Diary of Father Pedro Font
Colonizing Expedition, 1775-1776
September 29, 1775 SP -- Most of the people, pack-animals, and horses of the expedition now being collected the number of them I do not put down, as I did not succeed in ascertaining it the mass to the Most Blessed Virgin of Guadalupe was sung for a successful journey. Here we chose for our patron, together with the archangel St. Michael, and St. Francis, our father. After mass, preparations were completed for the march, which was not begun until half-past four in the afternoon, as this was the first day. We set out from the presidio of San Miguel de Horcasitas, and, a little after five, halted near the river on the other side, having travelled one short league to the Northwest.
September 30 SP -- We set out from the vicinity of the Río de San Miguel at nine in the morning, and arrived, after midday, at Chupisonora, having travelled some four leagues to the north-northwest.
October 1 SP -- We remained here today, because some pack-animals which were delayed yesterday did not arrive.
October 2 SP -- We set out from Chupisonora at two in the afternoon, and, at six, arrived at La Palma, having travelled five leagues to the north-northwest.
October 3 SP -- We set out from La Palma at a quarter to eight in the morning, and, about one in the afternoon, arrived at the Charco del Canelo, having travelled six leagues to the north-northwest.
October 4 SP -- We set out from the Charco del Canelo at half-past seven in the morning, and, at one in the afternoon, halted in the Puerto de los Conejos, having travelled some six long leagues to the north-northwest.
October 5 SP -- We set out from the Puerto de los Conejos at half-past eight. in the morning, and, at two in the afternoon, halted at the Charco de Gauna, having travelled some seven long leagues to the north-northwest.
October 6 SP -- We set out from the Charco de Gauna at half-past eight in the morning, and, at noon, arrived at the banks of the river of the town of Santa Ana, having travelled five leagues to the north-northwest.
October 7 SP -- We remained here, because three soldiers had to stay behind to look for some loaded mules. I observed the latitude of this town with the astronomical quadrant of the expedition and found it to be 30° 38 1/2' so I say: In the town of Santa Ana, October 7, 1775, meridian altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 53° 28'.
October 8 SP -- We set out from the town of Santa Ana at half-past nine in the morning, and, at two in the afternoon, halted at Santa María Magdalena, a town of visitation from the mission of San Ignacio, having travelled some six leagues, northeast by east.
October 9 SP -- We set out from the town of Santa María Magdalena at nine in the morning, and, at half-past ten, arrived at the mission of San Ignacio, having travelled two leagues, northeast by east.
October 10 SP -- We remained at this mission in order to rearrange some packs of provisions. I observed the latitude of this mission and found it to be 30° 47 1/2' so I say: In the mission of San Ignacio, October 10, 1775, meridian altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 52° 10'.
October 11 SP -- We set out from San Ignacio at half-past ten in the morning, and, at half-past one in the afternoon, halted beside the river , on the farther bank from the town of Imuris, a place of visitation from San Ignacio, having travelled four leagues to the north-northeast.
October 12 SP -- We set out from the river of the town of Imuris at half-past eight in the morning, and, at one in the afternoon, halted at El Guambut, before entering the canyon, having travelled four leagues to the north-northwest.
October 13 SP -- We set out from El Guambut at eight in the morning, and, at one in the afternoon, halted at El Sibuta, having travelled four leagues to the north, and very slowly through the canyon of El Guambut, as it is a dangerous pass on account of the Apaches.
October 14 SP -- We set out from El Sibuta at eight in the morning, and, at three in the afternoon, halted at a place called Las Lagunas, having travelled some eight long leagues: four to the northwest and four to the north-northwest.
October 15 SP -- We set out from Las Lagunas at eight in the morning, and, at two in the afternoon, arrived at the presidio of Tubac, having travelled some eight leagues to the north.
October 16 SP -- We remained at Tubac for some days, (I in the mission of Tumacacori, one league south of the presidio), in order to make the necessary preparations for continuing the journey, and to assemble the people who were to go on the expedition.
October 17 SP -- Occupied in that business.
October 18 SP -- Employed in the same way.
October 19 SP -- Spent in the same way.
October 20 SP -- Passed in the same manner.
October 21 SP -- I went to the presidio of Tubac with Father Francisco Garcés and his companion Father Tomás Eixarch, who joined us, as they were going -- by order of His Excellency the Viceroy -- to remain at the Río Colorado to observe the disposition of the nations inhabiting its valley. I observed the latitude of this presidio, but was not satisfied with the observation, as the day was overcast.
October 22 SP -- The mass was sung for the success of the expedition. As the day was clear, I again observed the latitude, and found this presidio to be in 31° 43' so I say: In the presidio of Tubac, October 22, 1775, meridian altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 46° 50'. The people, pack-animals, horses, and cattle which were to go on the expedition were finally gathered together -- the different numbers of these I do not set down, as I did not succeed in ascertaining them -- and it was determined to continue the journey on the following day.
October 23 SP -- We set out from Tubac at eleven in the morning, and, at half-past three in the afternoon, halted at the place called La Canoa, having travelled some five leagues to the north-northeast. This night the wife of a soldier was delivered; she died in childbirth, and the next day was taken to the mission of San Xavier del Bac for burial.
October 24 SP -- We set out from La Canoa at two in the afternoon, and, at five, halted at the Punta de los Llanos, having travelled three leagues to the north-northeast.
October 25 SP -- We set out from the Punta de los Llanos at half-past eight in the morning, and, at one in the afternoon, arrived at the mission of San Xavier del Bac, of which Father Francisco Garcés is minister, having travelled six long leagues, north by east.
October 26 SP -- We set out from the mission of San Xavier del Bac at half-past eight in the morning, and, at one in the afternoon, halted at a distance of one league from the town of Tuquisón, a place of visitation from the mission of San Xavier del Bac, and the last Christian town in this direction, having travelled four very long leagues, on account of the circuit that was made, in a direction almost north.
October 27 SP -- I observed the latitude of Tuquisón, and found it to be 32° 22'; so I say: One league north of the town of Tuquisón, October 27, 1775, meridian altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 44° 26'. We set out from the town of Tuquisón at one in the afternoon, and, a little before six, halted in a plain within sight of a low, rugged range, called La Frente Negra by the Indians, and before entering a pass called the Puerto del Azotado, having travelled five leagues: about two to the north-northwest and the remainder northwest.
October 28 SP -- We set out from the Llano del Puerto del Azotado at a quarter past eight in the morning, and, at half-past one in the afternoon, halted at some ponds, called Oitaparts by the Indians, having travelled six long leagues to the north-northwest, occasionally almost west.
October 29 SP -- We set out from the Lagunas de Oitaparts at one in the afternoon, and, at a quarter past five, halted a little beyond a sharp peak that the Indians call Tacca, having travelled some five leagues: about two to the northwest and the remainder to the north-northwest. Very early in the morning some Indians were sent to notify the Pimas of the Río Gila of our coming. After mass a proclamation was made prescribing rules tending to the better conduct of the people.
October 30 SP -- We set out from the Cerro de Tacca at eight in the morning, and, at half-past five in the afternoon, arrived near the Río Gila, and halted at a pond some distance from it, having travelled some twelve leagues: about six to the northwest, three to the north-northwest, and, at the end, some three almost due north. In consequence of the message sent yesterday, there came out to meet us on the road, the governor of the Papago villages, Aquituni and Cuitoa, and the governor of Uturituc, a town on the Río Gila, with the alcalde, accompanied by the governor of Sutaquisón and other Indians -- all on horseback. They alighted to salute us, and presented to the soldiers the scalps of two Apaches whom they had killed the day before -- with the Apaches they are continually at war. Afterwards, they mounted their horses and accompanied us to the stopping-place. They inquired if we had now come to live among them and to baptize the people, which, it seems, they eagerly desire, and showed themselves very much elated at our arrival.
October 31 SP -- The commander decided that the people should rest today, and so we had an opportunity to go and examine the house that is called La Casa Grande de Moctezuma, situated one league from the Río Gila and some three leagues to the easts-outheast of La Laguna. We were accompanied there by several Indians and by the governor of Uturituc, who told us on the way a tale and tradition regarding the house, handed down from their forefathers, all of which is nothing but fables mixed confusedly with truths of the catholic faith. I observed the latitude of the Casa Grande -- marked on the map with the letter A -- and found it to be 33° 3 1/2'; so I say: At the Casa Grande of the Río Gila, October 31,1775, meridian altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 42° 25'. We examined the building and its ruins with the greatest care -- I here insert the ichnographical plan of it, and for the better understanding of this give the following description and explanation. The great house or palace of Moctezuma, according to the stories and meagre accounts which there are of it, and what the Indians say, may have been built some five hundred years ago. It seems that this place was founded by the Mexicans when, during their migration, the devil led them through various countries until they arrived at the promised land of Mexico, and in their sojourns, which were long, they formed communities and erected buildings. The site of this house is level on all sides, and is about one league from the Río Glila and the ruins of the houses which constituted the town extend more than a league toward the east, and the other cardinal points. The whole of this ground is strewn with pieces of pots, jars, plates, etc., some common and others painted different colors -- white, blue, red, etc., which shows that this was an extensive community, and of a different stock from the Pimas of the Río Gila, who do not know how to make such earthenware. We made an exact survey of the building, and of its situation, measuring it with a lance, for the moment, and this measurement, afterwards reduced to geometrical feet, is, more or less, as follows: The house is an oblong, perfectly oriented to the four cardinal points, east, west, north, south, and surrounding it lie ruins indicating a defense or wall which inclosed the house and other buildings, particularly at the corners, where there appears to have been some structure like an interior castle or watch-tower, for, in the corner that lies to the southwest, a piece of it stands with its divisions and an upper story. The exterior circuit measures 420 feet from north to south, and 260 feet from east to west. The interior of the house consists of five halls--the three middle ones are alike, and one at each end somewhat larger. The three halls measure 26 feet from north to south, and 10 feet from east to west. The two halls on the end measure 12 feet from north to south, and 38 feet from east to west. The halls have a height of about 11 feet, and are all alike. The communicating doorways are 5 feet high and 2 feet wide, and are all about equal; except the first four, belonging to the four entrances, which appear to have been of double width. The interior walls are 4 feet thick, and are well plastered, and the exterior walls 6 feet. On the outside, the house measures 70 feet from north to south, and 50 feet from east to west. The walls are sloping on the outside. Before the eastern doorway, and separated from the house, there is another room measuring 26 feet from north to south, and 18 feet from east to west --not including the thickness of the walls. The timber, it appears, was pine -- and the nearest mountains that grow pine are some 25 leagues distant -- and there was also some mesquit. The whole building is of earth, and, judging from the remains, the walls were made with molds of various sizes. A very large conduit which supplied the town with water comes a great distance from [up] the river; it is now almost indistinguishable. Finally, it can be seen that the building was of three stories, and if there is any truth in what we could elicit from the Indians, and from the vestiges that we saw, it had four, the floor of the house being deepened into a cellar. To light the rooms there is nothing but the doors, and some round holes in the middle of the walls that face east and west -- the Indians said that through these holes, which are fairly large, the prince, whom they call "the bitter man," used to watch the sun at its rising and setting in order to salute it. No signs of stairs remain, and we therefore suppose that they must have been of wood, and that they were destroyed when the Apaches set the buildings on fire.