Diary of Father Pedro Font
Colonizing Expedition, 1775-1776
March 1 SP -- We set out from the Laguna Graciosa at eight in the morning, and, at a quarter past five in the afternoon, halted at the Ranchería del Buchón, having travelled some thirteen leagues: about three to the northeast; one to the north-northeast; two to the north; two to the north-northeast; three to the northeast along the beach; and two to the north-northwest.
March 2 SP -- We set out from the Ranchería del Buchón at eight in the morning, and, at a quarter to twelve, arrived at the mission of San Luis Obispo -- marked on the map with the letter D -- having travelled some four leagues: about one to the north, and the remainder to the north-northwest and northwest, deviating a little to the west shortly before arriving. The mission of San Luis [Obispo] is situated in a beautiful spot on a little rise beside a stream, near the Sierra de Santa Lucía, and three leagues from the sea, with very fertile lands. The Indians of this mission are clean, neat, and much better looking and seemly than those of any other nation I have seen.
March 3 SP -- We remained here today. I observed the latitude of this mission and found it to be 35° 17 1/2'; so I say: At the mission of San Luis Obispo, March 3, 1776, meridian altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 48° 4'.
March 4 SP -- We set out from the mission of San Luis Obispo at nine in the morning, and, at a quarter to five in the afternoon, halted at a place called La Asunción, on the banks of the Río de Monterey (which the Río de Santa Margarita has already joined), having travelled some ten leagues: about one to the northeast; four to the north; one to the north-northwest; two to the northwest; and two to the west-northwest.
March 5 SP -- We set out from La Asunción at a quarter to nine in the morning, and, at a quarter past four in the afternoon, halted beside the Río de San Antonio, at the place called Primer Vado, having travelled some ten leagues: about three almost due north; five, northwest; and two, west-northwest.
March 6 SP -- We set out from Primer Vado at a quarter to eight in the morning, and, at four in the afternoon, arrived at the mission of San Antonio de los Robles -- marked on the map with the letter E -- having travelled ten long leagues: some four to the west and west-northwest; two to the northwest; two almost due north; two to the northwest and a little to the west-northwest just before arriving. The mission of San Antonio is situated in the Sierra de Santa Lucía (this begins a little below the mission of San Luis and, following the coast, terminates near the mission of San Carlos del Carmelo) in a canyon -- not very narrow and some ten leagues long -- that is entirely covered with great oaks; for this reason the mission is called San Antonio de la Cañada de los Robles. The place is very suitable, having fine lands and plenty of water from the river which follows the canyon, but is at some distance from the sea, The Indians of this mission are totally distinct from those I have hitherto seen.
March 7 SP -- The lieutenant of the expedition, who had followed the deserters, arrived at this mission shortly after midday; he overtook and captured them a little beyond the Pozo Salobre del Carrizal going towards the Laguna de Santa Olalla, and left them prisoners at the mission of San Gabriel. I observed the latitude of this mission and found it to be 36° 22 1/2'; so I say: At the mission of San Antonio de los Robles, March 7, 1776, meridian altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 48° 52'.
March 8 SP -- We set out from the mission of San Antonio de los Robles at a quarter to nine in the morning, and, at a quarter past three in the afternoon, halted beside the Río de Monterey, at the place called Los Ositos, having travelled some nine leagues: about two to the northeast; three to the north, and a little to the north-northwest until we had passed a spur of the Sierra de Santa Lucía; and the remainder to the northwest.
March 9 SP -- We set out from Los Ositos at eight in the morning, and, at a quarter past three in the afternoon, halted beside the Río de Monterey, at the place called Los Correos, having travelled ten leagues: about six northwest by west, and the remainder west-northwest.
March 10 SP -- We set out from Los Correos at a quarter past nine in the morning, and, at half-past four in the afternoon, arrived at the Real Presidio del Puerto de Monterey -- marked on the map with the letter F -- having travelled some ten leagues: eight to the west-northwest, and the two last almost west.
The Real Presidio de Monterey is situated on a plain formed by the Sierra de Pinos, which ends here; it is by the sea and about a quarter of a league from the Puerto de Monterey. The port consists of a small bight sheltered to some extent by the Punta de Pinos, which extends seaward about two leagues and forms, with the Punta de Año Nuevo, which runs seaward about twelve leagues, a large but very open bay. The Punta de Pinos lies almost due north of the Presidio de Monterey, from which it is about three leagues distant; and the Punta de Año Nuevo lies almost northwest of the port, from which it is some ten or twelve leagues distant.
March 11 SP -- In the morning the Very Reverend Father-President of the missions, Father Junípero Serra, with four other religious, came from the mission of San Carlos del Carmelo to welcome as, and we sang mass in thanksgiving for our safe arrival. I observed the latitude of this presidio (although, as the day was very foggy, the observation was not entirely to my satisfaction, nor as exact as I desired, even though I took the greatest care), and found it to be 36° 36 1/2'; so I say: At the Real Presidio del Puerto de Monterey, March 11, 1776, meridian altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 49° 52'. It was decided that we should go to the mission [of San Carlos] del Carmelo, as much to accede to the solicitations of the father-president, as, and that principally -- because there was no place in the presidio for us to lodge; the lieutenant of the expedition, with the people who were being brought, remained at the presidio. The Commander, I, and some few others set out from the presidio of Monterey at four in the afternoon, and, at five, arrived at the mission of San Carlos del Carmelo -- marked on the map with the letter G -- having travelled one long league southwest by south. Here the fathers -- there were seven of them -- received us, singing the Te Deum, with peals of bells, and great rejoicing.
The mission of San Carlos del Carmelo is situated on a rising ground near the sea and close to the Río del Carmelo, which empties into a small bay formed by the Sierra de Santa Lucía, which terminates here, and the Punta de Cipreses. The site is splendid, and the land very fertile.
March 12 SP -- We remained at the mission to rest. The little bay, called the Puerto del Carmelo by Captain Vizcaino, does not deserve the name of a port for, in addition to its having a bad anchorage, it is entirely exposed to the northwest, from which direction comes the prevailing wind, and is only partially sheltered on the east and south by the Sierra de Santa Lucía.
March 13 SP -- In the middle of the forenoon the commander was attacked with such a violent pain in the groin that he was forced to go to bed.
March 14 SP -- The commander continued sick in bed, not being able to get up.
March 15 SP -- The commander continued without appreciable relief.
March 16 SP -- The commander remained in the same condition. I observed the latitude of this mission and found it to be 36° 34 1/2'; so I say: At the mission of San Carlos del Carmelo, March 16, 1776, meridian altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 51° 52'.
March 17 SP -- This morning the commander appeared to be somewhat improved.
March 18 SP -- The commander continued to improve somewhat.
March 19 SP -- The commander continued to get better. I again observed the latitude of this mission; I do not set down this observation because it came out the same as that of the 16th, with the difference of one minute more.
March 20 SP -- This morning the commander was so much improved that he decided to resume the journey for exploring the port of San Francisco two days hence.
March 21 SP -- I again made an observation and, at the same time, Father Francisco Palou made his observation with his graphometer, and Father Juan Crespi with his astrolabe. I do not set down this observation because it is the same as that of the 16th, with half a minute more, although the three of us differed somewhat in regard to the minutes.
March 22 SP -- We three again made observations as yesterday and the result came out almost the same as the former one, although we again could not agree on the minutes. The commander and I set out from the mission of San Carlos del Carmelo to proceed (with the lieutenant of the expedition) to the port of San Francisco. [We started] at three in the afternoon and arrived at the presidio of Monterey at four, having travelled one league northeast by north.
March 23 SP -- We set out from the presidio of Monterey at half-past nine in the morning with the lieutenant and eleven soldiers and, at a quarter to four, halted on the other side of the Valle de Santa Delfina at the entrance of a canyon in the place called La Natividad, having travelled some eight long leagues: rather more than one league to the east; three, to the northeast with some deviation to the north, to where we crossed the Río de Monterey; then, about three to the northeast and one to the north-northeast.
March 24 SP -- We set out from La Natividad at a quarter to eight in the morning and, at a quarter past four in the afternoon, halted at the Arroyo de las Llagas, having travelled some twelve leagues: two to the northeast, and a little to the east when we ascended the mountain to go down to the Arroyo de San Benito; one, north; two, northeast with some deviation to the north, to where we crossed the Río del Páxaro; one almost due north; three, north-northwest through the Valle de San Bernardino; and three, to the northwest.
March 25 SP -- We set out from the Arroyo de las Llagas at a quarter to eight in the morning and, at four in the afternoon, halted at the Arroyo de San Joseph Cupertino, having travelled some twelve leagues: three to the northwest; two northwest by west; five, west-northwest; and two, west by north.
March 26 SP -- We set out from the Arroyo de San Joseph Cupertino at half-past seven in the morning, and, at a quarter to four in the afternoon, halted at a small, almost dry, watercourse, about one short league after crossing the Arroyo de San Mateo, having travelled some twelve leagues: one, northwest; one, north-northwest; then some four, west-northwest, to where we crossed the Arroyo de San Francisco; then, three, northwest by west; and three, west-northwest.
March 27 SP -- We set out from the small watercourse at seven in the morning and, a little after eleven, halted beside a pond or spring of fine water near the mouth of the port of San Francisco, having travelled some six leagues: the first three to the northwest, and the last three, north-northwest and even very nearly north.
The port of San Francisco -- marked on the map with the letter H -- is a wonder of nature, and may be called the port of ports, on account of its great capacity and the various bights included in its litoral or shore and in its islands. The mouth of the port, which appears to be very easy of access and safe, may be about one league in length, and rather more than a league in width on the outside looking to the sea, and about a quarter of a league on the inside looking toward the port. The inner end of the entrance is formed by two very steep and high cliffs, on this side a white cliff, and on the other side a red one, and they face directly south and north. The outer end of the entrance is formed on the other side by some great rocks, and on this side by a high and sandy hill which almost ends in a round point and has at its skirt in the water some white rocks like little farallones; this point Commander Rivera reached when he came to explore this port, and planted a cross upon it. The coast of the entrance on the other side runs from east-northeast to west-southwest; this I observed on the first of April, from the other side of the estuary or port, when I went there, and it appears to be all of red rocky material. The coast of the entrance on this side runs from northeast to southwest, not straight but forming a bend, on the beach of which a stream empties that flows from the pond where we halted; we called it the Arroyo del Puerto. The boat can reach this stream to get water, for on the entire stretch of the shore at the mouth the sea is quiet and the waves do not break on the beach as they do on the shore of the open sea. The Punta de Almejas, in relation to the outer point of the entrance on this side, lies to the south, and must be some three leagues distant in an air-line. The beach, which consists of sand-dunes, forms almost a semicircle. The Punta de Reyes, on the other side, in relation to the said outer point of the entrance, lies north-west by west; the coast, as far as the said point, must be some twelve leagues in length, and does not run evenly, but forms a bight or bay, which is not very large, from what I could see at a distance of about three or four leagues. Some six or eight leagues out to sea, a group of rather large rocky islets (farallones) can be seen -- they have this form: [Frontispiece, fig. 1] and lie, in relation to the outer point of the entrance, west by south. West of the said point, farther out, four other farallones can be seen -- they look like this: [Frontispiece, fig. 2].
According to the particulars that I obtained, the Puerto de Bodega, -- discovered on October 3, 1775, by Don Juan de la Bodega y Quadra, captain of the schooner [Sonora] -- situated in latitude 38° 18', lies some four leagues north of the Punta de Reyes. Its entrance is formed, on this side, by the Punta del Cordón, and on the other, by the Punta de Arenas. One league northwest of the entrance lies the Punta de Murguía, and from there the coast runs on.
From the interior point of the entrance runs the wonderful port of San Francisco; this consists of a great bay or estero, as they call it, which must be some twenty-five leagues in length, and, as seen from the entrance, runs about southeast and northwest; at the middle is the entrance or mouth. The greater part of the shore of the port, as I saw it when we made the circuit of it, is not clear, but miry, marshy, and full of ditches, and is consequently bad. The width of the port is not uniform -- at the southeastern end it must be a league; in the middle, some four leagues; and at the northwestern end it terminates in a great bay of upwards of eight leagues, as it seemed to me. I found the shore of this bay clean, and not marshy like the former; in shape it is nearly round, although various bights were noticed in it, which at so great a distance prevented me from clearly distinguishing its shape. At about the middle of the bay, along the coast of this side, is the outlet or mouth of what has hitherto been taken to be a very large river, and has been called the Río de San Francisco; I shall, henceforth, call it the Boca del Puerto Dulce, because of the investigations that were made when we went to examine it, of which I shall speak later.
Inside the port I counted eight islands, and I cannot state whether there are more. The first to be met on entering the port -- its center, observed from the outer point of the entrance, on this side lies northwest by north in respect to this point, and is about one league from the entrance -- is called the Isla del Angel, or de los Angeles; behind it the San Carlos anchored. It must be one short league in length and, seen from the entrance, has this form : [Frontispiece, fig. 3]. Opposite the entrance there is a very small islet, like a farallon, and another, not so small; and about southeast, another large one. Another quite long one can be seen at the southeastern end, very close to the land. Another, about three leagues in length, also close to the land, is seen towards the northwest from the entrance; near it there are two other small ones, which, apparently, begin on that side to form the great bay in which terminates all this immense body of water; this being closed in and surrounded by mountains is as quiet as in a cup. Finally, in the bay and opposite the Boca del Puerto Dulce, there is a medium-sized island, besides those already mentioned.
March 28 SP -- The commander decided to erect the holy cross on the extremity of the white cliff at the inner point of the entrance to the port, and we went there at eight o'clock in the morning. We ascended a small low hill, and then entered a tableland, entirely clear, of considerable extent, and flat, with a slight slope towards the port; it must be about half a league in width and a little more in length, and keeps narrowing until it ends in the white cliff. This table-land commands a most wonderful view, as from it a great part of the port is visible, with its islands, the entrance, and the ocean, as far as the eye can reach -- even farther than the farallones. The commander marked this table-land as the site of the new settlement, and the fort which is to be established at this port, for, from its being on a height it is so commanding that the entrance of the mouth of the port can be defended by musket-fire, and at the distance of a musket-shot there is water for the use of the people, that is, the spring or pond where we halted.
I again examined the mouth of the port and its configuration with a graphometer, and attempted to survey it; the plan of it is the one I here set down.
From there the commander decided to go and inspect the low hills leading toward the inner part of the port -- which, seen from the Arroyo de San Mateo have this form: [Frontispiece, fig. 4] -- to see whether in those surroundings there were adequate facilities for the comfort of the new settlement. I accompanied the commander for a while, and, at ten in the morning, the commander and the lieutenant continuing the exploration, returned to the camp to make an observation. I observed the latitude of this port and found it to be 37° 49'; so I say: At the month of the port of San Francisco, March 28, 1776, meridian altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 55° 21'.
About five in the afternoon the commander and the lieutenant returned from their exploration very much pleased, as they had found more than they hoped for in the district of the low hills, which extended for some three leagues. In these hills and their canyons they found much brush and firewood, plenty of water in various springs or ponds, much tillable ground, and also plenty of pasture everywhere, so that the new settlement can obtain much wood, water, and grass or pasturage for their horses, all close at hand -- there is lacking only timber for large edifices, although for huts and barracks, and for the stockade of the presidio there is sufficient material in the woods. With a little forethought, however, they can obtain the lumber just as they want it, for from about six leagues beyond the Arroyo de San Joseph Cupertino to some three leagues this side of the Arroyo de San Francisco there lies a plain about fifteen leagues in extent, called the Llano de los Robles because it is very densely grown with all sizes of oaks, from which very good lumber may be taken out. Besides this, from the neighborhood of the Arroyo de las Llagas there extends as far as the Punta de Almejas a very high range, the greater part of it densely covered with spruce and other trees which extend as far as the Cañada de San Andrés, of which I shall speak tomorrow. From these places wood can be obtained in any desired quantity and size without much trouble, for it is not hard to get out.
The Indians that we saw on the road to Monterey seem to be gentle, good-natured, and very poor, and as they presented themselves unarmed they gave no sign of being warlike or ill-intentioned. Those who live near the port are pretty well bearded, but in color are not distinct from the others.
March 29 SP -- At a quarter past seven in the morning we set out from the lake or spring where the Arroyo del Puerto has its source, and halted, at half-past six in the evening, at the Arroyo de San Mateo, having travelled some fifteen leagues by the round-about which we took and of which I am going to speak, as from the port to the Arroyo de San Mateo it is only some six full leagues by the direct road.
As a result of the reconnoissance made yesterday, the commander decided to set out from the port by skirting the hills which surround it in the vicinity of the mouth, and to follow the inner shore until he should reach the level ground. For this reason he sent off the pack-train by the direct road with orders to stop at the Arroyo de San Mateo. We ourselves, taking a different route, travelled about one league to the east, one to the east-southeast, and one to the southeast, and arrived at a beautiful stream, which, because this was the Friday of Sorrows, we called the Arroyo de los Dolores.
From a slight eminence, I here observed the lay of the port from this point and saw that its extremity lay to the east-southeast. I also noticed that a very high spruce tree, which is to be seen at a great distance, rising up, like a great tower, from the Llano de los Robles -- it stands on the banks of the Arroyo de San Francisco; later on I measured its height -- lay to the southeast.
We travelled about three leagues more to the south, the south-west, and the west-northwest, skirting the hills until we came out on the plain and struck the road, by which we proceeded a short distance to the southeast. Here the commander decided to go and examine a nearby canyon, called the Cañada de San Andrés, which lies in the range wooded with spruce -- they also call this tree palo colorado [redwood] -- and terminates at the Punta de Almejas, in order to see if it contained good timber for the settlement at the port.
We therefore left the road and travelled about one short league to the southwest, and a little south, and entered this Canyon. As we followed it we saw much woodland with thick undergrowth and several kinds of good timber: oak, madroño, spruce, as well as poplars and other trees, and much shrubbery on the banks of the long narrow stream or lake that runs through this canyon and gives rise to the Arroyo de San Mateo, which issues into the plain through a narrow opening between some hills. We travelled about four leagues southeast and southeast by south, and crossed the Arroyo de San Mateo, which here penetrates the narrow opening in the hills. About a league back, a huge bear, which we succeeded in killing, appeared in our path -- there are many bears throughout this district. We then travelled some two leagues to the east-southeast, and the examination of the canyon being considered sufficient, it was decided to proceed to the camp, where we arrived after crossing some high hills and travelling about two leagues almost due north.
March 30 SP -- We set out from the Arroyo de San Mateo at a quarter past seven in the morning, and, after travelling about twelve leagues in various directions, halted at four in the afternoon on the other side of a river which we called the Río de Guadalupe. This river empties into the [southern] extremity of the port, and a league above its mouth it is very deep, as it is backed up and has no current. On setting out we followed, for some six leagues, the road we had come, taking the corresponding directions, until we arrived at the Arroyo de San Francisco. Beside this stream is the redwood tree I spoke of yesterday; I measured its height with the graphometer which they lent me at the mission of San Carlos del Carmelo, and, according to my reckoning, found it to be some fifty yards high, more or less; the trunk was five yards and a half in circumference at the base, and the soldiers said that there were still larger ones in the mountains.
For the purpose of going to examine the large river called the Río de San Francisco, which is said to flow into the port on the northern side, we here left the road by which we had come, and, changing our direction, followed the water, but keeping at a distance of about a league from it, and in some places even more, on account of the marshes. We proceeded for some three leagues to the east; then, beginning to round the extremity of the port, we travelled about three leagues to the northeast, at the end winding from west to east to ford the river and reach camp.
March 31 SP -- We set out from the Río de Guadalupe at eight in the morning, and, at four in the afternoon, halted on the bank of the Arroyo de San Salvador -- otherwise called the Arroyo de la Harina -- having travelled some ten long leagues with varying directions: at first, about one short league to the north-northwest, and then, on account of the sloughs and marshes, we kept on for about three leagues, changing from east-northeast to northeast, winding about until we got clear of the sloughs and low ground where we were, and gained higher ground along the foot of the hills which extend to the bay and the month of the Puerto Dulce. We then travelled, at a long distance from the water, for about two leagues to the north-northwest, and two more to the northwest.
The Indians that we saw hereabouts are, in language, entirely distinct from those we have passed; they have some beard; are docile and very poor; but in color they are the same as all the rest.