Diary of Juan Bautista de Anza
Exploratory Expedition, 1774
Tuesday, March 1 SP, was spent in the same way as the preceding days, and awaiting Father Garc's, who returned without bringing any news favorable to our journey.
Wednesday, March 2 SP -- As was agreed on the 24th of last month, I left in charge of Captain Palma, in order that he might conduct it to his house, the greater part of our cargo, with the necessary mules for carrying it. There are remaining likewise the extra cattle and saddle animals which are unable to go forward, three trustworthy soldiers of good conduct and tolerance. three muleteers, and one of my servants, all admonished to comport themselves with the greatest harmony amongst these tribes, and with various instructions for whatever adverse event may happen; likewise two Pima natives under pay, in order that they may be at the orders of the foregoing, so that through them they may be understood by the Yumas.
By two in the afternoon the division had been made, and at that time I set out on the march with the rest of the troop, the best horses, and ten mules of the same quality, with supplies for a month. I went west-southwest along the meadow down the Colorado River, having on our left many beautiful groves of willows and cottonwoods which grow along the branches that overflow this large volumed river at the time of its highest flood. This afternoon I have passed through many villages of the Cojat tribe, being obliged to do so by the reports which I have had that by going down the river a little further it will be easier for me to reach the sierra which I formerly attempted. At nightfall, after having traveled about four leagues, we camped in a good field of maize and bean stubble, very close to several villages of the tribe named. For this reason many persons came to see me, and I exhorted them to maintain perpetual peace with the Yumas. This place was named Laguna del Predicador -- From Tubac to the Laguna del Predicador, on the Colorado River, 166 leagues.
Thursday, March 3 SP -- At half past seven we set out on the march, continuing along the same meadow to the west-southwest, and having traveled about three leagues we camped at another lake like the preceding one, in order to acquire more exact information concerning the road which I wished to open from here to the sierra, to which two members of this Cojat tribe offered to guide me. They proposed to me that I should set out tomorrow afternoon, in order more easily to make the journey, which they have always told me is very long for a bad season like the present. We agreed to this plan, and I remained today in this place.
Farther back I have said that this tribe spoke a language different from that of the Yumas, because the latter had told me so, but having today seen them communicate with each other, I have no hesitation in saying that their language is the same, and that there will be the same difference from the nearby Quiquima language. Neither is there any doubt that the lands from the lake of Santa Olaya downstream are better than those preceding, with more pasturage, more crops, and more people. All this proves that this tribe is larger than the Yumas, as has been said -- From Tubac to another lake on the same river, 169 leagues.
Friday, March 4 SP -- At one in the afternoon we took up the march to the west-northwest, guided by one of the two Indians who promised to lead us to the sierra. Having traveled six or seven leagues he proposed that camp be made for the night, with the certainty that tomorrow at midday we should arrive at the watering place. He affirmed this three times and we therefore decided to camp here for the night, although there was no pasturage for the riding animals.
Saturday, March 5 SP -- Starting shortly before daybreak, we went west-northwest for about six leagues, having on our left a medium-sized range, toward which we traveled three more leagues to the northwest. Then we went between some medium-sized hills which make a good pass, after which one turns to the west to go around some sand dunes near them. In this direction one travels a little less than two leagues, during which the sand dune is doubled. After this one turns again to the north-northwest for about a league and a half, coming to some wells of fair surface water, and some pasturage. We reached the edge of the wells about vespers, and I named them San Eusebio. The journey made to this place in the manner described did not turn out so favorable to us as we had flattered ourselves it would, because of the prevarication of the guide.
On doubling the sand dune mentioned one comes out to an estuary of the sea. At least we inferred that it must be an estuary, because we found stranded an infinite number of fish of kind and size appropriate to the sea and not to lakes and rivers, however large they may be. Whether or not this lake is of live water I am not able to say with certainty, but I do know that it is water depending upon the Gulf, from which it must be distant about thirty leagues, if not more. This estuary is the one which appeared to Father Garc's two years ago to be the Rio Amarillo which he mentions or cites in his diaries, because it did not occur to him to test what it really was, for he did not taste the water.
Within a few hours during the night such good water as flowed from the wells was completely exhausted, the new which came in being so salty that not even the animals could drink it, although more than half of them, which had not yet been watered, were greatly in need of it. All this trouble and care was added to the hard journey which we had made today -- From Tubac to San Eusebio, 188 leagues.
Sunday March 6 SP -- To add to our ills, in the morning we learned that our guide had fled, leaving us his poor weapons as signs at the place where he had slept. For this reason, and for the lack of water which we were suffering, I sent six men with a corporal to look for the watering place which our runaway guide had said was nearby. The corporal bore appropriate instructions in case he should find heathen there or in any other place and to report to me whether or not he had found the water.
At two in the afternoon I set forth with all our train toward the west-northwest over the trail of the six explorers. When I had gone about three leagues two soldiers met me and reported for the corporal that they had found a good watering place in the middle of the sierra and near it a heathen Indian boy.
Guided by these two soldiers we arrived at nightfall at the place where the water was, distant from the preceding one a little more than four leagues. Immediately the corporal, who was here, told me that soon after he had seized the Indian boy mentioned an older Indian came down with great timidity and gave him to understand that the boy was his son, and that he should be given up to him. To this the corporal replied that they must not run away, because he would do them no harm, but in spite of this they insisted on leaving, which they were permitted to do after they had been regaled, in keeping with my orders, for I have always impressed upon the minds of all the soldiers with me that they must not use force upon any heathen, even in minor matters, except in cases of extreme necessity, in order that we may not acquire a bad name at first sight.
This watering place I gave the name of Santo Thom's. Besides five small springs of bitter water which are here, there is one of very sweet and clear water, and there is also some grass but of bad quality. It is situated in a sierra which we infer must be one of those which form the California chain -- From Tubac to Santo Thomas, 192 leagues.
Monday, March 7 SP -- In order better to look for a watering place which we hoped to find farther on, in the morning I sent the same exploring party with the orders appropriate for this purpose, and others which were of importance to our expedition. Raising our train, at two in the afternoon I set forth to the northeast for half a league, on the trail of our explorers, and having traveled three and a half leagues we saw the party halted, which we thought was a favorable indication. At sunset we reached the party, and the corporal told me that, having discovered six heathen in the same place, he took them so by surprise that they were not able to escape. He asked them for water, making signs that he was suffering from lack of it, and they gave him part of what they were carrying for themselves, telling him that close by there was an abundance of it in wells, which they showed him after which they begged of him as a reward that he should let them go free, because when they saw the approach of more people whom they had never seen before they became terrified. Therefore he granted their request after he had given them presents. Right here I halted for the night because there was an abundance of pasturage, since there was certain water for the next day.
Tuesday, March 8 SP -- At seven o'clock in the morning we took up the march over good country towards the northeast, and having gone about a league and a quarter we reached the wells mentioned, and when they were opened they poured forth an abundance of the finest water. We called them Santa Rosa de las Lajas. Because there was some pasturage in this place and our riding animals had become badly worn out I decided to stop here for the day.
These wells are in such a location that in two convenient journeys we might have come to them from the Laguna de Santa Olaya. Indeed, the two places cannot be more than eighteen leagues apart, but traveling through unknown country inevitably involves these detours. Notwithstanding the one which we have made, we celebrated our arrival at this place, because from it the California Indian has recognized that he is now near a place where he formerly was, and therefore we now promise ourselves that our expedition will not fail -- From Tubac to Santa Rosa de las Lajas, 197 leagues.
Wednesday, March 9 SP -- At half past two in the afternoon we took up the march toward the north over good terrain, and having traveled about four leagues in this direction we halted to pass the night in a place where there was some pasturage.
Thursday, March 10 SP -- At daybreak we took the same direction, toward the north, and at seven o'clock we began to cross some little points of sand dunes which extend for about half a league. At the beginning of them most of the soldiers dismounted, agreeing among themselves to make most of the following journeys on foot, in order that they might not lack mounts on which to carry their saddles and other necessary things. Having traveled seven leagues, at one o'clock in the afternoon we reached the watering place. I named it San Sebastien, alias del Peregrino, because the already mentioned native of California had come out through here -- From Tubac to the Cienega de San Sebastien, 208 leagues.
This place is a very large marsh with many waters and much pasturage, but both are very salty, except one spring where we are, which is fair-sized and running. Here we found a small village of mountain Indians, who took flight, abandoning all their little possessions, which I did not permit anyone to touch. I had the native of California, our guide from here forward, go to overtake someone. He went after them and brought a woman to my presence, and I gave her beads and tobacco, telling her that she should call her friends, with assurance that no harm would be done them and that it would be good for them to accept our gifts. She did so, and at three o'clock in the afternoon seven men came, although with much perturbation, and I gave them the usual presents. Among them was the chief of this village, which the native Californian says consists of more than four hundred persons when they are all together, as he observed when he made his journey through this place where he was given good hospitality by the ruler mentioned, whom we shall call "Captain," and who celebrated seeing the Californian with special demonstration.
After nightfall many more of these heathen assembled, and I made them embrace two Yumas who voluntarily have come with me. They have been continually at war, but I gave them to understand that war was ceasing from this day, as the nations farther back had been informed. This news caused them great rejoicing, and they celebrated it by breaking the few arrows which they were carrying. At the same time they promised that they would comply with my precept, never more going to the Colorado River for war, but only to visit, since now the two Yumas were their friends. Before this, however, they informed me by signs, that solely on seeing tracks of the Yumas they were going to cut off their heads, although they were in our company. They were now so completely relieved of their terror that this night they camped with their rivals, and regaled each other with such miserable possessions as these people customarily have.
These mountain Indians are called by those of the Colorado River Jahueches and also Caguenches and Ajagueches. They say that they are as numerous as the Yumas. They live ordinarily in the mountains, subsisting on the mescal which abounds, and on seeds, supplemented by some deer hunting. They have no crops and no opportunity to plant them, for lack of water and lands. They are a naked people. They are of ordinary height, like those farther back, but less robust. With regard to the rest of their bodies they are like the people of the Colorado River. They are superior to these in the greater abundance of bows and arrows, although of the worst kind and construction, whereby they are seen to be equal. In spirit they appear to be more cowardly than the Yumas. They possess no horses,Êand they are so afraid of the Yumas that they are terrified even when they hear a horse whinny. They wear their hair short without adornment. In color they are very black and their features are very ugly.
Their language is related somewhat to the Yuma tongue; indeed, I noticed that they understand each other to some extent, although the language of these people of whom I am speaking is very rapid and extremely explosive. Their settlements extend from the mountains which begin at the place where the Colorado River empties into the Gulf of California and run from south to north beyond the place where we are. Their women wear, to cover themselves from the waist down, a skirt like that of the Yumas, with the difference that those which these wear are of thread, which they get from the leaves of mescal, like that which is called in the kingdom de arria. They have the ugliness which is usual with all the rest of the Indians.
Friday, March 11 SP -- At three in the afternoon we took up the march to the west, but because we had to cross some large marshes we lost much time, and it was not possible to advance more than a league and a half by nightfall, so we made camp in the neighborhood of this marsh of San Sevastien, with no pasturage except the leaves of some mesquite trees. The pasturage of this marsh did so much damage to our weak saddle animals that two of them died on our hands from the purging which it caused them.
At the place where we spent the night there were five families of the tribe named. In reply to various questions which I asked them they told me that the sea must be distant three days' journey, and from the direction in which they pointed we inferred that it was the Philippine ocean. They also gave me to understand that in a five or six days' journey some relatives of theirs who lived near them came to some people like ourselves. We were convinced that they must be those who live at the port of San Diego.
Saturday, March 12 SP -- An hour before dawn we set forth west-northwest, toward a large valley formed by another sierra and the one which we have had on our left since leaving Santo Thom's. Having traveled over good terrain about six leagues, we arrived at a little water which was running slightly and of good quality, with better pasturage than any which has been seen since we left the Pimeria. This place I named San Gregorio. From Tubac to San Gregorio, 215 leagues.
When we arrived here we discovered more than sixty heathen who were hunting. I made an effort to have some of them come to where we were encamped, sending the Californian to bring them, but just as he arrived with them near to where I was, our pack mules and relay saddle animals also arrived. Scenting the water they began to bray according to their custom, whereupon our much sought heathen made precipitate flight. While among them the California Indian observed that they spoke the language of San Diego. Our animals reached this place in the most deplorable state that can be imagined, because of the bad pasturage of San Sevastien, as has been said, and for this reason I decided not to travel tomorrow.
Sunday, March 13 SP -- We rested.
Monday, March 14 SP -- A little before daybreak we set forth toward the north, and having traveled about six leagues through various valleys with reasonable footing, we arrived at a spring or fountain of the finest water, which runs for about two leagues, having many willows most of the way. At its head we halted for the night, and to the place I gave the name of Santa Catharina. Here was found much grass and other green plants, as well as wild vines and trees, which announce to us an improvement in the country from here forward. ÐFrom Tubac to Santa Catarina, 221 leagues.
By means of the efforts which I have customarily made to communicate with the heathen whom I have encountered and to relieve them of the fear which they have for us. I was able to attract some of those who lived in this place but had abandoned it. I gave them the customary presents of glass beads and tobacco, which they reciprocated by corroborating the reports given us by those in the neighborhood of San Sevastien.
What tribe this may be I cannot say with certainty. Among them, says the California Indian, there are some who speak the languages of the missions of San Diego and San Gabriel. At any rate, whoever they may be they are very different from those farther back, for in stature and condition they are very degenerate, and are much more cowardly, and without arms. Amongst all those seen today, who must have been more than a hundred, only one was seen with an arrow, but even he had no bow. Each one carried a crooked stick something like a sickle, which serves them to hunt hares and rabbits. They throw it from a long distance, and I am informed by the soldiers who saw them hunt, that not one of these animals at which the heathen threw these sticks was missed. These poor people remained with us until they heard a horse whinny, after which they stayed until after nightfall on the hills a long distance from our camp. In this place of Santa Catharina, judging from the humidity, in the land here some seasonal crops might be planted.
Tuesday, March 15 SP -- Two hours before daybreak we set forth up the arroyo, which in general runs north-northwest, dividing the large mountain chain through which it flows. The floor of the valley is very even and of considerable width for four leagues, where in various places running water is found. Two more leagues were traveled where the valley is narrower, and then, leaving it at the left, we climbed a ridge which did not cause the animals the greatest fatigue, and at whose crest we camped for the night in a place with good pasturage and water -- From Tubac to the Puerto Real de San Carlos, 227 leagues.
Right here there is a pass which I named the Royal Pass of San Carlos. From it are seen most beautiful green and flower-strewn prairies, and snow-covered mountains with pines, oaks, and other trees which grow in cold countries. Likewise here the waters divide, some flowing this way toward the Gulf and others toward the Philippine Ocean. Moreover, it is now proved that the sierra in which we are traveling connects with the sierras of Lower California. In the course of the journey made today we have seen an improvement in the country in every way, and have concluded from its moisture that it may be suitable for seasonal crops and the planting of fruit trees, and that there are pastures sufficient for maintaining cattle.
In the same transit we met more than two hundred heathen, extremely timid, and similar in everything to those farther back except in their language, which we did not recognize. It was laughable to see them when they approached us, because before doing so they delivered a very long harangue in a tone as excited as were the movements of their feet and hands. For this reason they were called the Dancers. The few weapons which they are not carried by the men themselves but by their women and children. The only thing of value which they were seen to have was a small net wound around the stomach or the head. They wear sandals made of mescal fiber, like all those from San Sevastien to here. The women cover themselves with the same fiber, or some of them use buckskin. Of all the tribes through which we have passed this is the one which has manifested the strongest desire to steal, at which they show as great dexterity with their feet as with their hands. For this reason they have not enjoyed our little gifts as have the others.
Wednesday, March 16 SP -- Because it rained and snowed, like the night before, we were not able to take up the march during the forenoon. But at two in the afternoon we set forth, immediately climbing some small hills, where a fair-sized vein of silver ore was found. From these hills we continued west for a distance of three leagues over good terrain, halting for the night, because it threatened to rain, on the banks of a large and pretty lake, to which we gave the name of El Principe. It is surrounded by flower-strewn and pleasant valleys and by several snow-covered mountains, by which it is filled with water. In the hills nearby were found several springs of very agreeable water, independent of the lake -- From Tubac to the Laguna del Principe, 230 leagues.
Thursday, March 17 SP -- Because it had rained and snowed during the night and part of this morning, we were not able to set forth until ten o'clock in the forenoon. We then started, marching northwest and north-northwest, through the valley which lies between two ranges. We followed it until it narrowed between several other hills, at the foot of which we halted for the night, having traveled three leagues. From these hills there is seen a very pretty little valley which within itself contains water and trees in abundance. We called it San Patricio.
In these hills another good vein of silver ore was found, and from it was taken a piece which shows this metal black and thick. We think that the same kind will not be lacking in all the hills between the Royal Pass of San Carlos and this place, for they seem to give indications of it -- From Tubac to the valley of San Patricio, 233 leagues.
Friday, March 18 SP -- Although morning dawned with very thick clouds, we thought because it had snowed and rained so hard during the night that we should free ourselves of these elements today. With this in mind, as soon as day dawned I sent a party of six men provided with axes, to clear out, if it was necessary, the road which we must follow down the canyon which we have close by. At eight o'clock in the morning, raising our train, we all set forth on the road, which we found favorable, for only for a league was it necessary to cut here and there a tree which impeded. After this the canyon, which we followed to the north and north-northwest, kept getting wider and wider, until we reached a broad and most beautiful valley, six leagues distant from the place whence we had set out.
Through this beautiful valley, to which we gave the name of San Jose, runs a good-sized river, on whose banks are large, shady groves. Likewise in the mountains where the river forms there are seen pines, oaks, and various other trees. All its plain is full of flowers, fertile pastures, and other vegetation, useful for the raising of cattle, of which species as many as one might wish could be raised. And in the same way one could raise good crops, which I judge would be produced with great advantage, for although this is the cold season, from the verdure and the shadiness of the leaves there is no sign of any frost here, either now or earlier. In this place where we are today we saw some heathen women, but they did not wish to come near us, although they were coaxed in the same way that has been practiced at other times -- From Tubac to the valley of San Jose, 239 leagues.
Saturday, March 19 SP -- At eight o'clock in the morning we took up the march down the valley toward the northwest. Its amenity and the beauty of its trees continued for three leagues, after which the trees came to an end but the amenity continued. We followed it for three more leagues, till we came to the banks of a large and pleasing lake, several leagues in circumference and as full of white geese as of water, they being so numerous that it looked like a large, white grove. I called this lake San Antonio de Bucareli. Today several heathen came to us here and along the road which we traveled, talking with us now with greater freedom than those farther back, but as soon as they were given presents they left us. There is nothing particularly noteworthy about them, for in everything they are similar to those last seen. In the crossing of the sierra I have not seen very many of them, but it is evident from their tracks and their dwellings that it is thickly inhabited by them -- From Tubac to the Laguna de San Antonio de Bucareli, 245 leagues.
Sunday, March 20 SP -- At half past eight in the morning we set forth, going northwest for five leagues, keeping on our right a high, snow covered mountain, which drains into the lake mentioned. Having gone two more leagues to the west-northwest, we came to a valley similar to that of San Jose, which likewise has a good river, to which was given the name of Santa Anna. At the end of these two leagues another half league was traveled in seeking a ford, but not having found one or having any hope of finding one. I camped for the night near a place where there was a village of heathen like those mentioned before, and whose number would be more than sixty persons.
At four in the afternoon, when we halted, we began to make a little bridge, as a means of taking over our train, and by nightfall it was completed. The heathen mentioned came to our camp tonight, some of them asking our native Californian, in the idiom of San Gabriel, if we came from the port of San Diego. They marveled greatly when they were answered in the negative, and were told that we were from the east, whence we had been traveling for three moons, and where there were more soldiers than they had ever heard of -- From Tubac to Santa Ana River, 253 leagues.
Monday, March 21 SP -- Having taken over our train by the little bridge, at half past eight in the morning we set forth west-northwest, over good country covered with pasturage, the Sierra Nevada continuing on our right. After going about seven leagues we halted for the night at a fertile arroyo which came from this sierra, and was thickly grown with cottonwoods, willows and sycamores. It was given the name of Los Osos, because of several bear which were seen here and then ran away. -- From Tubac to the Arroyo de Osos, 260 leagues.
Tuesday, March 22 SP -- At seven o'clock today we continued our march and went three leagues northwest over country like the foregoing. Then we traveled five more to the west-northwest and also to the west, in order to free ourselves from many places miry with water that comes from the sierra on our right which we have mentioned. Having covered this distance we crossed the river that runs close to the mission of San Gabriel, where I arrived at sunset and announced myself to the corporal of the guard of this new establishment. ÐFrom Tubac to the mission of San Gabriel in Northern California, 268 leagues.
We found here four friars, its missionaries, from the College of San Fernando de Mexico, who welcomed us with unrestrained jubilation and demonstrations of joy, with solemn peal of bells and chanting of the Te Deum, in thanksgiving for our successful arrival. This was all the more pleasing to them because it was so unexpected, for they had not had any news, except very remote, of this expedition, which they had considered impracticable even for a hundred men. Even though the friars and the soldiers saw us, they could hardly believe that people could have come from Sonora, and they kept repeatedly asking me if it were true, tears springing to their eyes, caused by the joy and pleasure at seeing this expedition accomplished, and at knowing how close at hand Sonora was and how easy the transit from it.
I asked the friars if Don Fernando de Rivera y Moncada, the new commander of Monterey, was at this place. They replied that the only news they had regarding the matter was that he had been named for this post, a report brought only three days before from the commander of his Majesty's frigate, the Nueva Galicia, which had just arrived at the mission and port of San Diego.
Wednesday, March 23 SP -- As a further set of thanksgiving to the Omnipotent God for the favor which He had deigned to show the arms of his Majesty in this expedition, these friars chanted a solemn Mass, and preached a sermon in which with propriety the piety of the king our master was applauded because he desires to extend the Catholic religion amongst the heathen of these regions; and likewise the piety with which the most excellent viceroy has cooperated to the same effect by deciding upon this enterprise, from which no doubt will result glory for both majesties.
The father who is occupying the position of superior has had the grace to offer me his person and whatever there is in his charge at this mission, notwithstanding the fact that with respect to provisions these missions are in such straits, because of the already mentioned misfortunes suffered by the vessels which sustain them; that the missionaries and the soldiers of the guard have no other daily ration than three tortillas of maize and the herbs of the fields which each one seeks for himself; and that this ration would last for less than a month. Yet he offered it to me to remedy this same necessity in which I arrived at this place, until I might supply myself with such provisions as I might send to ask for at San Diego, because of the arrival of the frigate with a cargo of provisions, likewise offering me the few animals which he has at his disposition to enable me to get them. For this offer and the foregoing I gave the appropriate thanks to the father superior, and requested him, since we are compelled to take advantage of it, that he arrange to maintain us with this ration, to which we are reduced for all these days.
Because of this lack of provisions, and since the presidio of Monte Rey is still a hundred and twenty leagues away, we agreed, the two fathers and I, to send to ask for the necessary provisions at the port of San Diego, and also for some riding animals, so that if we obtained the one and the other we could continue our journey with all of our expedition to the presidio of Monte Rey, and from there go back by a direct route to one of the places from which we have come, to find out at once if it is possible to open a direct route from the presidio to the province of Sonora.
Since the captain of engineers, Don Miguel Constanzo, and the captain of dragoons, Don Gaspar de Portola, have already traveled the road which goes from here to Monte Rey, I omit writing in detail concerning its settlements and the tribes which inhabit them, assuming that his Excellency will be already informed by those officials, and will set down only whatever occurs that is new and appears to me worthy of being noted.
Thursday, March 24 SP -- We rested.
Friday, March 25 SP -- Pursuant to the agreement made on the 23d, I sent four soldiers with seven mules to the port of San Diego, and for the purpose mentioned on that day I wrote to the commander of the frigate which is anchored there, and to the captain of the same port.
Saturday, March 26 SP -- From Saturday the 26th to Thursday the 31st we remained in this mission, without any other happening than the continuation of the rains, whose season ends this month or the next.