temperament is the best to be found among Indians, for they are very festive, affectionate, and generous. Their color is not as dark as that of other tribes and they are less painted than some. They have naturally good features, but they make themselves ferocious by painting all the body and especially the face.

The men go entirely naked, without the least sign of shame for their manhood, and to go partly covered they consider womanish, as they themselves have told us. They have good heads of hair, which they do up in many and diverse ways, with very fine mud, upon which they scatter a powder of such bright luster that it looks like silver. In order not to disturb this coiffure they sleep sitting up. It has already been said that the men paint their faces excessively with black and red colors, and this applies also to the women. The men have their ears perforated with at least three holes, five being the most common, and in all of them they wear earrings. They also perforate the nose, or its cartilage, and through it thrust a cluster of feathers, or more commonly a sprig of palm as long and thicker than the largest bird's quill, wherewith they succeed in making themselves not only ferocious but horrible.

To arms and warfare they appear to be little inclined. They rarely have a quiver. Few have as many as five bad arrows, and their bows are worse. In this way about a third of them go armed, the other two-thirds carrying merely a lance four yards long, an instrument for a game, while the old and aged men carry clubs. At the first touch of cold in the morning or in the afternoon, those armed with bows and arrows generally lay them down wherever they happen to be, and take a firebrand which they generally put in front of their stomachs or behind their backs to warm themselves. The reason why they sleep only three hours out of the twenty-four in a day is the slender shelter they have, especially when they are outside of their villages, for in the villages they at least have their little huts in the soft earth, into which they crawl and assemble all that make up a family. Their language is easy to pronounce, and it seems to me that it would be easy to write. They pronounce Castilian as plainly as we do.

The women are like the men in robustness and height. Their features are generally medium, as Indian women go. I have seen no horribly homely ones here such as are seen among other tribes, nor anyone particularly handsome in this respect. They go clothed or half covered only from the waist to the thighs or knees, with little skirts which they make from the inner bark of the willow and the cottonwood, divided in two pieces, wearing the shortest in front. From the same kind of bark and from that of the mesquite they make some wide fabrics which, although they are more closely woven, are nearly as course as the cloth which in the kingdom we call guangoche bruto. These fabrics they have for clothing, and the women who wear them might be called rich, and much more so those who acquire pieces of skins of beaver, hare, and other fur-bearing animals. Both men and women go entirely barefooted.

From those I have seen and from what I have heard of the rest I judge that there must be 3,500 people in the Yuma tribe, and this is the estimate given me by Father Garces, who before now has observed these villages more at leisure. The number will not be much more or less than this estimate.

In the country which I have seen from the junction of the rivers to here, at intervals there are fields sown with wheat without irrigation, but so good and well sprouted that the best irrigated wheat in our country does not equal it. One sees also the places where they plant maize, beans, calabashes, melons, and muskmelons, all in such abundance that we have marveled, and wished that the Indians whom we have reduced would devote themselves as industriously to agriculture as these. This fertility of the land, which they say is the same upstream and better downstream, is greatly aided by the annual overflow which the meadows receive after the coming of spring, as a result of the melting of the snow in the interior, while it does not destroy or carry away the trees; and the meadows are silt covered for at least half a league on each bank, and many persons tell me that the waters spread out to even a greater distance. This fertility is enjoyed by both rivers, considering them separately for it is known that the tribes who inhabit them gather equal harvests.

From all that I have seen of these rivers, especially from the junction downstream, this place seems to me to be very suitable for planting vineyards and many other kinds of fruit trees, for the crops would be obtained without irrigation, and in view of the climate, which is so mild that we have scarcely felt any cold at night, the fruit would not be exposed to danger from frosts.

At the hills at the Pass of Concepcion, according to my limited knowledge, I judge that two irrigating ditches could be made, one on each side, safe and very long, to run the water to the firm land, with which the crops would be assured in every way; and even without these ditches crops can be gathered here beyond one's imagination. This river is short of pasturage, but it does not lack what is necessary to maintain small numbers of cattle. Most of the pastures are of bottom land, and they abound in carrizo, on which cattle thrive, and in the rainy season, although they tell me the rains are light, there must also be other grasses which serve the same purpose. The horses which these natives have, keep very fat, although it may be that this is because they do so little work, which must be the case, because the people, going naked and not providing the least trapping on which to ride (indeed, only Captain Palma was seen mounted on a very poor blanket), it follows that the bodily heat of the animals prevents the Indians from undertaking any great exertion on horseback.

Because everything pertaining to the jurisdiction of the Yumas ends at this place, and because some persons of the tribe which lives next beyond came to meet me, I asked them who lived between here and the Gulf, and how many leagues it is to the mouth of this river, and they tell me that it may be thirty or forty leagues. They say that on the other side of the river live the Quiquimas, a tribe distinct in language from the Yumas and less numerous, though they extend clear to the mouth of the river; and that on this side clear to the mouth and to the mountains near the river dwell the Cojat tribe, which is much more populous than the Yumas, and whose idiom is the same except that they speak so rapidly that they are not the most easily understood. Up to a short time ago the Yumas have been at war with both of these tribes, but now they are at peace and have become related, as they say, by means of many matertrinal marriages which they have made.

I have noted that the Yumas do not marry when very young, nor, according to what I have learned, is there much polygamy. I have seen no woman pregnant or with a child who did not appear to be twenty-five or more years old, and when I have asked the men about their late marriages they have replied that it is not profitable to marry young girls, because they do not know how to work.

Saturday, February 12 SP -- At half past eight in the morning we renewed the march down the river, leaving it a considerable distance to the left, traveling to the southwest and sometimes to the south according as the brush required it; and having gone about four and a half leagues camp was made on the bank, of a lake with much water and pasturage, to which I gave the name Santa Olaya. It is one of several lakes which the river forms when it overflows its channel. Soon after we started many people of the Cojat tribe came to meet me, asking me to pass through their villages. I declined with thanks, saying that I was very sorry to separate from them, but that if they wished to see me and did not live far from the place where I was going to camp they might assemble there as the former people had done. With this explanation they were satisfied, and a few hours later they came in hundreds, and I regaled them with glass beads and tobacco.

I made efforts to find out from this tribe, as I formerly had done among the Yumas, what form of government they had, and where their ruler lived. All replied that they lacked both of these things, for each head of a family ruled his own. Captain Palma ridiculed this want of government, saying to me that since this tribe were not so manful as his people they imitated the Spaniards in nothing.

These Cojat people, whose idiom, as has been said, differs from the Yuma in velocity, in fact are different from them in few respects. Generally speaking they are not so tall. They are somewhat darker colored, and for lack of tints are less painted. But in their lack of arms, their nakedness, the dress of their women, and other customs they are identical. They told me that the lands which they plant are as rich and fertile as those above, and that there is a greater abundance of pasturage. This tribe does not possess as many horses as the former, which is the one kind of wealth in which the Yumas surpass them.

Sunday, February 13 SP -- With some individuals of the Cojat tribe guiding us to a suitable watering place, we set out from Santa Olaya at nine in the morning, going west-northwest and at times northwest. On the road which we followed we found two pools of dirty salt water without any pasturage. Traveling until sunset, and covering only about seven leagues, because today a number of the loaded mules became tired out, camp was made at an arroyo which I called El Carrizal, the only one which was found with water fit for the animals to drink. It has an abundance of water but it is as bad as that of the foregoing places.

Salvador Palma, the captain of the Yumas, remained at the place from which we set out today. The last proof which he gave us of his love and affection is noteworthy. Having apologized to me several times for not being able to accompany me forward because we were already in the country of his enemies, when he bade me adieu he could not refrain from tears, and while the rest were telling him good-bye he wept. This action appears to me to be the strongest proof, and most praiseworthy in a heathen Indian and in a class of people amongst whom such a thing is not done even on the loss of children and relatives; for, indeed, although it is true they do make such demonstrations they are feigned and transparent. Shortly before this incident occurred he voluntarily told me that by the time I returned to his house the great flood of the river already would have arrived, but that I must not worry about crossing, for he would begin at once to assemble timbers to make rafts, and would take me over to the other side in perfect safety -- From Tubac to Arroyo del Carrizal, 161 leagues.

Monday, February 14 SP -- At nine o'clock we took up the march toward the west, guided by only two Cojat Indians, for although several had come as far as El Carrizal they turned back today, saying that they were already close to their enemies. After we had gone a short league the two guides took me down to the same arroyo whence we had set out, saying that they could not cross it for the same reason which the others gave. They added that from this watering place, where we opened wells with better water than that of the last one, and to which we gave the name of Pozos de en Medio, we could easily reach the next one, near the sierra, to which led an open road, and moreover, they pointed out to me its location. These notices were given more by signs than by any other means, signs being the language by which from here forward we shall make ourselves understood, since the Yuma tongue which we have hitherto used is now ended, and there is no other means of understanding those who follow. Because of this well and there being, according to reports, no pasturage beyond here for the animals, I decided to halt for the day here, where there is some carrizo, and also because the pack mules arrived in a most disastrous condition, notwithstanding that the day's march had been very short -- From Tubac to Pozos de en Medio, 162 leagues.

Tuesday, February 15 SP -- At seven o'clock in the morning the march was begun toward the west northwest along the trail by which the Indians said we should arrive at the watering place near the sierra, whose existence I did not doubt for the foregoing reasons and because we had seen smoke in that direction. After going a little more than a league we found a pool of very salty water. From here we went on another league through a sand dune and found another well of water very limited in quantity, but more potable than the foregoing. Having examined this we went forward by the trail mentioned, but it led us into some very dense sand dunes and we became lost entirely, because the wind moves the dunes about and carries the sand in various directions.

For this reason it was now necessary to leave half of the load at the last well mentioned, since we knew it was impossible to complete the day's march with it all, on account of the worn-out condition in which the mules arrived. On ordering that this should be done and that a sufficient guard should remain with it, I suggested to the two fathers who accompanied me that, since it was now entirely idle to think of going forward with all the packs because of the weakness of the mules, it would be best to send back half of the load and half of the soldiers, to the village of the Yumas, in view of the fine welcome which they have given us, to await us on the return; and that with the other half, less embarrassed, we should be able to effect our arrival in Northern California. I said that I would decide on this division very gladly, because it would have the best results, and that if either one of them wished he might remain, since with his presence and their respect for him it was to be supposed that neither Indians nor soldiers would be guilty of any misconduct that would disturb the tranquillity which we have experienced in our crossing of the rivers. I said also that I would make this decision in the present circumstances if I might take with me an officer in whom they had confidence.

This proposal did not meet the favor which I had expected, especially from Father Garces, who did not consider the division of the forces prudent, nor that it was so necessary as I and Father Diaz thought I therefore decided to point out to him more clearly what might otherwise happen. Nevertheless, I did not wish to insist upon my opinion because, since this father was considered experienced in these matters, if my plan should turn out ill-advised I should be held responsible and considered capricious.

All this having taken place, we again took up the march, and at half past eleven, after having crossed many sand dunes we came to another larger and higher, which it was necessary to cross in order to reach the small range where they told us the water hole was. It appeared that the range was about five leagues away, and that in the weak condition of the riding animals they would not be able to get over the sand dunes, and much less the loaded mules. Therefore, because another peak was visible toward the south and nearer, in which direction it was seen that the sand dune might be circumvented, and because Father Garces assured me that very close to it there was a large village where he had been two years before, having an abundance of water and pasturage and which he called San Jacome, I decided to go to it. So I sent orders to move forward the pack train and the riding animals which were coming behind.

Heading toward San Jacome and aiming to reach it, after sunset we found ourselves in front of the little peak which is near it, but upon reaching it and even having passed it we saw no track, trail, or other sign leading us to think that there was any habitation of people nearby, a very unusual circumstance in any class of Indians, because of their wandering nature. Being skeptical, and since some soldiers had arrived on foot because their horses were so tired out, I decided to halt while seeking the village in the direction where Father Garces had found it. He, with his companion and two soldiers, went on this errand, but they returned after nightfall without finding it. Father Garces decided to look for it again, believing that he would find it this time, since it could not be more than two leagues distant. For this purpose I furnished him the only soldiers whose horses would stand the journey. He traveled that distance and more, but after midnight he returned without finding any San Jacome in the region where he thought it to be. The fact that it was not where he had supposed is not surprising, for in lands little traveled and without prominent landmarks, like this, it is not strange that one should make a mistake, for this happens even on roads that are very much traveled.

Finding myself uncertain of a place nearby affording water and pasturage and what I needed to recuperate our animals, and since the pack train and the extras did not arrive the whole night through, I decided to return to the nearest as well as the most certain camp, for if next day another should not be found, which was doubtful, all this expedition would be exposed to entire loss, as has happened in similar circumstances.

Wednesday, February 16 SP -- At daylight I began to retrace my steps, and shortly after sunrise I met the pack train, the horses, and cattle. The corporal told me that early the night before all these animals had become tired out in the crossing of the sand dunes, and for this reason he had decided to halt a few hours to give them some rest and to continue the march at daybreak for their greater alleviation, but after all he was unable to move from the place where he had camped six saddle animals and three cattle which were completely worn-out. I ordered him to follow me, after gathering up all the worn-out stock, with which he ought to arrive at night, as he did, but with only four head, because all the rest had died.

Going at a very slow pace we arrived at two in the afternoon at the well where the half load had been left, worn-out by hunger and thirst and all the animals used up. For this reason and for other trials which were endured, the soldiers called this well Pozo de las Angustias, which indeed they all suffered. So, convinced that with this setback the expedition would be frustrated, from here I sent back our cattle to the wells called Pozos de en Medio, because they had plenty of water and some carrizo which they might eat, although not much.

Thursday, February 17 SP -- Seeing the generally disastrous condition of all of our riding animals and the impossibility of continuing the march with them, I decided to return to rest them a few days at the lake of Santa Olaya, as a place very near by and convenient, and with a view to sending for Palma, captain of the Yumas, to entrust to his care a part of the cargoes as well as the animals which would embarrass me in going forward. For, besides their leanness when they set out and the bad places on the march, they have become seriously ill from eating an herb which abounds in these parts, for lack of grass, causing them excessive slobbering of black color and evil scent.

Apropos of the foregoing setback, and of our having undertaken the march by uncertain roads and watering places, it may be remarked on little reflection that since I brought with me, as has been said at the beginning of the diary, a native of California who came out of it by the Colorado and Gila rivers, we ought to have taken his road or trail. But this plan, which would seem so proper to have followed as the surest, it was impossible to carry out because the native mentioned came out lost, through the immense sand dunes, to the villages of Captain Palma. And in these sand dunes such hardships and lack of water were suffered that his wife perished from these causes and he and a brother of his just escaped the same fate.

For this reason it had been decided to go as far as one or two marches beyond the peak toward which we were headed on the fifteenth of the month just past. For, notwithstanding the reports given us by the last Indians, who did not wish to accompany us to it, we had formerly received other reports, all of which assured us that we could reach that peak without any great inconvenience. And there is no doubt that we should have succeeded in doing so if our animals had been more serviceable and if the wall of sand dunes, for such it appeared to us, because of the worn-out condition of the horses, had not interposed.

Today, after noon, with a half load, for in this way only is it possible to reach the lake of Santa Olaya, following our own trail, we returned to the Pozos de en Medio to spend the night. As a result of starvation and illness we lost four riding animals today, and three others died yesterday afternoon. For this reason, the loss of the other horses, and because most of the soldiers had made the march on foot, I gave them a little talk in order to animate them in such a situation. They replied that in order that the purpose of the expedition might be achieved they would not flinch, even if all the horses should be lost, from making the whole journey in the same way. This good will I applauded, promising to keep them in mind to recompense them for the devotion which they were showing for the royal service in so far as it might be in my power.

Friday, February 18 SP -- At seven in the morning I sent back all the mules that were able to carry anything, to the Pozo de las Angustias, where the half load had remained, in order that they might bring it to this well and from here in the same way to the lake of Santa Olaya, for which purpose I left in charge a corporal and eight soldiers. At twelve o'clock on the same day, by the same road and trail which I had followed to these wells, I went toward the lake named with the horse herd, the cattle, and some mules loaded with the most necessary goods, in order that the stock might more quickly reach good pasturage and water, and halted with them at nightfall at a place which had no other pasturage than the leaves or some mesquite trees.

Saturday, February 19 SP -- At sunrise we set forth on the road and trail mentioned, and at half past eight reached the lake of Santa Olaya. A short time afterward a Yuma arrived. Having made him a gift I charged him to send a message from his house, whither he was bound, to the villages farther on, to tell Captain Palma to come to see me with his Pima interpreter.

Sunday, February 20 SP -- Many people assembled to see us, showing the greatest satisfaction. Among them came an under-chief of the Yumas saying that Palma, his companion and friend, was not at home, but that he had already sent messengers requesting him to come, and that meanwhile he would fill his place, and accordingly I might command him at my pleasure. Late in the afternoon there came an Indian who, near the place where we were camped, had run upon the trails of two of our mules, which we inferred must have fled from those which had remained behind, and the under-chief offered and went immediately to look for them. At eleven at night the pack train arrived with a half load, but they were so worn-out that I considered it wise to let them graze and rest all the next day.

Monday, February 21 SP -- At four in the afternoon the Yuma under-chief returned with one mule, telling me that the other had been killed by the people of the other side of the river, the Quiquimas. He said that, not being able to restore it or punish the Indian who took them and killed one, he had taken revenge on the wife of the thief by killing her with an arrow. He showed me the arrow and even wished me to take it in my hands. This deed was repugnant to me, and I disapproved it as its barbarity deserved, but as soon as I turned my back he said very serenely that one life was of little consequence, and that as for the one which he took, he was only sorry that I did not approve it. From this incident may be inferred the little weight and scruple attached by these unhappy people to killing one another. And thus it is seen that in a small space of country most of them are at war, without any self-interest or any grave cause. For this reason I exhorted all of those present, urging peace with one tribe and another, and told them with some severity that I should be angry with anyone who should make war or kill after I had ordered in the name of God and the king that all kinds of war should cease. To this they replied that they would not fail in the future.

Tuesday, February 22 SP -- At five in the afternoon I dispatched the pack train to go and bring the half load which was lacking.

Wednesday, February 23 SP -- At ten o'clock at night the pack train arrived with the half load which had remained behind.

Thursday, February 24 SP -- Everybody was allowed to rest. Early in the afternoon Palma, the captain of the Yumas arrived. He showed inexpressible joy at seeing me, signifying deep sorrow for my troubles, and because he did not know the roads by which I wished to go forward so that he might tell me about them. But the thing for which he showed the most grief was the death of the riding animals, thinking that in them we had lost our greatest wealth and treasure.

The same afternoon Father Garces decided voluntarily to go to visit the nearby villages which are downstream from here, in which he says he was two years ago, hoping to acquire in them helpful notices concerning our route. I charged him to return within four or five days, this being as long as we could wait before continuing our march.

Night having fallen, I began to sound out this captain of the Yumas to see if he gave any cause for withholding from him the confidence which I felt. Not finding in him any ground for mistrust, I told him of my intention to leave part of the loads and of my men in his care, because I was unable, for the reasons already set forth, to take them forward, and so that they might await me at his house till I should return in a little more than a month. I told him that on hearing that I was coming and that I was returning with most of the soldiers, or if others should come to his house from the direction from which I had come, as might happen, because of my delay in getting back home, he must give them news of me and tell them to await me at his house. To this he replied that he was agreed; and he promised to take good care of everything just as he had done by Father Garces when he came alone, and by the native of California when he came out at his village last year, personally conducting him to the presidio of Altar; and that in order that the mules might reach his house he would transport the cargo on the backs of his men. It cost me no small effort to persuade him to forego this labor, as well as to convince him of the reasons which I had for trusting his good heart and good conduct, without any misgivings whatsoever.

In order to get more complete assent, I communicated the foregoing to all the men of the expedition who were present, and in one voice they told me that they embraced the plan as the only one that would make possible the necessary efforts to carry out the desired enterprise. This, they said, being a matter of the service of God and the king and of the honor of everybody taking part in it, ought to prevail over everything else, even though the risk of losing all that we might wish to leave behind should be patent; but this ought not to be expected in dealing with an Indian who so manifestly respected and loved us, of which there was an excess of evidence, including his care of our dependents, as already related, and the communication and commerce which he had maintained for many years past with our towns and those of the Papagos and Pimas, who are subordinate to us. And since these lived near and came to the Yumas frequently, it would not be easy for the latter to attempt any outrage, for even if the Pimas could not restrain them, the Yumas, on the other hand, could not prevent them from reporting to our people, whom the heathen fear so much. And finally, there was nothing else to do. Therefore, they again repeated their pledge, in order that the expedition might be carried out, and promised their best efforts whatever might happen, saying that in case the horses should all be lost or wornout, they would undertake the march on foot until they achieved their goal. But they felt sure that this loss or wearing out of the mules would not happen, because now they would be reinforced and relieved by not having to drive mules or herd the cattle, and that on the few mules left in fair condition small packs could be carried with supplies for a month, and we must come out by that time at the latest to some of the new establishments of northern California. This general opinion I promised to accept, whereupon we all were satisfied.

February 25 - 28 SP -- The time from Friday the 25th to Monday the 28th was devoted to rest. No disturbance occurred nor was there any sign of any among the hundreds of Yumas, Cojats, and Quiquimas who assembled to see us, with such confidence that he was very conspicuous who carried a weak bow and arrow to hunt animals. They stayed with us in these numbers days and night, not requesting anything except that we should play for them a violin which the soldiers brought for their diversion. They became so extremely attached to it that they gave up their own pastimes, and in their stead learned the customs of our men, particularly the women, who constantly wished to be dancing the seguidillas which the soldiers taught them, and in whose steps they became proficient. They also learned to salute us, both sexes, each time they saw us, by saying " Ave Maria, viva Dios y el Rey." They learned these praises without much difficulty because of their facility, which I have mentioned before, in pronouncing the Castilian language, and because of a few beads and a little tobacco.