Diary of Juan Bautista de Anza

Colonizing Expedition, 1775-1776

Thursday, February 1 SP -- At twelve o'clock today a party of six soldiers set out with letters for his Excellency, containing news of the rebellion and of the events that have taken place here, from the commander of these establishments as well as from me. This party goes as far as the first mission of Old California, and in case there should not be an opportunity there to send the letters to the next mission the party is to take them there itself.

Friday, February 2 SP -- Morning dawned with signs of rain which were verified during the afternoon and part of the night.

Saturday, February 3 SP -- At seven o'clock in the morning five soldiers arrived from the mission of San Gabriel with a report from Lieutenant Don Josef Joachín Moraga and the commissary of the troop destined for the fort of San Francisco, informing me that the father minister of the mission charged with supplying that troop with provisions has told them that he cannot do so in the future, because if he does he will lack what is necessary for the Indians of his mission, and that in view of this he has furnished only what was necessary for half rations for eight days. With this news the soldiers were very much displeased; and even granting that the ration should be a full one, it does not correspond very closely to the one assigned by his Excellency in council of war and royal exchequer, considering the scarcity in the mission and its inability to bring supplies to it from the ports of Monte Rey and this one where we are, which are the places where provisions are to be had.

This misfortune having been reported, as was natural, to Commander Don Fernando Rivera, it has been to both of us alike a matter for sorrow, because it upsets the plans which we have made to insure the tranquillity which is necessary in the rebellious Indians, not one of whom has yet come to present himself. In view of everything we agreed that a pack train of maize and beans shall be sent from here, in order that those troops may be supplied; that twenty soldiers shall go with their families to Monte Rey, since there are no provisions in San Gabriel nor any means of carrying them there from here; and that the other ten shall remain at that mission to guard it, most of the soldiers of the former coming to reinforce this presidio for the scouting expeditions which may be considered necessary and be undertaken.

Likewise we have agreed that I shall escort the families mentioned until I take them beyond the Channel of Santa Barbara, in view of the dense population of Indians who inhabit the country as far as there, and who last year took arms against our men, although they were defeated by them. From there, free of this duty, the next establishments being now in good condition, making it possible for the troop mentioned to take some rests, which will be necessary because of the present rains, I shall go ahead for the purpose of gaining time to prepare in Monte Rey for my journey for the exploration of the port of San Francisco, in case it is permitted by the floods of the rivers, which are regarded as unfordable until April or May.

These decisions, which were made through necessity, are a matter of regret to both the commander and to me, for they appear to be contrary in part to the plans which have just been reported to his Excellency. But the cause of the change has already been stated. Moreover, it is also patent that the sole aim of the decisions made is to restore to this presidio the desired tranquillity which the commander is trying to establish, and to facilitate the exploration mentioned, in order to proceed to the foundation. Both aims free us of any charge of insincerity; indeed, even our own interests would lead us to desire to be finishing the latter task now, and that in its execution we should meet no obstacle.

Sunday, February 4 SP -- At ten o'clock in the morning the pack train of provisions mentioned set out. It had been decided on some time back, but since even the mules which carried them were very weak, it had been suspended until today, the time set from the first for starting, after which I was to set forth.

Monday, February 5 SP -- At daybreak it was raining, the storm having come up since nine o'clock last night.

Tuesday, February 6 SP -- The rain continued, with a very strong wind.

Wednesday, February 7 SP -- It was raining this morning the same as yesterday, and the ground was so miry that only with difficulty have they been able to come to report from the guard of the horse herd, which is less than a league from here.

Thursday, February 8 SP -- As impassable as yesterday.

Friday, February 9 SP -- Notwithstanding that the arroyo near this presidio is extremely difficult, I decided to set forth and we crossed it in almost six palms of water. We had some difficulty at the next arroyo, San Dieguito, and another, because all the creeks have become rivers. At the arroyo of Agua Hedionda we halted to pass the night.

Saturday, February 10 SP -- At seven o’clock in the morning we continued our march, the ground being very miry and at vespers we halted at the arroyo of La Quema .

Sunday, February 11 SP -- At the same time as yesterday morning, and over drier country now, we continued our march until half past four in the afternoon, when we arrived at the Santa Ana River, where I halted for the night. Here I overtook the pack train which is carrying the provisions, it having set out from San Diego on the 4th. The corporal in charge reported to me that there had been no other difficulty on his march than the rain already mentioned, and the miry places which have made it impossible for him to travel any faster.

Monday, February 12 SP -- We set forth, all together now, for the mission of San Gabriel, where we arrived in the middle of the afternoon. Here I learned of the incident that occurred at twelve o'clock the night before. It was that a soldier, one of the old ones of these establishments, who at the time was entrusted with the care of the saddle animals of all the guard and those of the mission, deserted in company with three muleteers of my train and a servant of the sergeant of the expedition. For this purpose they carried off about twenty-five saddle animals, the best of those belonging to both, although the greater part of them belonged to the mission. In this theft were included also two mules belonging to the expedition.

The first that was known of this matter was when one of the muleteers who have remained returned at midnight from the ranch of the soldiers to sleep at his camp and noted some fragments scattered about. Inferring from this that there had been a robbery, he immediately reported to the officer and the commissary, and they went at once to examine the site and the pieces, inquiring for the guard in whose charge they had been. He was not found, but they did find that they had stolen some glass beads, tobacco, and chocolate, which indicated a desertion. A review of all the men being held, it was found that the persons mentioned were lacking, besides two muskets, a saddle, and other things of less importance which they were able to lay their hands on.

In view of all the foregoing, and it not being noticed in the morning that the saddle animals mentioned were lacking, for they were turned out loose in the fields, they sent to where our mounts were being guarded for those necessary to follow the deserters, and Lieutenant Moraga set out after them with ten soldiers, determined to follow them two days, which is as much as the animals can stand , although they chose the best of them.

I have done all I could to learn whether the disease of desertion has spread to the soldiers, or to persons who have come to settle in these places, but I have not found any one so infected. This seems to be proved by the event itself, for among those who have fled no one from these classes is included. And it is the common opinion that the soldier influenced the other four, for they say he has been under suspicion of desertion ever since he came, and is so desperate and bold that on another occasion he attempted to desert from Baja California on a tule raft. He sailed on it at the will of the wind for a day, but the next day he was wafted back to the very land from which he wished to escape. -- From Tubac to the mission of San Gabriel , counting the journey to San Diego and the return to this mission, 278 leagues have been traveled.

Tuesday, February 13 SP -- It is necessary to await the return of Lieutenant Moraga, because both he and the seven soldiers who are with him have to go forward to escort their families. Moreover, the country is impassable because of the mires which are caused by the heavy rains, which have been continuous during these last six days. For all these reasons I decided to await him.

Wednesday, February 14 SP -- I continued to wait, as explained above, and today there was some rain.

Thursday, February 15 SP -- At half past seven at night arrived two of the soldiers who were accompanying the lieutenant who is pursuing the deserters. He sent them back from the region of the Laguna de San Antonio Bucareli , on the road to Sonora , on the night of the day when he set out from here. The reason was as follows: Having lost the road on account of the thick fog, he turned back while it was still foggy to find it again. He discovered that the relay which he had brought in his rear guard had kept on the road and had gone ahead at a time when one of the soldiers was run away with by his horse . Fearing that he would not overtake the relay without a long delay, he thought it best to entrust it to another in order that they might return here, he continuing on his way without any loss of time. From what is inferred from the trail, the deserters have not stopped anywhere except to change horses. This they are doing frequently, and since they are taking a better relay than those who are following them, it will be difficult for them to overtake them unless the deserters become careless.

Friday, February 16 SP -- Before daybreak it began to rain, and at nine o'clock the land was so miry that although our horse herd is not a league away, those who came to give a report of it and of its guard were about an hour and a half on the way. They reported that on account of the mires it is not possible to guard the horse herd, for which reason the herd will be turned loose and watched.

Saturday, February 17 SP -- The weather was clear until three in the afternoon, when the few clouds which remained from the day and the night before discharged some water.

Sunday, February 18 SP -- It ceased raining and nothing in particular occurred.

Monday, February 19 SP -- Nothing worth mentioning happened.

Tuesday, February 20 SP -- Lieutenant Moraga, who is following the deserters, has not yet returned, and I conclude from this delay that he has followed them as far as the Colorado River , making it impossible for him to return so soon. And since it is not permissible to await him any longer, through lack of provisions and inability to bring them from the other missions, I have decided to set forth with most of the expedition for the presidio of Monte Rey, as Don Fernando Rivera and I agreed, and as has been set forth hereinbefore. I am leaving orders that as soon as Lieutenant Moraga returns he shall follow and overtake me, with the escort which I am leaving here. I am also arranging that twelve soldiers of my expedition now at this mission are to remain, including the four who are with the lieutenant, in order that with this number and five of the old soldiers of these establishments, the necessary guard may remain in this one, in charge of the sergeant of my expedition. Eight are to go to the presidio of San Diego to bring provisions for both guards and for the twelve families who are remaining here, setting out on the 22d of this month with a pack train of mules, also belonging to my expedition. For this reason I am reporting to Don Fernando Rivera everything that has occurred, and telling him what supplies I am leaving for the troops and families destined for this place. They consist of only enough for twenty-three days .

Wednesday, February 21 SP -- At half past eleven, when everything was ready for the march, I set forth with seventeen of the soldiers and the same number of the families destined to remain in this California, besides six of my company. four of these last are remaining here to await Lieutenant Moraga , as has been said, and also to escort the cattle belonging to the colonists. I set out on the regular road to Monte Rey, which we followed for a little more than a league to the southwest. Continuing for another league to the west-southwest, we crossed the Porciúncula River . After this we made three more leagues, traveling until five o'clock in the afternoon, having marched five and a half hours, when we halted at El Portezuelo, where the night was passed. Notwithstanding that for a number of days past it has not rained very hard, the road has been so heavy that many of the mules which carried the loads fell down. -- From Tubac to El Portezuelo, exclusive of the distance traveled in going to and returning from San Diego, 203 leagues .

Thursday, February 22 SP -- Having moved our train, at eight o'clock in the morning we continued on our way. Going mainly to the west, over better footing than yesterday and by the trail mentioned, we made seven leagues in as many hours, traveling until three in the afternoon, and reaching the site of Agua Escondida, where camp was made for the night. -- From Tubac to Agua Escondida, 210 leagues .

Friday, February 23 SP -- Raising our train, at eight o'clock we set forth, going southwest for a league, at the end of which we continued, gradually rising, for a matter of three leagues, at which distance we finished crossing a small range which we began to ascend yesterday. The last descent of it is very dangerous, but having passed it, most of the women going on foot, we continued five more leagues to the northwest. We accomplished all this in ten hours, and at six o'clock we reached the Santa Clara River, where the night was passed, it having been impossible to halt before this for lack of firewood -- From Tubac to the Santa Clara River, 219 leagues .

Saturday, February 24 SP -- With a dense fog and signs of rain we raised our camp, and a little before nine o'clock set forth to the west. Having traveled two leagues we reached the first village of the Channel of Santa Barbara, along which we went in the same direction, and in which it runs throughout its length except for a few short turns to the northwest. In a little more than six hours we traveled four leagues, and at three o'clock in the afternoon we came to the rancherías del Rincón , where a halt was made for the night. In these two villages we have found an abundance of good fish, some of which it has been estimated are more than a foot long exclusive of the tail, especially the female sardines, which are full of spawn. -- From Tubac to the Rancherías del Rincón, 225 leagues .

Sunday, February 25 SP -- At nine o'clock we continued our march along the same Channel and in the same direction, traveling seven leagues in a little more than seven hours, and making camp in the neighborhood of the villages of Mexcaltitán a little before reaching them. In the three villages through which we have passed before these we have found a greater abundance of fish and sardines than in the previous ones. -- From Tubac to the Rancherías de Mexcaltitán, 232 leagues .

Monday, February 26 SP -- At half past eight we set forth on the march, continuing along the same Channel. We went west in the main, although during the first part of the march, for about a league and a half, until we reached and passed the villages of Mexcaltitán, we descended west-southwest, after which we traveled for six and a half leagues more until we passed the Ranchería Nueva, having already passed by five others, all abounding in fish. Here we concluded the day's march, having traveled a little less than seven hours. -- From Tubac to the Ranchería Nueva, 239 leagues.

Tuesday, February 27 SP -- At eight o'clock we raised our camp and continued on our way, still following the same Channel toward the west. In this direction we traveled eight leagues in slightly more than eight hours, until we had passed a little beyond the village of El Cojo, having left behind four other habitations of the same kind. At three o'clock in the afternoon we halted for the night at the place named. -- From Tubac to the Rancherías del Cojo, 247 leagues .

Wednesday, February 28 SP -- At the same hour as yesterday we set forth on the march, following along the same Channel to the west, with short turns to the west-northwest, and traveled until we reached the last village called the Ranchería de los Pedernales , which is preceded by that of La Espada, having now finished the Channel and gone four and a half leagues. From here we went northwest, keeping very close to the coast for five more leagues, when we came at four o'clock in the afternoon to the Santa Rosa River. We could not cross it now because the tide was entering it and so we halted for the night. The circumstances of the heathen who live on this Channel, their number, their mode of living in rational union, the building of vessels with which they fish, and other qualities which are not usually found among such people, I noted in my former diary and journey, and for this reason I am not repeating them in this one. -- From Tubac to the Santa Rosa River, 256 1/2 leagues .

Thursday, February 29 SP -- At six o'clock in the morning I sent to learn the condition of the river. On account of the flood of water poured into it by the rise of the sea it was not fordable until half past twelve, when with the falling of the tide it was possible to cross. We now went over successfully, after which we continued our march to the northwest for two hours and three-quarters, traveling about three leagues, at the end of which we halted at Laguna Graciosa to pass the night, since for four or five hours forward from here there is neither water nor firewood. -- From Tubac to Laguna Graciosa, 259 1/2 leagues.