Diary of Juan Bautista de Anza
Exploratory Expedition, 1774
Sunday, May 1 SP -- I again reached the mission of San Gabriel -- From Monte Rey to the mission of San Gabriel, 120 leagues.
Notwithstanding the fact that right here I rely on the reports which may have been given of the condition of the country from here to Monte Rey by Captains Don Gaspar de Portola and Don Miguel Constanzo, it has seemed proper for me to add a note on the present condition of these new establishments, subsequent to the departure of those officials, on the basis of what I have seen and have been told.
Among the heathen tribes there is no disturbance to alter the opinion which has been formed of their gentleness and docility, of which every day they give greater proofs, offering their children for baptism and some of them accepting it themselves. This boon has not been completely possible to them, because provisions have been so scarce that the missionaries have not had the wherewith to support them without living apart from them, which ought to cease as soon as they acquire the character of Christians. But here and at Carmelo there are more than five hundred who are now Christians, and I know that their missionaries maintain them with only a pint and a half of atole mixed with water, on which they live for the whole twenty-four hours.
The same fathers have told me that even if atole alone had been plentiful, they could have doubled or tripled the harvest, but that for this lack of it they have made their living outside of the missions. But they have hopes that in the future their labor will produce greater harvests, because this year there is promise of fair-sized crops of wheat, which have failed up to now, more through the lack of seed than because of the sterility of the soil. The fields of this crop which I have seen yield very abundantly, for with respect to rankness of growth, size of head and thickness of stalk I have not seen any so good in the provinces of Sonora. And the same is likewise true of barley, peas, beans, and other vegetables. The barley, they say, depreciates greatly at the time of maturity, because of the continuous fogs, especially at Carmelo and Monte Rey, but this mission of San Gabriel is exempted from this drawback, for here all crops which they have planted with care have yielded well. And the missions below here without exception have good fields of this crop.
Monday, May 2 SP -- After having dispatched his companion, Father Garces, and our troops, to the Colorado River on the 13th of last month, the Reverend Father Fray Juan Diaz, deciding himself to await me at this mission, by means of the astrolabe which he was able to obtain at the mission of San Diego, to which he took the trouble to go to be instructed, made an observation of the latitude and computed it as 33¼ 52'.
Tuesday, May 3 SP -- At two in the afternoon I set out from the mission of San Gabriel toward the east and east-southeast, straightening as much as I could the road which I followed when coming, an effort which will be made to save as many leagues as possible; and having traveled this afternoon five leagues we halted for the night at a creek which was named Arroyo de los Alisos. It is the first one running to the neighborhood of San Gabriel from the Sierra Nevada which we noted when we first came to that mission -- From Monte Rey to the Arroyo de los Alisos, 125 leagues.
Wednesday, May 4 SP -- Going east I marched five leagues and crossed the Santa Ana River, beyond which five more leagues were traveled to the neighborhood of the Lake of San Antonio de Bucareli. To the north of this lake in the snow-covered range there is seen a good opening, which I consider the most suitable one by which to go directly to the mission of San Luis or the presidio of Monte Rey, when coming from Sonora. In this connection I may say that at the first place just mentioned I saw with great distinctness the same snow-covered range, and there is no other with which to confuse it -- From Monte Rey to the Laguna de San Antonio Bucareli, 135 leagues.
Thursday, May 5 SP -- Going generally to the east and east-southeast, four leagues were traveled, as far as the beautiful valley of San Jose, whose latitude was observed and proved to be 33¼ 46 1/2'. After making this observation we continued our march in the same direction for five leagues, until we reached the site of San Patricio. From Monte Rey to the valley of San Patricio, 144 leagues.
Friday, May 6 SP -- We set out from San Patricio, and having traveled east-southeast about eight leagues, we halted for the night at the site of Santa Catharina. We observed the latitude of the Royal Pass of San Carlos and found it to be 33¼ 42'. As we were going along today near some hills, some arrows were surreptitiously shot at the saddle animals which were being driven behind, three of them being slightly wounded. Efforts were made to ascertain who shot the arrows, and it was found that it was four heathen. The chief culprit was given a beating, and told that he deserved to be put to death for what he had done, but that because of our natural compassion we were sparing him. When I arrived at this place of Santa Catharina I learned by a note left me by Father Garces, who is going ahead, that the same thing happened to him.
This occurrence apparently was due to the presence among these heathen of some Indians from the neighborhood of San Diego, who were recognized by the men who come from Monte Rey. They tell me that they have always had this habit, and so I infer that this is why the thing happened, for when we came through the first time we saw more than two hundred, but there was no other trouble than the inclination which they manifested for stealing a few of our belongings -- From Monte Rey to Santa Catharina, 152 leagues.
Saturday, May 7 SP -- With no other incident than the one related, we left this place, going generally toward the southeast, till we reached San Gregorio, where we turned to the east-southeast; then, going in this direction, at the end of ten or eleven leagues we arrived at the marsh of San Sevastian -- From Monte Rey to the Sinega de San Sevastian, 163 leagues.
Sunday, May 8 SP -- Shortly after sunrise we set forth on the trail of the troops who are going ahead, with the hope of finding some watering place between this marsh and the lake of Santa Olaya. We traveled as much as possible to the east-southeast, but also to the south, in order to go around the sand dunes which stretch across. I kept in this direction and on the trail mentioned for only seven leagues, after which I took a higher latitude than the one followed by the troops. In this direction I traveled ten more leagues, to the Pozo de las Angustias, where I arrived after nightfall. Then, the men having refreshed themselves, because there was no pasturage in the vicinity we continued our journey for five more leagues to the east-southeast.
Monday, May 9 SP -- Having covered the distance stated we arrived well toward morning at this lake of Santa Olaya. The march just described is the longest in all the new road which has been discovered. But by making it from the wells of El Carrizal to those of Santa Rosa de las Lajas, with all convenience, and going from these by another march to the marsh of San Sevastian, in this way any pack train can accomplish it without very great trouble. The latitude of this lake was observed and found to be in 32¼ 34' -- From Monte Rey to the Laguna de Santa Olaya on the Colorado River, 185 leagues.
This afternoon we proceeded up the meadows of the Colorado River, going generally to the east, and having traveled about four leagues we camped in the territory of the Yumas. The joy with which they welcomed us was a matter for admiration, for they all incessantly kept crying "Capiton," "Seyor," "Soldados," "Companeros," and in this mood the many who assembled remained till morning. During the night they reported to me, with extraordinary regret on their part, that the soldiers whom I left to the care of Captain Palma had departed, contrary to the advice of the Captain himself and of many others, solely on account of the vague report which had come from the sierra to the effect that the heathen there had killed me and all the soldiers. They told me also that these soldiers had left in charge of Palma some provisions, which he had kept in his own house until the arrival of Father Garces, who was there now awaiting me, but that there was no other occurrence.
Tuesday, May 10 SP -- Traveling east-northeast and east for eight leagues, I arrived at noon at the junction of the rivers and the site of San Dionicio. Shortly afterward Captain Palma arrived, rejoicing like all his tribe, many hundreds of whom I already had at my side. Treating me with as much assurance as if I were his own kind, he manifested his contentment at my return, and his great regret for the departure of the soldiers whom I had left in his care until the return of Father Garces, to whom he told me he had delivered some packs of provisions and some cattle. He said that those who departed had gone without his approval. For all this and the fidelity which he has shown in this affair, I gave to this heathen captain the thanks and the praise which he merits.
At three in the afternoon of this same day the captain had ready for me a strong raft so that I might cross both rivers, accompanied by the hundreds of people, in order that they might guide it, and with whom I felt as secure as if they were my own people. The captain himself carried me and put me on the raft, together with Father Juan Diaz and a servant of mine. On it I crossed the rivers, whose waters must be six hundred yards wide, but I had such confidence that in all my life I have never crossed a river with greater assurance, since even though the craft had been wrecked I had close at hand more than five hundred persons ready to rescue me. The same security was felt by all those who accompanied me, and who were taken over by the Indians with all of our baggage this same afternoon.
At five in the afternoon I arrived at the camp, where I was awaited by Father Garces and the soldiers who had come ahead, and who corroborated the reports just related, saying that nothing else had occurred in their journey worthy of note -- From Monte Rey to the junction of the Gila and Colorado rivers, 197 leagues.
Wednesday, May 11 SP -- The latitude of this place, which is close to San Dionicio, was observed and found to be in 32¼ 44'. This does not agree with the observation made by the first discoverer, Father Francisco Eusevio Quino, as is related in the book of the Afanes Apostolicos on folio 288, where it states that he found it to be in 35¼ 30'. This day was dedicated to rest for all. Since we have returned to the Colorado River from a much greater distance beyond it than any of our predecessors who have journeyed to it even thought of going, it will not be beside the point to say that we have tried to learn from these heathen and others, wherever we have gone, in what direction the famous Sierra Azul is situated, and the Laguna de Azogue, which is noted by Lieutenant Don Matheo Mange, companion of this Father Quino, in a book which he dedicated to the most excellent Viceroy, Duke of Alburquerque, or the Rio Amarillo on the other side of the Colorado, but, even taking their existence for granted, we have not discovered any ground for concluding that these tales can be verified.
Thursday, May 12 SP -- We still remained here, and since the Reverend Father Garces had told me that by the courier who goes directly to his Excellency he had requested the governor of the provinces to send some provisions to this place, thinking that with those which we have left we should not have sufficient to go out to my presidio, I, knowing differently, decided to send today two soldiers to take back any provisions which they might be bringing, because I am not able to take the road by which they ought to come. This afternoon I had the party which came from Monte Rey recross the Colorado River, in order that they might return to that post, with knowledge of the directions and the routes through which run the roads from there to Sonora, and of the places where they can get guides if they should wish to come to that province.
Friday, May 13 SP -- Soon after sunrise we raised our train to begin the march up the Jila River, which most of them did. But I remained here until Palma, the captain of the Yumas, finished taking over to the other side of the Colorado River four cattle which I gave to the party that was about to return to Monte Rey. Having done this he came to bid me good-bye. At the same time an old Yuma came with the report that some individuals of the Cojat tribe were waiting until I should leave, in order to rob the party mentioned of some horses, because they were from the region where the Jahuenches, their enemies, lived, and whom therefore they did not recognize as their relatives, as they did me and my troops. The informant added that most of the same nation were opposed to this plan.
Since in such matters nothing ought to be depreciated, however simple and harmless it may appear, I decided immediately, in order to prevent any misfortune, to send Captain Palma with the native of California to escort the party from that district, informing the corporal about the matter in writing, and sending him other orders pertinent to the affair, and bearing on all his journey, and like wise notifying the authors of the disturbance that I was waiting to see if they carried out their evil plan, in order to punish them. For effect I called back our train, which returned in the afternoon of this day, at the same time that a relative of Captain Palma reported to me that he was taking with him more than two hundred selected Yumas to go to conduct the party in safety.
Saturday, May 14 SP -- Nothing particular occurred.
Sunday, May 15 SP -- At twelve o'clock today Captain Palma returned with the native Californian, who brought me a report from the corporal of the party which is returning to Monte Rey, that he was about to continue his march from the place where they were leaving him. He said that thus far there had been no disturbance to cause him to worry, and that he did not expect any from that place forward; that Captain Palma had delivered to him two mounts which, becoming lost the day before, had been stolen by two young heathen, from whose possession Palma took them, punishing the offenders; and that Palma at the same time recovered an ax which they had stolen from us. Palma brought the ax and I gave it to him. In reply he informed me that the rumor mentioned was only the talk of some young men, whom he would have chided even without my presence; and that he will do this way as long as he lives, during which time neither he nor his tribe will cease their affection for us or their fidelity to the king.
I again told this heathen captain that he must maintain peace with the neighboring tribes, because it was the wish of both majesties, and that he should be sure to bring to our settlements any Spaniard who might come to his territory. This and other orders he agreed to carry out, and as a reward for the services which he has performed for the king I gave him my baston, four beeves, and some articles of clothing; indeed, I should have been glad to be able to reward this heathen barbarian more liberally, for his equal is not to be found amongst his kind.
At three in the afternoon I said good-bye to this captain and set forth up the Gila River, which, from its source to its junction with the Colorado, runs in general from the northeast and east to the south and west. I decided to ascend it in order to make my return to my presidio more direct and convenient, as well as to make peace among all the tribes which live on its borders. Having gone three leagues I camped for the night on the banks of the river at a place where there is pasturage. From Monte Rey to the Gila River, 197 leagues.
Monday, May 16 SP -- At daybreak I set out along the river, whose abundance of water and good lands for crops continue, although there is little or no pasturage, for in the distance of eight or nine leagues only one small piece was encountered.
Tuesday, May 17 SP -- At daybreak I set out and ascended the same river six leagues, at the end of which we passed the point of the sierra from which branches off the range of the Aguaje Empinado mentioned in our coming, to which I gave the name of San Pasqual. To the distance mentioned we added two more leagues, camping for the night at a place where some pasturage was found.
Wednesday, May 18 SP -- At the same time as yesterday we continued up the same river, striking a trail of some heathen. Following it four leagues, it led us to a village of about a hundred persons of the Cocomaricopa tribe, most of whom were not frightened, because there was a Papago or Pima among them. By means of him and of my interpreter in this language we all understood each other, and by the same means I exhorted them in the same way as the Yumas to maintain peace with this and other tribes, ordering everyone who might be injured by another to report to the presidios. I decided to remain the rest of the day amongst these heathen, who presented me with the few provisions which they had.
This tribe is known both to us and to the Pimas and Yumas by the name which I have given them. Their language is the same as that of the latter, and the same is true of their customs, stature, and robustness. They differ from the Yumas in that all go covered, especially their private parts, and better armed, customs which they have learned from the Pimas or Papagos, to whom they are related. Some of them live on this river, but most of them dwell in the mountains between the Colorado and the Gila. Their number, I am informed by them and the Papagos or Pimas, is not much less than that of the Yumas. At all times when our troops have passed through their country these Cocomaricopas have been friendly to them. The place where we are today I named San Bernardino. The north latitude was observed today and it came out 33¡ 02' -- From Monte Rey to the first village of the Cocomaricopas and the site of San Bernardino on the Gila River, 221 leagues.
Thursday, May 19 SP -- At daybreak I set out up the same river on the bank opposite the one which I followed yesterday, and at a distance of five leagues from San Bernardino we passed a good spring of hot water, from which it takes its name, Ojo Caliente. The water is sufficient to irrigate a large piece of ground, which evidently was done in former times by the Cocomaricopas, but they have abandoned the place on account of the wars with the Yumas, as I am told by a Pima who is with me. In addition to these five leagues three more were traveled, until we stopped where there was pasturage and camped for the night.
Friday, May 20 SP -- At sunrise we recrossed the Gila which here, as well as in all the stretch where we have followed it, is generally not less than four palms deep, although this is the time of the greatest drought. The natives tell me that when it is in flood, which is during the summer rains, it is not less than five hundred varas wide, and from the signs which it leaves this appears to be the case.
As soon as we had passed the river we climbed some good-sized hills which lasted for three leagues. Then we descended to the river bottom, along which we continued for two more leagues, to the neighborhood of San Simon y Judas de Upasoitac, where I camped for the night. This place is well peopled by these Cocomaricopas, and others who really are the same, although they call them Opas, to Which are added now some Papagos or Pimas who have deserted their country on account of the great drought and the still greater famine which is experienced in it.
Because of the first of these drawbacks mentioned, I cannot cut across from here to my presidio, which I ought to be able to do, for it is distant only forty leagues over good terrain with good pasturage. I therefore decided to make this journey by way of the settlements of the Pimas, for which purpose it is necessary to ascend the river still farther.
Saturday, May 21 SP -- Having traveled a league I camped on the very site of San Simon y Judas de Upasoitac. The latitude of this place was observed and was found to be in 33¡ 15' -- From Monte Rey to Opasoitac, last village of the Cocomaricopas on the same Gila River, 233 leagues.
Having been in this place on other occasions, the Reverend Father Garces decided to remain here for the purpose of trying to find out whether, by means of the tribes who live between here and the province of Moqui, of which they tell, it is possible to send a letter to the province of New Mexico. A servant of mine voluntarily remained with him. At half past two in the afternoon I set out from here for the settlements of the Pimas, over good terrain, in order to cut off the bend which the river makes to the north, which is entirely uninhabited. Having gone seven leagues, by traveling into the night, camp was made to rest in a place where pasturage was found.
Sunday, May 22 SP -- At daybreak we continued the march, and having covered six leagues I halted at the Pima village of Sutaquison, which is maintained permanently on the river and has more than two thousand inhabitants. Its natives, as has already been said, are devoted to raising crops. One of the fields which I saw, and which they tell me is the smallest one they have, I estimate has planted in it from sixty to eighty fanegas of wheat, marvelously fine and about ready to harvest -- From Monte Rey to El Sutaquison and the first Pimas on the Gila River, 216 leagues.
This village acknowledges as its juez or captain the person who is captain of my presidio. For this reason I appointed a governor here, as has always been the custom, which office, as well as that of the village which follows, was vacant because of the death of those who held them. Here there is seen very clearly, from the foundations and even parts of the walls, a palace of the people who formed the nation which it is believed went to establish their empire in the City of Mexico. As far as the site of Upasoitac further back, and this one of which we are now speaking, reaches the infernal pest of the Apaches, who not long ago killed twelve natives of the former, and still more recently sixty of the latter settlement.
Monday, May 23 SP -- Continuing along the bottom land, after traveling two leagues I halted for the night at the village of Juturitucan, or San Juan Capistrano, which is larger in every way than the foregoing village. Here I appointed as governor and alcalde two brothers, sons of the one who formerly held these offices. They have under their authority about three thousand persons, all of whom live closely united, having been harried by the last attacks of the Apaches. The fields of wheat which they now possess are so large that, standing in the middle of them, one cannot see the ends, because of their great length. They are very wide, too, embracing the whole width of the valley on both sides, and the maize fields are of similar proportions. Having observed the latitude of Sutaquison yesterday, it was computed to be in 33¡ 24' -- From Monte Rey to El Juturitucan, the last Pimas on the Gila River, 248 leagues.
Tuesday, May 24 SP -- Raising our train at sunrise, and traveling two leagues along the same river, we halted on its banks at a place where there was pasturage. At this distance up the river from where we are there is another palace which is known as the Palace of Moctezuma, and a town larger than the one mentioned farther back. The structure of this palace is a labyrinth, of which experts have made careful drawings. It is seen that it had several stories, and even today the walls are so high that they can be seen for more than a league away. And it is at least a league from the river, which they introduced underneath the very palace and to the rest of the town, in order to have water at hand. The material of these buildings is purely of earth, but they also contain a mixture of small stones or coarse sand, which appears by its consistency like the finest mortar or cement, a better test of which is that it still endures after the many years which they estimate it has lasted.
Leaving behind us the Gila River, at two in the afternoon we continued our march, now going south, in which direction we traveled until midnight, when a halt was made to rest for awhile.
Wednesday, May 25 SP -- Before daylight we again took up the march in the same direction, traveling over level land the same as yesterday afternoon, and at eleven we halted at the point of the spring of the town of Tucson, to recover from the heat of the sun. Continuing this afternoon, after going about a league and a half we arrived at the town named, which belongs to the jurisdiction of my presidio, and is now inhabited by Upper Pimas, of which it has eighty families.
This place is twenty-four leagues from the Gila, and, although I have traveled this distance without water, it is not because there is none in the middle of the stretch. Indeed, there is water at the site of Aquituni, the residence of a village of Papagos comprising sixty families, but I did not go that way because the land is broken, and because I feared some encounter with the Apaches, which are now very frequent there, for I was not in condition to bring our train through in safety, because all the men with me are mounted on very crippled mules, which even if they are not crippled are useless in such cases -- From Monte Rey to the Pima pueblo of El Tucson, 274 leagues.
Thursday, May 26 SP -- Before daylight I received through six soldiers of my company an order from the adjutant inspector, Don Antonio Bonilla, to hasten my arrival at the presidio, he having been told of my coming this way by the two soldiers mentioned on the 12th of the present month. In fulfillment of this order I set out from this pueblo a little after sunrise toward the south, in which direction my presidio lies, hoping to reach it today, although it is twenty leagues away. I left appropriate orders to the effect that all the soldiers who have accompanied me in the expedition and all our train shall continue slowly, in order to arrive tomorrow morning.
In the company of the six soldiers mentioned and of the Reverend Father Fray Juan Diaz, who wished to come with me, I continued my journey, and at the end of the first five leagues I passed through the pueblo of San Xavier del Bac, capital of the foregoing, having forty families of the same tribe; and continuing for fifteen more leagues, at sunset I arrived at the presidio of Tubac, which is the one in my charge. Here I requested Reverend Fray Juan Diaz, the one who has made the observations in our transit, to show on a map what we have done, in order to give an idea to his Excellency, the Viceroy, of the routes, villages, and other particulars which we have noted.
Friday, May 27 SP -- At twelve o'clock today the rest of the caravan, which I left behind, arrived at this presidio. Herewith the expedition has come completely to an end, with the successes and advantages which are set forth in the foregoing document, wherefore may the Lord of Hosts be blessed and praised -- From Monte Rey to the presidio of Tubac, 294 leagues.
Today, the 13th of November, 1774, I made this copy to deliver on the same day to his Excellency, the Viceroy, Governor, and Captain-general in this City of Mexico, into whose hands likewise I have delivered the map which has been mentioned.
JUAN BAP.TA DE ANZA (Rubric).
On the 24th of December, 1774, a certified copy was made from the original of this diary, with which to make a report to his Majesty.'