Diary of Miguel Costansó, Portola Expedition
July 14, 1769 - January 24, 1770
DIARY OF THE JOURNEY BY LAND MADE TO THE NORTH OF CALIFORNIA BY ORDER OF HIS EXCELLENCY THE MARQUES DE CROIX, VICEROY, GOVERNOR AND CAPTAIN-GENERAL OF NEW SPAIN, ETC.
BY INSTRUCTION OF THE MOST ILLUSTRIOUS DON JOSEPH DE GALVEZ, OF THE COUNCIL AND COURT OF HIS MAJESTY IN THE SUPREME COUNCIL OF THE INDIES, INSPECTOR-GENERAL OF ALL THE TRIBUNALS, ROYAL EXCHEQUERS, AND DEPARTMENTS OF FINANCE OF HIS MAJESTY IN THE SAME KINGDOM, AND INTENDANT OF THE KING'S ARMY, ETC., ETC.
PERFORMED BY THE TROOPS DETAILED FOR THIS PURPOSE UNDER THE COMMAND OF THE GOVERNOR OF THE PENINSULA OF CALIFORNIA, DON GASPAR DE PORTOLA, CAPTAIN IN THE DRAGONES DE ESPAÑA REGIMENT.
The departure having been fixed for the 14th of July, the governor ordered out six soldiers and a corporal to explore the country for the distance of the first two days' marches. These soldiers left on the morning of the 12th, and returned on the afternoon of the following day with the information that they had found a watering-place sufficient for the men and horses at a distance of six or seven leagues.
Friday, July 14, 1769 SP -- After giving water to the animals, as we knew there was none in the place where we were to sleep, we started in the afternoon and proceeded for two leagues. We halted in a canyon, to which we gave the name of San Diego, where there was an abundance of pasture. From San Diego to the canyon of the same name, 2 leagues. Distance from San Diego, 2 leagues.
Saturday, July 15 SP -- In the morning we broke camp at the place mentioned, and arrived at the spot previously reconoitered by the scouts; it was given the name of La Poza de Osuna, and also of San Jacome de la Marca-the former by the soldiers, the latter by the missionary fathers. This place is a very picturesque and attractive canyon. In parts it is probably more than two thousand yards wide; it is entirely covered with pasture, with some groves of trees, and has much water collected in pools. Towards the west, and beside one of these, we pitched our camp at one o'clock in the afternoon. On our way we came upon two Indian villages-one about midway, the other in the very canyon where we encamped. All the country through which we passed was rich in pasture and not at all rough. We headed constantly to the northwest and north-northwest as the lay of the land permitted; (the country) was composed of hills of moderate height sloping into various canyons, all of which ran down to the sea, and the waters found their way into them by various creeks in which a quantity of salt accumulates.
The Indians of the canyon immediately came to see us; they approached little by little, full of suspicion, and as they were greeted and presented with some strings of glass beads they quieted down and became so familiar with us that they occasioned annoyance.
The scouts were sent out during the afternoon, and returned on the following morning with news that they had found a watering-place at a suitable distance.To La Poza de Osuna, 4 leagues. Distance from San Diego, 6 leagues.
Sunday, July 16 SP -- We broke camp in the afternoon, and,directing our course to the north and north-northwest over high, hilly country like that just covered, we went through two very pleasant canyons. In the first we saw an Indian village (and the inhabitants) came out to receive us as we passed. One of these made a speech and welcomed us, to which we replied only with gestures and signs of appreciation, but without stopping. They accompanied us for a long distance and showed us some small watering-places to one side of the road. We halted in the second canyon near a small Indian village, and close by the watering-place selected. This was a spring of good water situated on the eastern side of the canyon, and as it was somewhat scanty it was necessary to dig a pool in front of it to receive its small supply, and to wait until it filled in order to water the animals.
The country was pleasant, covered with undergrowth and some trees called alisos, and exceedingly abundant in pasture.This canyon was given the name of San Alejo.To San Alejo, 3 leagues. From San Diego, 9 leagues.
Monday, July 17 SP -- In the afternoon we left the place just mentioned, the country having already been examined by the scouts. We travelled for three leagues. The country was of the same character as that just covered; that is, composed of low hills of black earth, readily traversable and easy of approach, and covered with pasture. We came to the watering-place situated in a moderately wide canyon. The water issued from two different springs and stood in pools, about which it formed some miry places or marshes, covered with reeds and pasture. We pitched our camp upon a slope on the western side of the canyon, and gave the place the name of Santa Sinforosa. From our campone could see, on the top of a low hill, an Indian village. (The inhabitants,) warned of our coming by their neighbors of San Alejo, sent two of their number to beg leave to come and visit us. We gave them to understand by signs that they should defer the visit until the following day; but forthwith they went back to their village, and in a short time all the inhabitants came (to our camp)-there must have been as many as forty men, well-built and good-looking. The leader or chief soon afterwards began his harangue with loud cries and odd grimaces, but, without giving him time to finish, we made presents to him and his people of some glass beads and sent them away.
In the morning they returned and remained quietly amongst us until our departure.To Santa Sinforosa, 2 leagues. From San Diego, 11 leagues.
Tuesday, July 18 SP -- The watering-place found by the scouts was a little more than two leagues from Santa Sinforosa, a distamce that we covered in the afternoon. The country over which we passed was also hilly. The place where we halted was exceedingly beautiful and pleasant, a valley remarkable for its size, adorned with groves of trees, and covered with the finest pasture. It must have been nearly a league wide, and different canyons opened into it on the north and northeast. The watering-place consisted of a pool or marsh of considerable extent. We camped on a rising ground within the same valley, towards the west. (To the valley) we gave the name of San Juan Capistrano.
The Indians in the neighborhood, warned of our coming, came out to meet us, so confident, it seemed, and certain of our friendship that they brought all their women. The captains or caciques made their usual speeches to us.To San Juan Capistrano, 2 leagues. From San Diego, 13 leagues.
Wednesday, July 19 SP -- We rested at this place, and in the early morning sent out the scouts to reconnoiter the country as far as they could go, but so as to return to camp before nightfall. Seven men with the sergeant of the presidio of the Californias set out for this purpose. The natives came to our quarters very early and in greater number than on the preceding day-there must have been more than two hundred souls of both sexes. They mingled with us with as much familiarity as they could have done with their own countrymen and friends. We greeted them and made them presents, but the novelty made such an impression on them that they did not want to leave us, however much we tried to get rid of them, and they remained until very late watching and observing us.
Thursday, July 20 SP -- We set out very early in the morning, following one of the canyons that terminated on the northern side of the valley of San Juan Capistrano. This canyon afterwards turned to the northeast, and, for this reason, we left it so as not to go out of our course. After passing some hills, we came into another spacious and pleasant canyon adorned with groves of trees and covered with pasture. The day's journey was two leagues. To this place we gave the name of Santa Margarita.
The watering-place was ample; the water, fresh and good, stood in several pools; nevertheless within this same canyon there was a large pond of brackish water. The natives of the near-by villages, numbering about seventy persons of both sexes, immediately came to welcome us; we gave the women some glass beads and sent them away.To Santa Margarita, 2 leagues. From San Diego, 15 leagues.
Friday, July 21 SP -- We broke camp in the morning, and, taking the course to the northwest, we left the canyon of Santa Margarita. The road was over low hills, and after (travelling) for two leagues, we halted on the western side of the canyon. The watering-place consisted of some pools, and there was sufficient pasture. In this place we saw some native women, but very few Indians could be seen. We gave it the name of Cañada de los Rosales, on account of the great number of rose bushes we saw.To Los Rosales, 2 leagues. From San Diego, 17 leagues.
Saturday, July 22 SP -- We left Los Rosales, and, following the course to the northwest over a road of low hills and gullies, we arrived at the watering- place, distant about three leagues from our starting point. The water was held in a pool of small size but of considerable depth, in a canyon on the eastern side of which we pitched our camp on level ground covered with pasture.
Near the camp there was a small Indian village; the people remained with us, very happy and contented, during the greater part of the day. At this place the missionary fathers baptized two children of these natives that were dying, for which reason we gave the place the name of the Cañada del Bautismo.To the Cañada del Bautismo, 3 leagues. From San Diego, 20 leagues.
Sunday, July 23 SP -- Prom the Cañada del Bautismo we came to another canyon, to which we gave the name of Santa María Magdalena, situated to the north-northwest of the first. The road, although over hilly country and somewhat broken ground, was not very laborious. The place had abundant pasture, and was thickly covered with willows and other trees. The watering-place was very copious-the water held in pools among reeds and rushes.To Santa María Magdalena, 3 leagues. From San Diego, 23 leagues.
Monday, July 24 SP -- We set out, and, taking the course to the north- northwest through another canyon that opens into that of Santa María Magdalena, we turned to the west and reached the top of some low hills. Afterwards, crossing a considerable stretch of level country, we entered another canyon, very picturesque, which ran at the foot of a high range, containing a stream of water and many trees. We pitched our camp to the east on level ground. Immediately, there came to visit us the Indians who inhabited a village within the same canyon. They came unarmed and showed unequalled affability and gentleness. They made us gifts of their humble seeds, and we presented them with ribbons and trifles.To San Franoisoo Solano, 3 leagues. From San Diego, 26 leagues.
Tuesday, July 25 SP -- We rested in the canyon described, which we called the Cañada de San Francisco Solano. Early in the morning the scouts set out to examine the country; they returned in the afternoon with news of having found a watering-place, but at a distance of six leagues or over.
Wednesday, July 26 SP -- We left San Francisco Solano after midday, having taken the precaution to water the animals. We directed our course to the northwest, over mounds of earth, moderately high and passable, until we descended to a very extensive plain, of which the limit could not be discerned by the eye. After three leagues we halted close to a very small watering-place; it was scarcely sufficient for the people. We called it the Aguage del Padre Gómez as it was discovered by this missionary father who was of our company.To the Aguage del Padre Gómez, 3 leagues. From San Diego, 29 leagues.
Thursday, July 27 SP -- In the morning we broke camp at the watering place above mentioned, and, crossing the plain in the direction of the northwest, we arrived, after three leagues, at the watering-place, which was a stream of very good running water. One could see, however, that it was diminishing each day on account of the dry season, the water gradually sinking into the sand. The stream descended from the range, and appeared to have a considerable flow in the rainy season. Its banks are very luxuriant. To this place we gave the name of Santiago.To Santiago, 3 leagues. From San Diego, 32 leagues.
Friday, July 28 SP -- From Santiago we went to another place of which the scouts gave us particulars. It was not far, in truth, as we arrived after an hour's march. It is a beautiful river, and carries great floods in the rainy season, as is apparent from its bed and the sand along its banks. This place has many groves of willows and very good soil, all of which can be irrigated for a great distance.
We pitched our camp on the left bank of the river. To the right there is a populous Indian village; the inhabitants received us with great kindness. Fifty-two of them came to our quarters, and their captain or cacique asked us by signs which we understood easily, accompanied by many entreaties, to remain there and live with them. (He said) that they would provide antelopes, hares, or seeds for our subsistence, that the lands which we saw were theirs, and that they would share them with us.
At this place we experienced a terrible earthquake, which was repeated four times during the day. The first vibration or shock occurred at one o'clock in the afternoon, and was the most violent; the last took place at about half-past four. One of the natives who, no doubt, held the office of priest among them, was at that time in the camp. Bewildered, no less than we, by the event, he began, with horrible cries and great manifestations of terror, to entreat the heavens, turning in all directions, and acting as though he would exorcise the elements(?). To this place we gave the name of Río de los Temblores.To the Río de los Temblores, 1 league. From San Diego, 33 leagues.
Saturday, July 29 SP -- At two o'clock in the afternoon, we started from the Río de los Temblores. We travelled for two leagues, leaving the level country and the coast to enter the mountains, as we feared a lack of water in the plain. We found no water for the animals, but there was sufficient for the people in some little springs or small pools in a narrow canyon close to a native village. The Indians of this village were holding a feast and dance, to which they had invited their neighbors of the Río de los Temblores.To Los Ojitos, 2 leagues. From San Diego, 35 leagues.
Sunday, July 30 SP -- We left Los Ojitos, where there was another earthquake of no great violence, at half-past six in the morning. We crossed the plain in a northerly direction, steadily approaching the mountains. We ascended some hills which were quite rugged and high; afterwards we descended to a very extensive and pleasant valley where there was an abundance of water, part of it running in deep ditches, part of it standing so as to form marshes. This valley must be nearly three leagues in width and very much more in length. We pitched our camp near a ditch of running water, its banks covered with watercress and cumin. We gave this place the name of Valle de San Miguel. It is, perhaps, about four leagues from Los Ojitos. In the afternoon we felt another earthquake.To the Valle de San Miguel, 4 leagues. From San Diego, 39 leagues.
Monday, July 31 SP -- We left this camping-place at seven o'clock in the morning, and, crossing the ditch over which we had to lay a bridge on account of the depth, we travelled for two leagues to the west-northwest through fields of dry grass and thickets, which detained us for a long time as it was necessary to clear a path at every step. We crossed a very muddy stream and camped farther on in an open clear spot in the same valley, and close to a gap which was seen to the west. At half-past eight in the morning we experienced another violent earthquake. Through the same Valle de San Miguel, 2 leagues. From San Diego, 41leagues.