Diary of Miguel Costansó
Portola Expedition, 1769-1770
Monday, January 1, 1770 SP -- From the Valle de la Laguna Larga we marched to the Real del Baile de las Indias, a distance of three leagues from the former; now, however, we did not find the party of Indians, which had treated us so well the first time.
Bears are to be met with in this district. On the way, the soldiers discovered among some thickets, a very large she-bear with three cubs following her. Horses were immediately saddled, and some of the soldiers went to give chase. They succeeded in killing the mother and one little cub, and with this provision there was a great feast in the camp.
The meat of these animals has a very good flavor and taste, but at that time it seemed better than the best veal.To the Baile de las Indias, 3 leagues. From the Ensenada de Pinos, 59 1/2 leagues.
Tuesday, January 2 SP -- From the Baile de las Indias we marched to the Cañada Seca, taking the precaution to carry some water from the Río de San Verardo, where we did not stop because this is a place without fire-wood; the distance is three leagues.To the Cañada Seca, 3 leagues. From the Ensenada de Pinos, 62 1/2 leagues.
Wednesday, January 3 SP -- Early in the morning, some natives from the Río de San Verardo came to the camp bringing some provision of pinole and atole. We then moved our camp to the Punta de los Pedernales, a distance of two leagues.
From the Punta de los Pedernales, the Punta de la Concepción-the most westerly point of the Canal de Santa Bárbara- can be seen to the southeast, 8° east; the most westerly point of the Isla de San Verardo, to the south, 33° east; the westerly point of the Isla de Santa Cruz, directly to the southeast.To the Punta de los Pedernales, 2 leagues. From the Ensenada de Pinos, 64 leagues.
Thursday, January 4 SP -- We left Los Pedernales. We passed the Ranchería de la Espada without stopping, and arrived at the Pueblo del Temi or Cacique Cojo, a distance of four and a half leagues from the former place.
The Indians of the town gave us a quantity of fresh and dried fish, many sardines, and bonitos, so that, thanks to God, we begin to see abundance in the camp.
For another thing, the country, covered with beautiful green grass, offered excellent pasture for the horses, so that we had the satisfaction of seeing them grow appreciably stronger every day.
The weather, from the time we left the Cañada de los Osos, had been very clear. Only the nights were cold; the days were more like those of spring than of winter.
POSITIONS OF THE ISLANDS FROM THIS PLACE.
| San Bernardo: western point | S 12° SE |
| eastern point | S 17° SE |
| Santa Cruz: western point | S 30° SE |
| eastern point | S 41° SE |
| Santa Bárbara: western point | SE 8° E |
| eastern point | SE 22° E |
The island of San Bernardo, in the language of the natives, is called Thoa; that of Santa Cruz is called Lotolic; that of Santa Bárbara, Anajup.To the Pueblo del Cojo, 4 1/2 leagues. From the Ensenada de Pinos, 68 1/2 leagues.
Friday, January 5 SP -- In the morning, we left the Pueblo del Cojo or Punta de la Concepción. We travelled for two leagues to the east, and halted near the town which was given the name of San Zeferino Papa.
There was enough fish in this village for all the men.
POSITIONS.
| San Bernardo: western point | S 5° SW |
| eastern point | S 1° SW |
| Santa Cruz: western point | S 5° SE |
| eastern point | S 25° SE |
| Santa Bárbara: western point | S 35° SE |
| eastern-point | SE 9° E |
| Falsa Vela: middle point | SE 28° E |
At sunset, with the same compass, the center of the sun was ascertained to be west, 36° southwest; its declination was 22° 32 ' at that hour, with a slight difference. The altitude or latitude of the place, by observation made on August 25, is 34° 30 ', and, consequently the western amplitude of the sun would be 27° 42 '; this being subtracted from the magnetic amplitude gives the variation of the compass on these coasts of 8° 18 '.To San Zeferino, 2 leagues. From the Ensenada de Pinos, 70 1/2 leagues.
Saturday, January 6 SP -- From San Zeferino Papa it is two short leagues to San Luis Rey. We covered the distance before noon and halted at the same place as on the former occasion.
POSITIONS OF THE ISLANDS FROM THIS PLACE.
| San Bernardo: western end | S 23° SW |
| eastern end | S 8° SW |
| Santa Cruz: western end | S 3° SW |
| eastern end | S 8 ° SE |
| Santa Bárbara: western end | S 13° SE |
| eastern end | SE 2° E |
| Punta de la Conversión | SE 23° E |
To San Luis, 2 leagues. From the Ensenada de Pinos, 72 1/2 leagues.
Sunday, January 7 SP -- From San Luis Rey we passed to the town of San Guido, a distance of two short leagues over a bad road; this was covered in the morning.
POSITIONS.
| Punta de la Concepción to the | W 5° SW |
| San Bernardo: western end | S 28° SW |
| eastern end | S 22° SW |
| Santa Cruz: western end | S 12° SW |
| eastern end | S 10° SE |
| Santa Bárbara: western end | S 21° SE |
| eastern end to the | SE |
To San Guido, 2 leagues. From the Ensenada de Pinos, 76 leagues.
Monday, January 8 SP -- In the morning, we moved our camp from San Guido to San Luis Obispo, a distance of three short leagues from the former place.
POSITIONS.
| Punta de la Concepción to the | W 1° SW |
| San Bernardo: western end | |
| eastern end | |
| Santa Cruz: western end | S 25° SW |
| eastern end | S 4° SW |
| Santa Bárbara: western end | S 2° SE |
| eastern end | S 42° SE |
| Falsa Vela to the | SE 2° E |
| Punta de la Conversión | E 26° SE |
To San Luis Obispo, 3 leagues. From the Ensenada de Pinos, 79 1/2 leagues.
Tuesday, January 9 SP -- From San Luis Obispo we went to the the Pueblos de la Isla, a distance of two leagues and a half, over a somewhat difficult road and through a country covered with live-oaks and other trees. We halted to the east of these towns in a clear and open place.To the Pueblos de la Isla, 2 leagues. From the Ensenada de Pinos, 87 1/2 leagues.
Wednesday, January 10 SP -- We set out from the Pueblos de la Isla, desirous of reaching the Pueblo de la Carpintería, five leagues and a half distant, with the purpose of leaving behind all the obstructions along the channel while the ground was dried by sun and wind. We passed through the Pueblo de la Laguna without stopping, and arrived quite late at the Pueblo de la Carpintería, near which we occupied the same camping-place as on August 17, when on our way up the country.
There was no fish either in this town or in the Pueblo de la Laguna; it may be that the Indians have not applied themselves to fishing, or that this coast is without fish at this season.To the Pueblo de la Carpintería, 5 leagues. From the Ensenada de Pinos, 86 1/2 leagues.
Thursday, January 11 SP -- From La Carpintería we passed to La Asumpta, the last town on the channel. We passed through the Pueblo del Bailarín without stopping. All these towns, which on our outward journey had plenty of fish and furnished us with much of it, were now without any, and we saw that they were in great need, so that, had we not made some provision at the towns behind, we should all have been badly off. This day 's march was five leagues.
From this place the most westerly islands of the channel could no longer be seen. That of Santa Bárbara was the only one observed.
| Its western end was to the | SW 22° W |
| Its eastern end was to the | S 35° W |
| False Vela to the | S 6° W |
| Las Mesitas, three in number, to the | S 40° E |
| A low point of sand, at a distance of three miles to the | S 33° E |
Note: Las Mesitas are small islands of moderate elevation above the sea, and level on top, to the west of La Falsa Vela, another islet of greater elevation, which, the first time we saw it, appeared to us to be a vessel.To La Asumpta, 5 leagues. From the Ensenada de Pinos, 91 1/2 leagues.
Friday, January 12 SP -- Upon leaving the Canal de Santa Bárbara we entered the Cañada de Santa Clara, through which we passed in a southeasterly direction in order to enter the Sierra de la Conversión, it being our intention to reach the Cañada de los Robles or Encinos, otherwise called Santa Catalina. It appeared to us that we must pass over the mountain range through an opening that we saw in the same direction.
We forded the Río de Santa Clara and took a guide from the Indian village which is near its banks, close to which we had encamped on August 13. We followed a low ridge and descended to a plain of considerable extent which, on its western side, terminated in the sea, while, to the east, it extended to some other low hills which we ascended. We afterwards entered a very large canyon trending to the southeast, which we followed. We halted near an Indian village containing somewhat more or less than sixty people, very poor and thin. At this place there was sufficient water, fire-wood, and pasture. The day 's march was six leagues.To the Sierra de la Conversión, 6 leagues. From the Ensenada de Pinos, 97 1/2 leagues.
Saturday, January 13 SP -- We took a guide from this village who led us through an opening that was very easy of passage, by which we crossed a large part of the mountain range. We afterwards ascended a slope down which a stream ran; its source was a very large spring, covered with watercress. Having ascended this slope we found ourselves on level ground in another very beautiful canyon, covered with grass and live-oaks. This canyon ended in another slope, somewhat difficult of passage, and at the foot of it there was a small Indian village where the inhabitants gave us roasted mescales in exchange for glass beads. All this country has beautiful scenery and plenty of water. We ascended the slope and from its summit we saw another very beautiful plain on which there was another Indian village near which we halted. Close by there was much water, and fire-wood and an abundance of pasture for the animals. The day 's march was two leagues and a half. Through the same mountain range, 2 leagues. From the Ensenada de Pinos, 99 1/2 leagues.
Sunday, January 14 SP -- Two of the oldest natives of the town offered to serve us as guides to lead us out of the mountain range. In setting out they took a course to the southeast which was the direction that best suited us, it being the shortest way. After travelling half a league or a little more from the camp, they began, however, to lead us through the most rugged and intricate part of the range. We found out, although late, that we could not pass through those brambles with the pack-animals. We then turned back, and, passing near their village, took other guides who led us over a better road following, it is true, an entirely different direction, which was to the northeast. They led us over some accessible low hills and, after leaving them behind, we reached level country to the east. At a distance of two short leagues, we halted near a small village; the inhabitants insisted that we remain with them, (saying) that we should not pass on, as the watering- place was far off and as it was now too late to reach it before sunset.
We were not disappointed in stopping at this place which was called El Triunfo. It is a plain of great beauty and extent, overgrown on all sides with live-oaks and white oaks, and having much pasture and water.To El Triunfo, 2 leagues. From the Ensenada de Pinos, 101 1/2 leagues.
Monday, January 15 SP -- We took guides at El Triunfo (to lead us) as far as another small village, a league and a half distant. At this village they gave us other guides who, leading us to the northeast, caused us great uneasiness. In spite of all the signs we made to them to lead us east or southeast they, however, persisted in refusing, telling us that the country was impassable in those directions, and we had no reason to regret having believed them. A short time afterwards, they turned to the east, ascending a long but gradual slope. From its summit we discovered what we were looking for, that is, the Valle de los Robles or Santa Catalina. We descended to it and, travelling to the southeast, arrived late at our old camping-place at the Real de los Robles which we had occupied on August 5 and 6. To-day 's march was six leagues and a half.To the Real de los Robles, 6 leagues. From the Ensenada de Pinos, 107 1/2 leagues.
Tuesday, January 16 SP -- We now proceeded with a better knowledge of the country and, knowing where we were going, we discussed the direction we had to follow with greater certainty; besides this, the mountains furnished us points and determined places which served as landmarks to ascertain our position. Thus we greatly shortened our road.
From Los Robles, without leaving the same valley, we continued to the southeast, and, instead of passing in an easterly direction over the mountain range which borders it, and over the road we followed on our outward journey, we cut across the mountain range in a southeasterly direction without losing any ground. Fortune also aided us, allowing us to find a gorge which permitted our passage without difficulty to the plain of the Ojo de Agua de los Alisos. We were now free of all the obstructions of the mountains, as from this point the country is level as far as San Diego. We made three leagues and a half on this day 's march and halted among some low hills on the edge of the mountain range, a little way from a stream which sinks into the sand not far from its source.To the plain of the Ojo de Agua de los Alisos, 3 1/2 leagues. From the Ensenada de Pinos, 111 leagues.
Wednesday, January 17 SP -- On entering the plain we saw towards the east a chain of mountains covered with snow, which we had also seen on entering the Cañada de Santa Clara.
From the low hills which we were leaving we likewise saw the Río de la Porciúncula or, at least, the fringe of trees lining its banks. Hence it was only necessary to direct our course towards it, crossing the plain towards the southeast. We reached the river and forded it; observing from the sand, rubbish, fallen trees, and pools on both sides that there had been, a few days before, a great freshet which had caused it to overflow its banks. We proceeded for three leagues more, as far as the Valle de San Miguel, and halted there in the same place we had occupied on July 30.To the Valle de San Miguel, 5 leagues. From the Ensenada de Pinos, 116 leagues.
Thursday, January 18 SP -- We set out through the mouth of the Valle de San Miguel which is very thickly wooded. For a long time we continued to the southwest following the river which, rising in a large spring in the same opening, merits the name we gave it. Its banks are covered with willows and some small poplars. We forded the river and reached level ground, travelling to the southeast as far as the Río de los Temblores; this we likewise forded. It carried more water than the Porciúncula. We covered six long leagues on this day 's march.To the Río de los Temblores, 6 leagues. From the Ensenada de Pinos, 122 leagues.
Friday, January 19 SP -- From the Río de los Temblores we went to the Aguage del Padre Gómez. The whole way is over level country. This place has little fire-wood. The day 's march was four leagues.To the Aguage del Padre Gómez, 4 leagues. From the Ensenada de Pinos, 126 leagues.
Saturday, January 20 SP -- From the Aguage del Padre Gómez the road is hilly as far as San Francisco Solano, a distance of three leagues. At this place there is a stream which carried a great deal of water when we passed it on July 24; we marvelled greatly on seeing it now completely dry, after there had been so much rain in the whole district. This we attributed to the fact that the stream must receive the water of the snows from some of the snow-capped mountains we saw inland; it probably does not flow except when the snow melts. As there was no object in remaining in sight of this, we continued for two leagues farther until we reached the canyon called Cañada del Incendio or Cañada de Santa María Magdalena. The stream in this canyon had also dried up, but pools remained in which there was sufflcient water for the men and horses. During the night some of the soldiers who were sick with diarrhea and tenesmus became seriously ill. There is plenty of fire-wood in this place.To Santa María Magdalena, 5 leagues. From the Ensenada de Pinos, 131 leagues.
Sunday, January 21 SP -- -From Santa María Magdalena or Cañada del Incendio we want to the Cañada del Bautismo. We found the watering-place dried up and we had to go farther in search of water. We found it in a stream within a canyon, a little more than a league from the Cañada del Bautismo. There was enough pasture and fire-wood..
March to the water, 4 leagues. From the Ensenada de Pinos, 135 leagues.
Monday, January 22 SP -- We passed through Los Rosales and the Cañada de Santa Margarita, without stopping until we reached the Valle de San Juan Capistrano. It was a march of six leagues over low-lying hills. We saw in the canyons that end in the valley various ponds which we had not seen on passing in July of last year; these were formed by the rains that had fallen in the intervening period.To the Valle de San Juan Capistrano, 6 leagues. From the Ensenada de Pinos, 141 leagues.
Tuesday, January 23 SP -- From San Juan Capistrano we went to San Jacome de la Marca, a day 's march of seven leagues, which was equal to three of those we made when coming: the distances of the latter are, from San Juan to Santa Sinforosa, two leagues; to San Alejos, two more; and three leagues to San Jacome.To San Jacome, 7 leagues. From the Ensenada de Pinos, 148 leagues.
Wednesday, January 24 SP -- We were nearing San Diego and varied were the opinions among us about the condition in which we should find the new settlement that we had left at its very beginning, more than six months ago. Each one discussed the matter according to his temperament and the mood affecting him. Some, seeing things in a favorable light, expected to find there every comfort and help; others grieved, considering its weak state and the few resources we had left it.
In truth, all of us were returning with a misgiving lest, through the continued force of the maladies, and the mortality among the people, the settlement had become a place of solitude. On the other hand, there was every reason to fear the evil disposition of the natives of San Diego, whose greediness to rob can only be restrained by superior power and authority, and we feared lest they had dared to commit some outrage against the mission and its small garrison. As we had obtained no news whatever along the coast concerning the ships, notwithstanding our efforts in that direction, we had fears in anticipation that in San Diego we should meet with a like disappointment.
While we were still engaged with these thoughts and discussions, which for days had been wearying us, we received an unexpected pleasure at the sight of fresh tracks of men and horses, at more than half a league from the presidio which we saw soon afterwards.
As soon as we saw the palisade inclosure and the humble buildings which it contained, we gave a salute, discharging our arms-the first announcement to its occupants of our arrival. They immediately came out with the greatest joy to receive us in their arms.
We found the missionary fathers, Fray Junípero Serra, president of the missions, Fray Juan Viscaíno, and Fray Fernando Parron, in good health; the first and the last mentioned were still convalescing from the common sickness of scurvy which, even now, afflicted various soldiers-the veterans we had left behind as well as those of the presidio-and christianized Californian Indians. We learned from them how that, a few weeks after our departure, God had taken to Himself all those we had left sick in their beds; but that, through the charitable and tireless devotion of the surgeon, Don Pedro Prat, those in whom the disease had not taken such a firm hold during the sea-voyage, had recovered. We also learned that those who had subsequently fallen sick, which included everyone, as the disease spared none, had been restored to health. Experience thus proved, in this instance, how opportune was the wise decision of him who sent a man of this profession and of such commendable ability (with the expedition), and how useful such persons are in any colony or new settlement.
They likewise told us that, on August 15, the Indians of the villages nearest the camp, influenced solely by their cupidity and desire to rob, took advantage of a favorable opportunity to throw themselves upon the camp with the intention of robbing it, and of carrying away what they could; that upon meeting with some resistance from the few people who were at the time in camp-as the larger part of the garrison was away-they attempted to use violence, having recourse to their weapons; that, at the first discharge of their arrows, they killed a muleteer and wounded the reverend father Fray Juan Vizcaíno; that our men who were in a condition to take up arms fired at them, killing three of the natives and wounding several, and obliging them to retire with this punishment. From that time, however, the natives had not ceased to cause some damage, and had killed some horses and wounded others with arrows, but they did this at night and without being seen.
Port and Presidio of San Diego, February 7, 1770 MIGUEL COSTANSO.
I certify that this is an exact copy of the original which is in the Secretaría de Cámara of this viceroyalty which is in my charge. Mexico, June 20, 1770. Don Francisco Xavier Machado Fiesco.