Diary of Miguel Costansó
Portola Expedition, 1769-1770
Friday, September 1 SP -- From the Ranchería del Baile de las Indias we directed our course inland, towards the north, leaving the coast in order to avoid the shifting sands of the dunes by which it is bordered, and other difficult places. It was not possible, however, to avoid a mountain chain that crossed our way, and extended from the interior of the country; but the sandy ground did not last long. We then proceeded over high hills, and through canyons containing very good soil and good pasture.We pitched our camp in a large valley, near a lake of great extent containing fresh water-it must have been some two thousand yards long, and as much as five hundred wide, possibly more in some places. We gave to the whole valley the name the Laguna Larga. It is three leagues from the place we set out from in the morning.
There were in this valley two Indian villages: the one small and miserable, the other larger, being composed of several small houses.To the Laguna Larga, 3 leagues. From San Diego, 106 leagues.
Saturday, September 2 SP -- The scouts returned from their exploration in the morning and relieved us from the apprehension they had occasioned us by failing to return to camp on the previous afternoon. The reason for their delay was that they had lost the road on account of the fog which obliged them, on their way back to camp, to spend the night in the valley; they had already reconnoitered the day's march we were to make. This was of three leagues, and crossed the valley which is two leagues wide in the direction-north-northwest-that we followed. The remainder of the road, we travelled over high tablelands as far as the watering-place. This was another large pond, almost circular in form, in a canyon which some sand- dunes obstructed, impounding the water, preventing it from emptying into the sea. The whole canyon was covered with rushes and reeds, the ground was wet and swampy, and entirely impassable. The canyon extended, in its whole length, from east to west.
In the afternoon, as they had seen many tracks of bears, six soldiers went out hunting on horseback, and succeeded in shooting one. It was an enormous animal: it measured fourteen palms from the sole of its feet to the top of its head; its feet were more than a foot long; and it must have weighed over 375 pounds. We ate of the flesh and found it savory and good.
We named this whole place the Laguna Redonda.To the Laguna Redonda, 3 leagues. From San Diego, 109 leagues.
Sunday, September 3 SP -- The people and the animals rested to-day, and the scouts, who had set out to search for a pass through the range, returned in the afternoon, enlarging upon the difficulty they had experienced in reaching even to its foot-a fact we had discovered already by inspecting the country. There were immense sand-dunes along the shore, and on the plain there were creeks, estuaries, and marshes, which formed a labyrinth.
The mountain range we had in sight is the same--in our judgment--that we have been leaving continuously on our right since we set out from San Diego; in some places it recedes from the sea, and in others approaches it, absolutely cutting off the passage along the beach, as happens at this place.
Monday, September 4 SP -- In order to avoid the marshes of the plain and the estuaries that reach to the foot of the mountain range, we directed our course to the west over the sand-dunes; these we crossed at the narrowest point-half a league only- discovered by the scouts. We then descended to the beach, and proceeded along it for about a league to the north-northwest. Turning to the east, we again went inland, crossing the sand-dunes at another narrow place of half a league. We afterwards reached firm ground on a tongue of land between two bodies of water. To the right, there was a pond of fresh water, which the sand-dunes dammed up, and kept from emptying into the sea. To the left, an estuary extended into the plain; we rounded it, travailing towards the north-northeast. We afterwards took a course to the north and entered the range through a pass, or canyon, covered with live-oaks, alders, willows, and other trees. In the same canyon we pitched our camp on the bank of a stream covered with watercress. On this day's march we travelled four leagues.
On the whole road we came upon only one small and wretched Indian village. This part of the country is practically uninhabited.
The Indians of this village, which was only a short distance from our quarters, came in the afternoon to visit us; they brought presents of seeds and some fish, and offered them to us. Their cacique had a large deformity, consisting of a tumor that hung from his neck. The soldiers, when they saw it, gave him the nickname of Buchon, and this name likewise stuck to his village and to the entire place.To the Ranchería del Buchon, 4 leagues. From San Diego, 113 leagues.
Tuesday, September 5 SP -- We continued our march through the same canyon, which turned towards the northwest. After a short distance we left it and made our way over hills and high slopes not far from the coast. The country was rough and difficult of passage, with many ups and downs, yet pleasant and covered with live-oak and white oak. We did not see a single native on this day's march, which was of two leagues. We pitched our camp in a very narrow canyon, surrounded by very high hills, and containing running water and sufficient pasture for our horses.
The place was named the Cañada Angosta.To the Cañada Angosta, 2 leagues. From San Diego, 115 leagues.
Wednesday, September 6 SP -- The scouts returned, enlarging upon the roughness and impenetrability of the road that awaited us on the following day's march. After hearing their account, it was decided to rest at this place and to send pioneers ahead to clear a way through the difficult passages of the mountain range. In this work they occupied the entire day.
Thursday, September 7 SP -- We left the canyon, passing over high steep hills. The bad road continued for more than three leagues, until we descended to another extensive canyon containing many pools of water, in which the horses could not drink because the banks were very miry. This compelled us to prolong the day's march as far as a stream of very good water which we found on our way a league farther on; we pitched our camp on its banks.
In this canyon we saw troops of bears; they had the land plowed up and full of the holes which they make in searching for the roots they live on, which the land produces. The natives also use these roots for food, and there are some of a good relish and taste. Some of the soldiers, attracted by the chase because they had been successful on two other occasions, mounted their horses, and this time succeeded in shooting one. They, however, experienced the fierceness and anger of these animals-when they feel themselves to be wounded, headlong they charge the hunter, who can only escape by the swiftness of his horse, for the first burst of speed is more rapid than one might expect from the bulk and awkwardness of such brutes. Their endurance and strength are not easily overcome, and only the sure aim of the hunter, or the good fortune of hitting them in the head or heart, can lay them low at the first shot. The one they succeeded in killing received nine bullet wounds before it fell, and this did not happen until they hit him in the head. Other soldiers mounted on mules had the boldness to fight one of these animals.They fired at him seven or eight times and, doubtless, he died from the wounds, but he maimed two of the mules, and, by good fortune, the men who were mounted upon them extricated themselves.
The canyon was given the name of Los Osos.To the Cañada de Los Osos 4 leagues. From San Diego, 119 leagues.
Friday, September 8 SP -- We made this day's march through the same canyon, which steadily turns to the west, and followed it as far as the sea. We encountered some obstacles on our road,consisting of deep gullies which it was necessary to make ready for the passage of the animals. At a distance of two leagues,we halted on a hill in sight of the sea, and near a stream of very good water covered with watercress. The land was pleasant, of good quality, with abundant pasture and quite a number of trees.
Not far from our quarters there was a small and miserable Indian village with hardly sixty souls. They lived in the open,without house or hearth. They came to visit us, and offered us a kind of pinole made of roasted seeds, which tasted good to all of us and had the flavor of almonds.
An estuary of immense size, which to us seemed a harbor, enters this canyon on the south side; but its mouth, opening to the southwest, is covered with reefs that cause a furious surf. At a short distance to the north of the mouth, and in front of our camp, there was a very large rock, shaped like a round head.
At high tide it becomes an island, and is then separated-a little less than a gunshot-from the shore. From this rock the coast extends to the west-northwest as far as a great point of land which we could discern terminating in the sea. Between this point and another headland we were leaving behind, the coast forms a large bay, providing shelter from the south, southwest, and west winds, if it have sufficient anchorage.To the Cañada de Los Osos, 2 leagues. From San Diego, 121 leagues.
Saturday, September 9 SP -- We proceeded for three leagues along the beach, where there were very many pools of clear water which comes down from the mountain range-at this point only a short distance from the sea. We halted in a moderately wide canyon; into this an estuary entered into which flowed a stream of good water that came from the mountains. The hills inclosing this canyon on the west extended to the sea and obstructed the passage along the beach. The road was left free, however, to the north and northwest; two branches of the canyon followed these directions and gave us the choice of the course that we might wish to take.
| The horizontal altitude of the lower limb of the sun, observed with the English octant, facing the sun, was found, at noon, to be | 59° 21' |
| Semidiameter of the sun to be added | 16' |
| Inclination of the visual (horizon) in consequence of the observer's eye being six to seven feet above sea level, subtract | 3' 13 |
| Horizontal altitude of the center of the sun | 59° 34' |
| Its zenith distance was found to be | 30° 26' |
| Its declination at that hour was | 5° 1' |
| Latitude of the place | 35° 27' |
This place was given the name of El Estero.To El Estero, 3 leagues. From San Diego, 124 leagues.
Sunday, September 10 SP -- We entered the branch of the canyon that turned to the north-northwest, and followed it for a distance of three leagues. We left it afterwards-because it turned towards the north-and came to the top of some low hills to the northwest. From this point we beheld the mountain range covered with pines and a very deep canyon thickly grown with willows, poplars, pines, and other trees, in which ran a small river with considerable water, that some maintained was the Río del Carmelo.
We pitched our camp in the upper part of the canyon. This was named La Cañada del Osito because some Indians from the mountains, who came down to visit us, brought with them a bear cub they were taming and offered it to us. There must have been as many as sixty men (in the party).To the Cañada del Osito, 3 leagues. From San Diego, 127 leagues.
Monday, September 11 SP -- We descended to the shore, and followed the beach, which turned to the northwest. We covered a league and a half over a good road with watering-places at every step. We halted on a steep cliff at the edge of the sea, in the northwestern part of a canyon, through which emptied a stream of very good water; there was pasture and fire-wood in abundance.
In this place the meridian altitude of the sun was observed, and from this we found the latitude to be 35° 35'.To El Cantil, 1 league. From San Diego, 128 leagues.
Tuesday, September 12 SP -- We followed the coast over high hills and rolling lands. The road was frequently interrupted by ditches and gullies (all full of water), and the making of it gave the pioneers much to do-now cutting brush with hatchets and machetes, now opening the way with pickaxes and crowbars. We arrived at a point of land terminating in the sea, and passed it to the left; entering through a gorge in the range, we continued our march to the north-northwest, crossing different canyons and gullies.We halted on a slope, in the upper part of a canyon or deep water-course, which had sufficient water in a pool. We travelled for about three leagues on this day's march.To the Arroiada Honda, 2 leagues. From San Diego, 130 leagues.
Wednesday, September 13 SP -- We travelled for two leagues, part of the way through the canyon or water-course, and part over cliffs in sight of the ocean. We pitched our camp between two streams of good water, and at the foot of the mountain range which at this point is very high and terminates in the sea; it seemed, however, to permit of passage through an opening we saw to the east. We thought that this might be the range known by the name of Santa Lucía in the sailing-directions of the pilots who navigated these seas, and, particularly, by those who sailed with Sebastián Vizcaíno. Therefore, our commander, desirous of assuring himself on this point, and with the object of exploring the land with the necessary thoroughness-rightly presuming that this would be the most difficult passage to surmount on the whole journey (as the old accounts dwell upon its ruggedness)-resolved to rest at this place, and to send out the most intelligent scouts to examine the country completely, penetrating as far as they could without limiting the time of their return. So eight scouts, with Captain Fernando de Rivera, set out after midday.To the foot of the Sierra de Santa Lucía, 2 leagues. From San Diego, 132 leagues.
Thursday, September 14 SP -- At nightfall the scouts returned confirming our fears in regard to the difficulty and roughness of the range. The report they gave us of having found a pass served, however, as a consolation, even though it was necessary to make a road with crowbar and pickaxe.
Friday, September 15 SP -- Very early in the morning the pioneers were ordered out to begin the work. They returned at night, having cleared the road for the first day's march that we had to make through the mountain range.
Saturday, September 16 SP -- We entered through the canyon which allowed us passage into the mountains, following it now on one side and now on the other as the lay of the land permitted. This canyon was very narrow; in some places the hills surrounding it were cut away at the foot, and were all inaccessible, not only to the men but even to goats and deer. A stream of water, which we crossed many times before we arrived at the place where we encamped, ran in the bottom of the canyon; it here divides into two branches: the one extending to the east-northeast, the other to the north. Somewhat farther to the northwest we saw a hill which was not as steep as those in the rest of the canyon; over the slope of this hill we had to ascend, first opening the way. We travelled for a little more than a league on this day's march.
After the people had eaten, we began the work, in which all without exception took part. The men were distributed in several parties from the camp to the place we had determined upon as the end of the day's march. We succeeded in finishing the whole section in the afternoon.To the Sierra de Santa Lucía, 1 league. From San Diego, 133 leagues.
Sunday, September 17 SP -- We ascended the slope, and, following the crest of the hills which formed the north side of the canyon we have mentioned, we descended another very long slope, and pitched our camp in a hollow where some natives lived together without either house or home. There could not have been more than sixty souls, a very mild and obsequious people. We covered, at the most, one league on this day's march, and we gave the place the name of the Hoya de Santa Lucía.To the Hoya de Santa Lucía, 1 league. From San Diego, 134 leagues.
Monday, September 18 SP -- Very early in the morning the people set out for the work of preparing the road; very few remained in the camp. Despite their working the whole day they had to return without having completed the stretch over which we had to pass on the following day's march.
Tuesday, September 19 SP -- The whole day and the greater part of the people were employed in the same work, which was finished.
Wednesday, September 20 SP -- Early in the morning we set out and began to ascend a very rough slope. We afterwards proceeded along the side of a narrow and deep canyon, which contained running water. We descended into the canyon, crossed the stream two or three times that runs through it-the canyon was somewhat wider at this place-and again ascended a very long slope. From the top of the hill we commanded the mountain range, which extended in all directions, without seeing its end on any side-a sad outlook for these poor travellers, tired and worn out by the fatigue of the journey, by the task of clearing rough passages and breaking roads through hills, woods, dunes, and swamps. The cold began to be felt; we had already many soldiers afflicted with scurvy and rendered incapable of service, the toil of which increased for those who remained on their feet. We covered two leagues on this day's march, and halted in a small and exceedingly narrow canyon in which we hardly found room enough for our camp. The watering-place was small; the water stood in pools; the pasture was extremely scarce. There were three bands of Indians in the immediate neighborhood-wandering people without either house or home. At this time they were engaged in collecting pine nuts, which the many trees of these mountains yield in abundance.
The scouts, who had set out in the afternoon to explore the country, returned with news of having seen a water-course, and a canyon, convenient for the removal of our camp, having sufficient pasture for the horses, which were in great need of it. They likewise told us that the range was somewhat more passable in the direction they followed to the east-northeast, although it was far from the course that was convenient for us to take. They assured us, however, that the country gave signs of being more easily traversed farther on in a better direction. Through the same Sierra de Santa Lucía to the Real de log Piñones, 2 leagues. From San Diego, 136 leagues.
Thursday, September 21 SP -- There were several bad passages to clear in order to reach the canyon that had been explored, and to do this the pioneers set out early in the morning. We deferred our march until the afternoon, in order to give them time to finish the work.
The march was resumed after the people had eaten, and we proceeded for one league over broken country-less rugged, however, than that previously traversed. We pitched camp on the bank of a small river containing much running water, which, in several pools or eddies, held a considerable number of trout, and other species of fish.
We gave the place the name of Río de las Truchas.To the Arroyo de las Truchas, 1 league. From San Diego, 137 leagues.
Friday, September 22 SP -- We rested at this place so as to give time for the scouts to examine the country carefully, and also to allow the animals to recuperate somewhat, as they were in bad condition.
Saturday, September 23 SP -- After nightfall, the scouts returned from their reconnaissance with good news. They said that they had pushed forward for twelve or fourteen leagues, and had followed a canyon as far as its outlet in the sea; in this, however, they were greatly deceived-as we all found out afterwards-by the heavy fog which filled the canyon towards the sea. They believed, also, that they had seen the beach, but this was still quite distant. Through the canyon flowed a river which they took to be the Carmelo, as they saw large trees on its banks- poplars, willows, oaks, and other kinds. With this news the men were greatly rejoiced; they all bestirred themselves, supposing that the goal towards which we were marching was only a short distance away; with desire we anticipated our arrival.
Sunday, September 24 SP -- We set out and proceeded for about two leagues, over low-lying hills, towards the north, and, at times, towards the northeast. We descended a slope; at the foot of it flowed a considerable stream of water. Its course was eastward, and turned, afterwards, to the north, uniting with the Río de las Truchas-as we understood from the natives. The whole country over which we travelled, especially from this stream onward, was covered on both sides with white and live-oaks, as high and of as great girth as can be found in the finest parks of Europe. All the trees were loaded with acorns, as yet unripe; the crop would be so great that many herds of swine could be maintained. The Indians use them in making their atole-of which we have partaken in various places-and they also roast them, and eat them as bread.
On the margin of this stream there was a village of very poor, wandering Indians, but they showed themselves friendly and obsequious.To the same Sierra de Santa Lucía, 2 leagues. From San Diego, 139 leagues.
Monday, September 25 SP -- Forewarned that we would not find water until we reached the river, of which the scouts gave us information, we set out in the afternoon, after watering the animals. We halted in the bottom of a canyon, a little more than a league to the northeast from the place which we left. The ground of this canyon is stony; in the canyon there are many white oaks and live-oaks. Through the same Sierra de Santa Lucía, 1 league. From San Diego, 140 leagues.
Tuesday, September 26 SP -- We travelled towards the northeast through the same canyon that we followed on the preceding day. The canyon gradually became narrower, and the rocky white hills which surrounded it join completely at its end, but a pass was left that was not at all difficult, by which one could descend to the bed of the river which the scouts believed to be the Carmelo. Here there was a slope of no great importance, very thickly covered with different bushes, among others some wild chestnuts, the fruit of which has a bitter taste. At the foot of the slope was a band of wandering Indians, which must have numbered more than two hundred souls. They had no houses, and lived in the open near a fallen oak tree. For this reason the place was named Ranchería del Palo Caido. These natives offered us a quantity of pine nuts and seeds. We remained a short time among them, and then passed on in order to make our camp on the bank of the river which most of us believed to be the Carmelo.
The borders of this river are very thickly covered on both sides with willows, poplars, oaks, and other kinds of trees; and the whole plain that it waters is luxuriant of foliage. The soil seems to be of good quality, and produces a variety of fragrant plants, among others the rosemary, which abounded, the sage, and rosebushes loaded with blossoms.
This day's march was of three leagues, and the camp, which we placed upon the plain adjoining the river, came to be known by the name of El Chocolate.To the Real del Chocolate, 3 leagues. From San Diego, 143 leagues.
Wednesday, September 27 SP -- The pioneers having cleared the land along the river, we crossed it where it divided into three branches below a body of standing water which had formed large pools, and which contained many fish. Some of the soldiers said that they had seen fish (in it) weighing as much as eight or ten pounds.
We left the river-bottom, and continued our march over level open country, approaching a little the hills that bounded the canyon on the north, until we reached again the steep bank of the river-bottom which paralleled these hills. They turned to the northwest, and obliged us to take to the slopes of the hills we had on our right. When the lay of the land permitted, we continued our march over level ground, without going very far from the river. We pitched our camp near some pools in a spot provided with pasture, which is not abundant in all parts of the canyon. At this place there was a poplar tree which we enclosed within our camp, and for this reason the place was called Real del Alamo. It is four leagues from the Real del Chocolate.To-day we saw many herds of antelopes crossing the plain, but none of them came within range.To the Real del Alamo, 4 leagues. From San Diego, 147 leagues.
Thursday, September 28 SP -- There was not, nor could we desire, a better road than that through the same canyon, which opened towards the northwest and gradually widened as we drew nearer to the coast, following the course of the river, which meandered without hindrance among the hills that bordered the coast.
The day's march was four leagues. We pitched our camp in the river- bottom amid a clump of live-oaks. The land at this place was of a whitish color, whence came its name of Real Blanco. During the march we again saw several herds of antelopes, but they were out of range and up in the hills.To the Real Blanco, 4 leagues. From San Diego, 151 leagues.
Friday, September 29 SP -- This day's march was a little shorter than the one of yesterday. We proceeded for three leagues and a half over whitish, treacherous ground into which the animals sank; it, however, had a greater abundance of pasture.
We halted beside the river, which at this place flowed with greater force and noise. Many antelopes were seen during the march.This camp was given the name of Los Cazadores, because here we had come unexpectedly upon some natives, who were so engrossed in their hunting that they did not see us until we were upon them; then, startled, they fled, and no efforts of ours were sufficient to induce them to return.To the Real de los Cazadores, 3 1/2 leagues. From San Diego, 154 1/2leagues.
Saturday, September 30 SP -- We proceeded for another three and a half leagues, down-stream, to the northwest and west-northwest. The hills gradually became lower, and, spreading out at the same time, made the canyon wider; at this place, in sight of two low points formed by the hills, it extends for more than three leagues. The soil was of the same quality as that we have mentioned above-treacherous footing, full of fissures that crossed it in all directions, whitish in color, and scant of pasture.
From our camp we could hear the sound of the ocean, but we could not see the shore. Therefore, desirous of knowing on what part of the coast we were, and convinced that we could not be very far from the desired port of Monterey, and that the mountain range which we were leaving behind was assuredly that of Santa Lucía-as we inferred from the account written by Father Torquemada, which treats of the expedition and voyage of General Sebastián Vizcaíno, and from the sailing-directions of the pilot Cabrera Bueno-our commander resolved that the scouts should set out promptly to explore the coast and the mouth of the river.
They returned saying that the river emptied into an estuary which entered the canyon from the sea; that the beach, bordered by sand-dunes, had been seen to the north and south, the coast forming an immense bay; and that, to the south, there was a low hill covered with trees like pines which terminated in a point in the sea.
On hearing this news some began to suspect that we might have left behind us the port we were seeking, by reason of the great circuit we had made in passing through the mountain range which we traversed in a northeasterly and northerly direction until we descended to the canyon which permitted us to resume the road along the beach towards the northwest and west-north-west. They added that the Punta de Pinos, which appeared to the south, was a strong indication of it, for it is one of the landmarks given in the sailing-directions for the port of Monterey. They also stated that the large bay, about which the scouts gave particulars, was, without doubt, the one that lay between the Punta de Año Nuevo and the above mentioned Punta de Pinos.
These reasons somewhat worried all of us, and to these could be added the fact that we were above 36° 30' north latitude; so it was considered a most necessary measure to reconnoiter this point before undertaking anything else. Through the same canyon, 3 1/2 leagues. From San Diego, 158 leagues.