Diary of Miguel Costansó
Portola Expedition, 1769-1770
Tuesday, August 1 SP -- We rested to-day, and the scouts went out to explore the country.
At ten o'clock in the morning there was an earthquake, which was repeated with violence at one o'clock in the afternoon; and one hour afterwards we experienced another shock. Some of the soldiers asked permission to go hunting mounted on their horses and others (to go) on foot, with the intention of killing some antelopes, as many of these animals had been seen. They are a species of wild goat with horns somewhat larger than those of the goats. These soldiers, on their return, said that they had seen a river of fine water-from sixteen to seventeen yards wide-that rises near the gap of the valley to the south, and at the foot of a low hill that was in sight of our camp, and, at the most, half a league distant.
Wednesday, August 2 SP -- In the morning we broke camp, and travelling towards the west, we left the valley by an opening formed between low hills. Later we entered quite an extensive canyon containing many poplars and alders, among which a beautiful river flowed towards the north-northwest, and turning the point of a small steep hill it afterwards continued its course to the south.To the north-northeast one could see another water-course or river-bed which formed a wide ravine, but it was dry. This water-course joined that of the river, and gave clear indications of heavy floods during the rainy season, as it had many branches of trees and debris on its sides. We halted at this place, which was named La Porciúncula. Here we felt three successive earthquakes during the afternoon and night.To the Río de la Porciúncula, 2 leagues. From San Diego, 43 leagues.
Thursday, August 3 SP -- We forded the Río de la Porciúncula, which descends with great rapidity from the canyon through which it leaves the mountains and enters the plain. We directed our course to the west- southwest over high level ground and, after a march of three leagues, we reached the watering-place, to which we gave the name of the Ojo de Agua de los Alisos. This was a large spring situated in a marshy place where there stood some alder trees of very large girth; the marsh was covered with grass, fragrant plants, and watercress. Hence the water flowed through a deep ditch towards the southwest. All the country that we saw on this day's march appeared to us most suitable for the production of all kinds of grain and fruits. On our way we met the entire population of an Indian village engaged in harvesting seeds on the plain.
In the afternoon there were other earthquakes; the frequency of them amazed us. Someone was convinced that there were large volcanoes in the mountain range that lay in front of us extending towards the west. We found sufficient indications of this on the road that lies between the Río de la Porciúcula and the Ojo de:Agua de los Alisos, as the scouts saw, adjoining the mountains, some large swamps of a certain material like pitch which was bubbling up.To the Ojo de Agua de los Alisos, 3 leagues. From San Diego, 46 leagues.
Friday, August 4 SP -- From the Ojo de Agua de los Alisos, skirting the mountains, over a good level road covered with grass, we reached the Ojos de Agua del Berrendo, a name we gave the place because we caught there one of these animals alive-its leg had been broken on the preceding afternoon by a musket-shot from a volunteer soldier who had not been able to overtake it.The watering-place was situated in a hollow surrounded by low hills near the seacoast. Here we found an Indian village (and the inhabitants were) very good-natured. They came at once to our quarters with trays of seeds, nuts, and acorns; to these presents we responded with our strings of glass beads, which they hold in high esteem.To the Ojo de Agua del Berrendo, 2 leagues. From San Diego, 48 leagues.
Saturday, August 5 SP -- The scouts who had set out to examine the coast and the road along the beach returned shortly afterwards with the news of having reached a high, steep cliff, terminating in the sea where the mountains end, absolutely cutting off the passage along the shore. This forced us to seek a way through the mountains, and we found it, although it was rough and difficult.
We then set out from the Ojos del Berrendo in the afternoon, and, directing our course to the northwest towards the point where there appeared to be an opening in the range, we entered the mountains through a canyon formed by steep hills on bothsides. At the end of the canyon, however, the hills were somewhat more accessible and permitted us to take the slope and, with much labor, to ascend to the summit, whence we discerned a very large and pleasant valley. We descended to it and halted near the watering-place, which consisted of a very large pool. Near this there was a populous Indian village, (and the inhabitants were) very good-natured and peaceful. They offered us their seeds in trays or baskets of rushes, and came to the camp in such numbers that, had they been armed, they might have caused us apprehension, as we counted as many as two hundred and five, including men, women, and children. All of them offered us something to eat, and we, in turn, gave them our glass beads and ribbons. We made three leagues on this day's journey. To the valley we gave the name of Santa Catalina; it is about three leagues in width and more than eight in length, and is entirely surrounded by hills.To the Valle de Santa Catalina, or Valle de los Encinos, 3 leagues. From San Diego, 51 leagues.
Sunday, August 6 SP -- We rested to-day, and received innumerable visits from natives who came from various parts to see us. They had information of the appearance of the packets on the coast of the Canal de Santa Bárbara. They drew on the ground the outline or map of the channel and its islands, tracing the course of our ships. They also told us that, in former times, there had come to their country bearded people, dressed and armed like ourselves, indicating that they had come from the east. One of the natives related that he had been as far as their lands, and had seen places or towns composed of large houses, and that each family occupied one of its own. He added further, that at the distance of a few days' marches-about seven or eight-to the north we would arrive at a large river which flowed between rugged mountains and could not be forded; and that farther on we would see the ocean which would hinder us from continuing our journey in that direction. However, we left the verification of the information of these geographers to the test of our own eyes.
Monday, August 7 SP -- We crossed the Valle de Santa Catalina, which is nearly three leagues wide, and pitched our camp at the foot of the mountains that we had to enter on the following day. There was, among rushes and reeds, more than enough water for the people, but very little for the animals. Through the same Valle de los Encinos, 3 leagues. From San Diego, 54 leagues.
Tuesday, August 8 SP -- We entered the mountain range, the road having been already marked out by the pioneers who had been sent ahead very early in the morning. Part of the way we traveled through a narrow canyon, and part over very high hills of barren soil, the ascent and descent of which were exceedingly difficult for the animals. We descended afterwards to a little valley where there was an Indian village; the inhabitants had sent us messengers to the Valle de Santa Catalina, and guides to show us the best trail and pass through the range. These poor fellows had prepared refreshments for our reception, and, as they saw that it was our intention to move on so as not to interrupt the day's march, they made the most earnest entreaties to induce us to visit their village, which was off the road. We had to comply with their requests so as not to disappoint them. We enjoyed their hospitality and bounty, which consisted of seeds, acorns, and nuts. Furthermore, they furnished us other guides to take us to the watering-place about which they gave us information. We reached it quite late. The day's march was four leagues.
The country from the village to the watering-place is pleasing and picturesque on the plain, although the surrounding mountains are bare and rugged. On the plain we saw many groves of poplars and white oaks, which were very tall and large. The watering-place consisted of a stream, containing much water, that flowed in a moderately wide canyon where there were many willows and poplars. Near the place in which we camped there was a populous Indian village; the inhabitants lived without other protection than a light shelter of branches in the form of an inclosure; for this reason the soldiers gave to the whole place the name of the Ranchería del Corral.To the Bancheria dot corral, 4 leagues. From San Diego, 58 leagues.
Wednesday, August 9 SP -- Before our eyes extended vast mountain chains which we had necessarily to enter if we wished to continue our course to the north or northwest, as these were the directions most advantageous and most convenient for our journey. We feared that the more we penetrated into the country the greater the difficulties might be, and that we might be led very far from the coast. It was decided, therefore, to follow the canyon in which we had camped, and the course of the stream, if possible, as far as to the sea. To this purpose the scouts, who had been sent out early in the morning, had orders to proceed as far as they could, and to find out if there were any obstacles on the road. For this reason the people and animals rested to-day.
A multitude of Indians came to the camp with presents of seeds, acorns, and honeycombs formed on frames of cane. They were a very good-natured and affectionate people. They expressed themselves admirably by signs, and understood all that we said to them in the same manner. Thus they gave us to understand that the road inland was very mountainous and rough, while that along the coast was level and easy of access; that if we went through the interior of the country we would have to pass over five mountain ranges, and as many valleys, and that on descending the last range we would have to cross a full and rapid river that flowed between steep banks.
During the night the scouts returned and reported that the land which led to the coast was level and contained plenty of water and pasture; they had not been able to see the ocean, although they had travelled for about six leagues following the course of the canyon.
Thursday, August 10 SP -- We travelled for three leagues through the canyon which still ran in the same direction-west-southwest. We halted on the bank of the stream which, at the time of our arrival, flowed with considerable volume, but, shortly after, dried up with the heat of the sun-just as the scouts told us they had noticed on the previous day. This peculiarity we afterwards observed in other streams; they flowed by night and became dry by day.
All the soil of this canyon is very boggy, treacherous, and of a whitish color; the animals sank into it at every step. This canyon was given the name of Santa Clara. Through the Cañada de Santa Clara, 3 leagues. From San Diego, 61 leagues.
Friday, August 11 SP -- We set out very early in the morning; the canyon still ran in the same direction-west-southwest. After three leagues we halted near a populous village situated on another stream of running water. This emerges from the range through a narrow gorge and empties into the Cañada de Santa Clara, which at this point has a greater width. This village must contain over two hundred souls, who live with no better protection than the Indians of the (Ranchería del) Corral,that is to say, within a similar inclosure of branches.
In the afternoon, seven chiefs or caciques came with a large following of Indians armed with bows and arrows, but with the bowstrings loosened in sign of peace. They brought generous presents of seeds, acorns, nuts, and pine-nuts, which they spreadout before us. The chiefs inquired who was in command of us, and offered to the commander and his officers, as a mark of distinction, various necklaces of some little black and white stones; in hardness and substance they greatly resemble coral, and only differ from it in color. To-day we have probably seen more than five hundred Indians. Through the Cañada de Santa Clara, 3 leagues. From San Diego, 64 leagues.
Saturday, August 12 SP -- In the afternoon, we broke camp and steadily followed the canyon over a road broken by streams and gullies formed by the watershed of the mountain range which is drained by them during the rainy season. We halted on the bank of one of them which still carried a considerable amount of water. We covered three leagues on this day's march.
Some natives from a village within sight came with their trays of seeds and pine-nuts; these they offered us with the same liberality and willingness as the others. Through the Cañada de Santa Clara, 3 leagues. From San Diego, 67 leagues.
Sunday, August 13 SP -- We marched for two leagues, steadily descending the canyon with the intention of reaching the coast which we presumed to be already near. We pitched our camp at a short distance from the stream-henceforth we shall call it,with greater propriety, a river, on account of its volume at this place, increased by various streams which empty into it on both sides of the canyon. Fromthis place we observed a spacious plain, covered with grass and with some trees, extending to the south and west as far as the sea. Near our camp there was a very small Indian village; the inhabitants lived in huts thatched with grass, of a spherical form like the half of an orange, each having a vent in its upper part through which the light entered and the smoke escaped. Through the Cañada de Santa Clara, 2 leagues. From San Diego, 69 leagues.
Monday, August 14 SP -- We broke camp in the morning, directing our course to the west-southwest for a distance of two leagues. We reached the coast, and came in sight of a real town-the most populous and best arranged of all we had seen up to that time-situated on a tongue or point of land, right on the shore which it was dominating, and it seemed to command the waters. We counted as many as thirty large and capacious houses, spherical in form, well built, and thatched with grass. We judged from the large number of people that came out to meet us, and afterwards flocked to the camp, that there could not be less than four hundred souls in the town.
These natives are well built and of a good disposition, very agile and alert, diligent and skillful. Their handiness and ability were at their best in the construction of their canoes made of good pine boards, well joined and calked, and of a pleasing form. They handle these with equal skill, and three or four men go out to sea in them to fish, as they will hold eight or ten men. They use long double-bladed paddles and row with indescribable agility and swiftness. All their work is neat and well finished, but what is most worthy of surprise is that to work the wood and stone they have no other tools than those made of flint; they are ignorant of the use of iron and steel, or know very little of the great utility of these materials, for we saw among them some pieces of knives and sword-blades which they used for no other purpose than to cut meat or open the fish caught in the sea. We saw, and obtained in exchange for strings of glass beads and other trinkets, some baskets or trays made of reeds, with different designs; wooden plates and bowls of different forms and sizes, made of one piece so that not even those turned out in a lathe could be more successful.
They presented us with a quantity of fish, particularly the kind known as bonito (this was the season to catch it, judging from the ease with which they took it); it had as good a taste and as delicate a flavor as that caught in the tunny-fisheries of Cartagena de Levante and on the coasts of Granada.
The engineer who aceompanied this expedition observed, on the beach, the latitude of this town using the English octant; for the meridian altitude of the sun, facing it, he found
| the height of the lower limb | 69° 42' |
| Semidiameter of the sun to be added | 16' |
| In consequence of the observer's eye being six to seven feet above sea-level, subtract | 3' 13' |
| Meridian altitude of the center of the sun | 69° 55' |
| Zenith-distance | 20° 5' |
| Declination of the sun for the meridian of this place, 106° to 107° west of the Isle del Fierro | 14° 8' |
| Latitude of the town | 34° 13' |
We thought that this was the town which the first Spanish navigators-among others Rodríguez Cabrillo-named Pueblo de Canoas. We gave it the name of La Asunción de Nuestra Señora, or La Asumpta, because we reached it on the eve of that festival.
We pitched our camp at a short distance from the town on the banks of a river which comes through a narrow gorge from the mountains to the north and carries its waters to the sea.
In the afternoon, some of the caciques or chiefs from the mountains came with their people to welcome us. Different islanders of the Canal de Santa Bárbara, who happened to be in the Pueblo de la Asumpta, also came to visit us.To the Pueblo de la Asumpta, 2 leagues. From San Diego, 71 leagues.
Tuesday, August 15 SP -- In the afternoon we set out after watering the animals, because the scouts informed us that we could not reach the watering-place (as it was a considerable distance from the place we left) in a single march. We travelled for two leagues along the beach, and pitched our camp near a temporary village of Indian fishermen, who gave us more fish than we could eat.
During the night, these people serenaded us with pipes or whistles; these were very disagreeable and only served to annoy us and keep us awake.To the Ranchería Volante, 2 leagues. From San Diego, 73 leagues.
Wednesday, August 16 SP -- In the morning we marched for another two leagues, or a little more, steadily following the coast. We arrived at an Indian village or rather a populous native town, situated right on the shore on a point of land near which ran a small stream of good water.
The natives of this village immediately came to the camp- this we placed on the opposite side of the stream-bringing fish, roasted or grilled in barbecue, for us to eat while their canoes, then out fishing, were returning with fresh fish. These canoes landed on the beach shortly afterwards, and brought an abundance of bonito and bass, which they gave us and offered in such quantity that we might have loaded the pack-animals with fish if we had had the facilities to salt and prepare it. Moreover, they gave us fish dried without salt (this they not use in their victuals) which we took as a precaution, and it was of great service to us on the journey.
One of the chiefs or caciques of this town was in La Asumpta when we passed through that place, and was one of those who took the greatest care to please us. He was a robust man, of good figure and countenance, and a great dancer, and for this reason we gave his town the name of El Bailarín. It seemed to us still more populous than La Asumpta, and the houses are of the same structure and appearance.To the Pueblo del Bailarín, 2 leagues. From San Diego, 75 leagues.
Thursday, August 17 SP -- We continued our march along the margin of the beach for a short distance, and afterwards over high hills on the coast. We halted about a quarter of a league inland, near a small stream of excellent water which flowed from a canyon of the range; (here there were) many willows. We saw before us another village or Indian town composed of thirty- two houses, and as populous as the previous ones. Men, women, and children came to the camp bringing fish both fresh and roasted, eager to obtain glass beads and trinkets, which are the best money and more highly valued among them than gold and silver.
The soldiers called this town Pueblo de la Carpintería, because at this time (the natives) were constructing a canoe. It is only one league from the Pueblo del Bailarín.
This place seemed to all (of us) very suitable for a mission,on account of the innumerable heathen that inhabit these shores within a radius of only six leagues, and because it has extensive lands well adapted for cultivation and capable of producing rich crops. We may say the same in a mystical sense, as the gentleness of this people gave us great hopes that the word of God will fructify equally in their hearts.To La Carpintería, 1 league. From San Diego, 76 leagues.
Friday, August 18 SP -- From the Pueblo de la Carpintería we marched to the Pueblo de la Laguna, distant three leagues from the first. We pitched our camp close to a pond of fresh water, from which the natives that occupy (the land) and live in the vicinity, take their supply. This was the most populous of all the towns that we, so far, had seen; we estimated that it might contain more than six hundred souls. They offered us as much fish, roasted and fresh, as we could desire, and came to the camp with their women and children; in no other place had we met natives so affectionate and good-natured.
On our way we found two ruined villages; we could not ascertain why they were so, but we concluded that it might be the effect of the wars and quarrels that arise very easily among the natives.To the Pueblo de la Laguna, 3 leagues. From San Diego, 79 leagues.
Saturday, August 19 SP -- We broke camp rather to get away from the annoyance of the natives than to make a day's march; and so, as soon as we made half a league, turning from the shore-at this place steep and fringed by high hills-we halted in a canyon that had running water, although it sank into the sand not far from its source. The canyon was covered with. beautiful live oaks and poplars, and pines grew on the hill-tops.
The scouts, who had been sent out in the morning, came back in the afternoon with the news that they had seen large towns and many natives, telling everyone of the welcome that had been given them on all sides.
At night ten unarmed natives came to the camp with the object, they said, of guiding us to their village in the morning. We allowed them to pass the remainder of the night at some distance from the camp, and sent them some (of our men) who kept them company, and entertained them until daybreak.
Sunday, August 20 SP -- From this canyon we went to the Pueblos de la Isla, distant some three leagues from La Laguna, over a road on level ground between the range and some low hills that lay along the coast. We came in sight of a long, bare point of land; on the eastern side of it a large estuary enters through two different mouths (as some said, because all the men did not see both), half a league, more or less, distant from each other. The estuary surrounds a small hill and a tongue of land of moderate length-this was affirmed to be an island by those who declared that they had seen the two mouths of the estuary,and it must have been so if there were two mouths. On this hill, whose verdure and trees gave very great pleasure to the eye, there stood a very populous Indian town containing innumerable houses, so that someone asserted that he had counted more than one hundred. The estuary spreads over the level country towards the east, forming marshes and creeks of considerable extent, and on their banks there are two other towns, less populous than the Pueblo de la Isla. We passed through one of them to reach the watering-place, near which we pitched our camp. After a short time, the natives of the three towns came with roasted and fresh fish, seeds, acorns, atole or gachas, and various other foods,earnestly inviting us to eat, and showing in their faces the pleasure that our presence gave them. We treated them all kindly,and gave them glass beads, ribbons, and other trifles, in exchange for which we received various curios, such as baskets, furs, and plumes.
All the land that we examined, along the road as well as from our camp, is exceedingly pleasing, with an abundance of pasture, and covered with live-oaks, willows, and other trees, giving indications of fertility and of (a capacity) to produce whatever one might desire to sow.
The natives, not content with making us presents of their eatables, wished, furthermore, to give us a feast, thus manifesting the mutual rivalry and contention between the towns to excel each other in gifts and festivities, in order to merit our approval and praise. In the afternoon the leaders and caciques of each town came, one after the other, adorned according to their custom-painted and decked with feathers, having in their hands some split canes with the motion and noise of which they marked time for their songs, and the rhythm for the dance, so regularly and so uniformly that there was no discord.
The dancing continued all the afternoon, and we had hard work to rid ourselves of (our visitors). Finally we sent them away, earnestly recommending them, by means of signs, not to come back during the night to disturb us; but in vain. At nightfall they returned with a large retinue of clowns or jugglers, playing whistles, the noise of which grated upon the ears. It was to be feared that they would stampede our horses, and, for this reason, the commander, with his officers and some soldiers, went out to receive them. These gave the natives some glass beads, and intimated to them that if they came back to disturb our sleep, they would no longer be our friends and we would give them a bad reception. This was a sufficient measure to cause them to retire and to leave us in peace for the remainder of the night.To the Pueblos de la Isla, 3 leagues. From San Diego, 82 leagues.
Monday, August 21 SP -- From the Pueblo de la Asumpta this coast extends, with slight variation, to the west-northwest, as far as the town we left this morning-called Pueblo de la Laguna, as has already been said. From this point the coast extends almost due west, in which direction we marched for two leagues over high hills in sight of the ocean. These hills were intersected by some gullies made by the drainage from the range which in some places nearly reaches the beach, leaving little land in the intervening space; while in other places the mountains recede and leave some level ground-half a league or a little more-between them and the sea. We passed through quite a large grove of live-oaks, and arrived at the watering-place, a stream of good water in a canyon,
on whose sides, and near the shore, there stood an Indian village which must have contained more than a thousand souls. We halted to the right of the canyon, not far from the village. The inhabitants soon came to welcome us; they also gave us much fish, both fresh and dried, the latter preserved without salt. They did not spare us the compliment of the dance and festivity, which were like those of La Isla.
This place received the name of San Luis Obispo.To San Luis Obispo, 2 leagues. From San Diego, 84 leagues.
Tuesday, August 22 SP -- The scouts, who had set out early in the morning, returned at one o'clock in the afternoon with news of having found water, and a good road along the beach at low tide. To avail ourselves of this circumstance it was necessary to defer the march until the following morning; the people and animals, therefore, rested at this place.
Wednesday, August 23 SP -- In the morning, taking advantage of the low tide, we travelled about a league along the beach. Then we left it and made the rest of the march-which was of three leagues-over high hills. In some places these hills terminated in the sea, and were frequently intersected by ravines and gullies-nearly all with running water-through which the mountain range is drained.
We arrived at the stopping-place, which was a town of eighty houses and about eight hundred souls. It was situated on both sides of a canyon that had running water. (The natives) also complimented us with a dance and abundant gifts of fish and seeds.
We pitched our camp on the left bank of the stream, on a high open spot. We gave the name of San Guido to the entire place.To San Guido, 3 leagues. From San Diego, 87 leagues.
Thursday, August 24 SP -- To-day's march was as difficult as that of yesterday, the road and country being of the same character. It was frequently found necessary to send the pioneers ahead to put the bad places in order; this toilsome drudgery caused us much delay on the march. We came to the stopping-place, a canyon into which an estuary of salt-water entered; upon its sides there is an Indian town of fifty hearths where we were received and entertained as in the previous ones. These natives have a scarcity of fire-wood, and as for water, to obtain it good they have to get it up the canyon before the waters of the stream that comes down through this unite with those of the estuary. Fromthis place, which we named San Luis Rey, we discovered, in the afternoon, the three last islands of the Canal de Santa Bárbara. These are San Bernardo, the most westerly; then Santa Cruz, to the east; and Santa Bárbara, the most easterly of the three, which gave its name to the stretch of sea and coast about which we are speaking. To-day we made three leagues.To San Luis Rey, 3 leagues. From San Diego, 90 leagues.
Friday, August 25 SP -- We set out from the Pueblo de San Luis and occupied four hours in making two leagues over high, and very broken land along the shore. One of the ravines entirely obstructed the way because of the ruggedness of its western slope. We decided to take the road along the beach, over the stones, at the foot of a cliff washed by the ocean waves -a road equally impassable except at low tide. This cliff extended for a quarter of a league, and, afterwards, we crossed high hills to the place named San Zeferino Papa. It was an Indian town of twenty-four houses, and two hundred souls, more or less. They received us with affability and kindness. Their situation is rather desolate; they live in a canyon surrounded by hills of no great height, entirely barren, and destitute of trees. In the interior of the country there are other similar hills, equally desolate in appearance, but they are not without pasture, and the land has good soil. An estuary enters the mouth of the canyon and serves as a landing-place for the Indians, who live by fishing, as do all the others on these coasts. There is fresh running water in this canyon, but one must procure it upstream before it mingles with that of the estuary.
At this place we began to experience cold and violent north winds, and we feared that the effects might be harmful and prejudicial to the health.
The horizontal altitude of the lower limb of the sun, observed with the English octant;
| facing the sun, was found, at noon, to be | 65° 47' |
| Semidiameter of the sun to be added | 16' |
| Inclination of the visual (horizon) in consequence of the observer's eye being six to seven feet above sea-level, subtract | 3' 13' |
| Horizontal altitude of the center of the sun | 66° 00' |
| Its zenith-distance was found to be | 24° 00' |
| Its declination at that hour was | 10° 30' |
| Latitude of the town | 34° 30' |
To San Zeferino Papa, 2 leagues. From San Diego, 92 leagues.
Saturday, August 26 SP -- We made our day's journey, which was short, in the afternoon. We travelled for two leagues over high hills which were somewhat easier of access than the preceding ones. Midway on the road we passed a village of twenty houses, situated on the shore in a place where the beach was extensive and wide. We came in sight of the Punta de la Concepción, the end of the Canal de Santa Bárbara.
We pitched our camp outside, and to the east, of a canyon. In the canyon there was an Indian town consisting of twenty-four houses. The inhabitants received us, and made us presents, in the same manner as the others. They have canoes and live by fishing. The country they inhabit also has a scarcity of fire-wood, but the land is of good quality, and has an abundance of pasture. The cacique of this town was lame, and, for this reason, the soldiers named his town Ranchería del Cojo.
The latitude of the Punta de la Concepción was determined by the observation of the meridian altitude of the sun, and was found to be 34° 30', the same as that of the Pueblo de San Zeferino.To the Pueblo del Cojo, 2 leagues. From San Diego, 94 leagues.
Sunday, August 27 SP -- We followed the road in sight of the sea, and over level country, towards the west, as far as the Punta de la Concepción; and from this point, which is a little more than a mile from the Pueblo del Cojo, we turned towards the northwest as the coast trends.
We travelled for two leagues and a half, and halted on the northwestern side of a canyon, in which there is an Indian village of twenty hearths, and two hundred and fifty souls, more or less.
An estuary enters this canyon and receives the water of a stream, preventing it from reaching the sea, although the stream emerges from the range with a large flow of water. The natives of the village are very poor; they have no canoes, and live in a half-starved condition. Little can be said in favor of the land they inhabit-it is rugged, desolate, and is lacking in fire-wood.
At this place a soldier lost his sword; he allowed it to be stolen from his belt, but he afterwards recovered it as the Indians who had seen the act ran after the thief who had committed the robbery. For this reason the name of Ranchería de la Espada stuck to the village.To the Ranchería de la Espada, 2 leagues. From San Diego, 96 leagues.
Monday, August 28 SP -- We travelled for two leagues over high land along the shore, but it was easy of access. The watering-place near which we halted was a spring of very good water. There was near it a small, poor Indian village of ten little houses and sixty souls. In sight of our camp, and, at most, a gun shot from it, a tongue of land extended into the sea. At this place we gathered many flints suitable for the firearms, and, for this reason, we called the place Los Pedernales.
From the observation of the meridian altitude of the sun we found that we were in latitude 34° 33'.To Los Pedernales, 2 leagues. From San Diego, 98 leagues.
Tuesday, August 29 SP -- We left Los Pedernales in the afternoon and proceeded for two leagues towards the north-northwest, on high land along the shore, and over sand-dunes. We halted in a canyon where there was an abundance of pasture for the animals, but of the water, which stood in a pool, there was very little. The soldiers called it the Cañada Seca.
Before reaching these sand-dunes the coast is broken and steep with many rocky points extending into the sea.To the Cañada Seca, 2 leagues. From San Diego, 100 leagues.
< Wednesday, August 30 SP -- From the Cañada Seca we went to the Río Grande de San Verardo; about this some natives had given us information by signs upon our arrival at the Cañada Seca. We would not believe, however, that it was at such a short distance from that place, and did not credit them until, at the time of loading the pack animals in the morning, we saw all the inhabitants of the village on the river-men, women, and children-coming to meet us. We arrived at the place after a march of a little less than a league.
The mouth of this river is entirely closed by a sand-bank which we crossed dry-shod The river seems to be dammed up, and is without current. Higher up, however, the current could be seen clearly-incontestable evidence that the water sinks into the sand, and, in this way, reaches the sea.
This river flows through a very beautiful valley containing many willows, and much land capable of producing all kinds of grain. We saw bears of great size, and many of their tracks.To the Río Grande de San Verardo, 1 league. From San Diego, 101 leagues.
Thursday, August 31 SP -- We set out from the Río de SanVerardo in the morning, and travelled for two leagues towards the north over level ground, very thickly covered with wild rosemary and other fragrant bushes, until we reached a canyon where there was an abundance of pasture. We passed directly through it, and, when we ascended its northern side, we discovered an Indian village by the side of a moderately large pond surrounded by low hills. The natives here were poor-they had no houses and we doubted if this place was their permanent abode. They honored us with a dance, and it was the first place where we saw the women dance. Two of these excelled the others; they had a bunch of flowers in their hands, and accompanied the dance with various graceful gestures and movements without getting out of time in their songs.
We called the place the Ranchería del Baile de las Indias.To the Ranchería del Baile de las Indias, 2 leagues. From San Diego, 103 leagues.