Diary of Francisco Garcés

Exploratory Expedition, 1774

Note. The source used for the Spanish transcription of Garcés' 1774 diary did not include his entries for May, June, and July.

February 1 SP -- At half past seven in the morning we set out to the northwest through some hills, and having traveled three leagues we came to the watering place of the tanks which are placed one above another and are called La Purificación. Here the commander decided to wait for the pack train, and some pasturage was found a little distance away.

February 4 SP -- We set out, changing our direction, although we went principally to the west-northwest, and having traveled five leagues we came to an arroyo which has water when it rains, pools soon being formed in it. The preceding watering places I saw during my return from the last journey. To the west-southwest of this one, in the sierra which runs to the north, is the Tinaja de Eusebio, of which I make mention in my diary; and there are other small watering-places in that sierra, but none of them are convenient for this journey.

February 5 SP -- At five o'clock in the morning we set forth west-northwest, and, having crossed the sierra, at a distance of eight leagues we reached Pozo Blando, which on my last journeys I thought was Agua Escondida. This march was difficult. During the forenoon we came to the road which goes to the Gila, and the soldiers saw the groves, so we left to the north the Sierra del Bonete, near which I came out on my last journey. At the watering place we met a Pima Indian who told us that part of the Yumas were awaiting us to steal our animals and to kill us, especially the fathers. He said that downstream from Palma's village the people were good, but not those upstream. Since I learned that upstream from the house of Palma there are few Yumas, those living there being Cocomaricopas and their allies, I thought this to be a fiction, and I proposed to the commander that I should go to see both the good and the bad, and talk with them concerning our coming. He did not think this plan a prudent one, so we sent the Indian with a message for the Captain, asking him to come, in order to make arrangements concerning the case.

February 6 SP -- We set out south, traveling at crossed it by a short and narrow pass, which the commander ordered repaired, and then keeping on the right a range. We crossed it by a short and narrow pass, which the commander ordered repair, and then keeping on the right a range which runs to the north, we went four leagues to the northwest and halted late at night at a dry arroyo with some grass. We saw that the principal range forms a point to the south-southwest which appears to be near the Gulf.

February 7 SP -- Traveling five hard leagues across the sand dunes, we reached the Gila River near the villages which I called San Pedro where I slept during my last journey on the night of August 23d. This stretch of sand abounds in pasturage of the kind which I have mentioned. Although when seen at a distance it looks like a beautiful and vast plain that these sand wastes occupy, certain it is that it would be difficult to find a worse piece of country. It cannot be denied that the Gila River is short of pasturage, nevertheless the road which runs by way of it is better than this, and two things appear to me to be clear. The first is that this road is not a desirable route in the rainy season, because at that time one may go conveniently to the Gila at any point. The second is that if this road has such defects during the rainy season, what must it be during the time of heat and drought?

Concerning these Pápagos I have stated both in my diaries and in my reports that if measures were taken to give them ministers in their lands, there would be no difficulty in their complete reduction. Although this tribe or portion of Pimas has been very numerous, now, on account of the number who have attached themselves to the pueblos or have gone to the Gila and Colorado rivers, it may be that the population does not reach four thousand souls, though it does not lack much of it. Their lands have some sites with good pasturage, and when the rains of winter and summer are regular they harvest sufficient provisions, and have the necessary water in pools. In all their lands there are no trees worth mentioning, except jediondillas, palo de guaro, palo verde, nopales, and saguaros, which produce fruit like that of the pitayas. Besides these there are some gomas and jojovas and various roots similar to the camote and the covena. There grow in some parts also some yellow-green worms, which they eat and which they dry to keep. In this region seeds of various kinds of grass are found, but not as abundantly as on the rivers. Since the country is so poverty stricken, the Indians grow more energetic and active than those of the rivers, and they have rare devices for getting provisions, both from the Indians of the missions, who for the greater part are born in their lands, and from those of the Gila and Colorado rivers. They are very industrious and have a quicker intelligence than those of the rivers. All wear clothing, and they have a great abundance of Moqui blankets which they get from the rivers. The western Pápagos are hostile to the Quiquimas, but are ancient friends of the Yumas, whom they have aided in their campaigns. The eastern Pápagos are allied with the Gileños and their friends, and they take part in the campaigns which they make. As a consequence they are becoming more dexterous in arms every day, with the result that on a campaign one Pápago is worth many Yumas and Opas.

The Pimas and Yumas came out very joyfully to welcome us, and on our arrival they assembled in great numbers, which kept getting larger each of the succeeding days. Their affability and familiarity are insufferable for those who do not like them, because they are excessively curious. Captain Palma, the chief Indian of this country, of whom I make mention in my last diary for the 24th, 25th and 26th of August, begged that we should have patience, because his people had a keen desire to touch us and examine us, to satisfy their simplicity, and they did so without distinction as to sex. Although Palma told them that they must not steal, they did not fail to display the dexterity of every Indian in pilfering trifles. One of the laughable things is to see their skill and slyness in stealing and taking things with their feet, which they use as well as we manage our hands. With this way of doing things one can understand what molestation and rudeness I must have suffered in my journey when I went alone, and how well they have conducted themselves in matters of honesty.

When we asked the Indian Palma if he was one of the malcontents, he replied that his children were good, but that the Opas, who had come with the embassy asking us to go through their lands to the junction of the rivers, on learning that we had changed our route had become discontented and returned to their lands, but that he was at peace with them, as I had counseled him to be, and likewise with the Quiquimas and Axagueches who lived down the river, but that he was at war with the Cocomaricopas living up the Colorado River and in its neighborhood, because he did not wish peace with them, but I did not believe him.

The commander comported himself with this Indian and his followers with the prudence, liberality, and good conduct which is so characteristic of him, and we tried to fulfill the ministry, although the interpreters were incompetent and served only with regard to very ordinary things, because the Pimas who are mixed with the Yumas corrupt the language greatly, and we had with us no Castilian speaking Indian, thinking that the Indian Sebastián Tarabal would serve. To this tack of an interpreter I attribute in part the setbacks which we have experienced in the journey.

February 8 SP -- I crossed the Gila River by the ford which was a league away, in the arms of Indians, and the rest of the company crossed it on horseback. The river is large, for besides being so itself it is joined a little above the ford by a branch of the Colorado River. It would not be much to say that it is as large as the Guadalajara River. Nearly all the Indians recognized me, since during my last journey I had come down the Gila River from the place fourteen leagues above here where the river has in its bed so many cottonwoods that its water can hardly be seen.

February 9 SP -- After dinner, going a quarter of a league, I crossed the Colorado River in the arms of Indians, because I did not trust the horse. Most of the company went over on horseback, and without any mishap, by a shorter ford which the river forms in the shape of this figure [insert sketch here]. Having measured the river it was found to be ninety-five fathoms wide. And from the goodness of the people and from the land so suitable for crops, all members of the expedition formed a very favorable opinion, seeing the fields of wheat and the stubble of maize and tepari, which is a small, hard bean, all of which is raised without irrigation. After crossing the river we continued a little more than a quarter of a league and halted near the river below its junction with the Gila. Seeing the junction of these rivers, which I did not recognize on my last journey although I slept so near it, we at once climbed a hill which, with another opposite it on the other bank of the river, forms a pass through which the river flows very majestically. These two hills are lookouts which afford an exquisite view, embracing admirable sites for settlements, although this vicinity is short of pasturage. From all these beaches one can see the Peñol del Babuquíburi, which has the shape of a head, and which we now call the Giant's Head, and another which we call La Campana, because it is shaped like a bell. They are very conspicuous, and for this reason I made mention of them in my last diary.

February 10 SP -- At half past seven in the morning we set out to the west-southwest, and having traveled six leagues we reached the villages opposite the one which I called San Pablo, leaving to the right the village of El Llanto.

February 11 SP -- Going west we traveled six leagues. In this vicinity on my last journey I came out from the sand dunes and the well of El Rosario, and recrossed the river. The Yumas and their good lands and wide river bottoms reach as far as here. I estimate that they must number nearly 3500, but I do not give many names to the ranches because eventually they will unite and few will remain.

February 12 SP -- Going south-southwest we traveled five leagues with some Yumas and some Cajuenches, who are the tribe which comes next, and are somewhat different in language and in their mode of speaking. This tribe has various names. The Pimas call them Cojat; those who live in the sierra call them the tribe of the mescal sandals, or more properly guaraches; and the Yumas call Axagueches; but they themselves say that their tribe is the Cajuen. It reaches clear to San Diego, as I saw when I was at that mission and presidio. We halted at a lagoon which we crossed dryshod, naming it Santa Olalla. It has good pasturage and water, and is near the villages which I called Our Father San Francisco. Here we saw several Indians from Our Father San Francisco and La Merced, but for lack of an interpreter we could not get exact information as to the route which we ought to travel, although a Yuma started with us saying that he would guide us, and we hoped that he would direct us until the Indian Sevastián could get his bearings.

February 13 SP -- Having said goodbye to Captain Palma, who rained tears, we traveled six leagues to the west-northwest and came to the green well which I called El Rosario. Immediately I told all the company that San Xacome was to the west-southwest by west, and that the sierra to the west of us was called San Gerónimo. I told them that in its vicinity I had seen no water, but that I had seen some watering places in the sand dunes, though they were salty and those lands lacked pasturage. In spite of this the Indian said that there was another watering place, and we reached it after a little more than three leagues of travel. We found a lake with some carrizo grass and with water of very bad color and very salty, but on the bank there was a small well of fair water. Since I am little practiced in matters of out-door life I did not notice it, and although in my last journey I saw this and other similar watering places, neither I nor the horse drank. The Yuma Indian as well as the Cajuenches told also of other watering places and people near the Sierra de San Gerónimo who, they said, were their enemies.

February 14 SP -- The Yuma and two of the Cajuenches turned back, but with some coaxing two remained. They led us west to another watering place very much like the preceding one, and we halted because they said that the next one had no pasturage.

February 15 SP -- The two Indians who had remained with us now turned back, but they told of water and people and of the road. When the countrymen saw the road and the sierra apparently not very far away, they thought the journey could be made, although the pack train and the riding animals were so worn-out. The Indian Sevastián recognized the pass which is one of the two openings which I mention in my diary. Having traveled, then, two leagues to the west, we found a deep well with a little water, though it was somewhat bad, and there was very little pasturage. The muleteer reported that the pack train was in bad shape and could no longer carry the cargo.

The commander at once thought of dividing the expedition, continuing with part of it and sending the rest back to the river with one of the fathers. I did not think this decision wise, because we did not know what people we might meet if the expedition should take so small a force, and because we could pasture our animals along the river for as long a time as might be necessary. The commander, therefore, decided to go with half the cargo to cross the stretch of country between here and the sierra, and so the vanguard set forth to the west-northwest.

We must have traveled about three leagues when we discovered a vast plain which appeared to have many sand dunes. Seeing this we all concluded that it was impossible to reach the sierra. In order that the riding animals might not drink again the preceding water and eat the tule which had injured them, I told the commander that near San Xacome and near a black hill there was a well of fresh water which it seemed to me we would be able to reach. Turning south-southeast, and sending a message to the effect that the pack train should go straight to San Xacome, we traveled as fast as we could, but the horses could not hurry as was desired in order that we might reach and reconnoiter the site of the village by daylight. So we were unable to find the well, the village, or the lagoons, although I went out with two soldiers, and we saw a light but they said it was a fire. The mules smelled the foul water of a lagoon and we perceived the scent, and the soldiers said that it was very strong, and they did not believe that any such San Xacome could be located there, thinking that I must be greatly mistaken, and so we returned. Since I had evidence that San Xacome was in this vicinity and that La Merced was further on I proposed to go alone, and that if I should find the village I would signal with smokes or send the Indians. But he did not think well of this plan, fearing that I might get lost.

February 16 SP -- And so before daylight, setting out northeast to meet the pack train and to go by direct road to the last well which we had seen, and where we had left half of the cargo, we traveled five leagues.

February 17 SP -- On account of having taken the riding animals to another watering place in order that they might eat and drink, we did not start until noon. Then, naming this the Well of Las Angustias, we returned to the watering place whence we had set forth on the 15th; and because the soldiers were very happy even though they were going on foot, we called this watering place La Alegría.

February 18 SP -- At midday we set out from this watering place, and going past the well of El Rosario we halted at nightfall at a salty lagoon without pasturage which we had seen on going.

February 19 SP -- With about two hours' travel we reached the lake of Santa Olaya, where we halted with the intention of pasturing the riding animals. The pack train remained at El Carrizal and on the 21st it arrived with half of the cargo.

February 24 SP -- Today the rest of the cargo arrived, and because I thought that we should be detained for many days on account of the bad condition of the animals, I consulted with the commander about going to see the people living down the river whom I already knew. I desired also to see if by going to the lake of San Matheo and to the Agua Amarilla I might find Indians from the sierra who could give us information about the watering places in the neighborhood. In order that I might regulate my movements accordingly, the commander said that his departure must be on the 1st or the 2d of March.

The same day at one o'clock in the afternoon I set forth accompanied by three Indians, taking a small quantity of glass beads and half a roll of tobacco. I traveled to the south about three and one-half leagues, seeing some ranchos. The Indians there live on the mesquite bean and on another bean which has the shape of a screw. Some Indians who are more particular still, had calabashes, and a very special seed which they begin to eat near the last of August. Others were eating also the seed of the chamiso. At sunset I saw a lake which I called San Mathías.

February 25 SP -- I set out toward the west to see some ranchos and then going southeast and having traveled two leagues I came to the river. On its banks I met a very old chief, who regaled us, and when I saluted him he said, "Usu!" The guides told me that this chief and his Indians greeted each other by saying "Mulay!', Going two leagues to the southwest I came to other ranchos, and then making some turns I stopped at the house of a bald, old, and very venerable chief whom I had seen on the other side of the river during my last journey. He regaled us with beans and other foods.

February 26 SP -- Traveling a quarter of a league, I again reached the river and saw many people on the other bank. The chief and the old men urged me to cross over, and in order to please them and to see what place the one on the other side was, I crossed on a raft which the old men promptly made. I recognized these villages to be those of Santa Rosa. Now, leaving the westward direction in which the river flows at this place, I went four leagues to the south, accompanied by some Indians. Seeing that I was now leaving their lands, they sat down, saying that the people below were their enemies, as I had experienced in the last journey. Neither the horse nor the present circumstances permitted repeating the operations of my last journey, so I returned in all haste with the same Indians.

February 27 SP -- I recrossed the river at the same place. Twice the Indians swam while taking the raft across, but for the most part the river must be only five spans deep. Then, following its current, I traveled along, seeing many people and good lands planted with wheat. Generally they saluted me by saying "Yñels!" About five o'clock in the afternoon they wished me to recross the river, but I refused. They told me that farther down they now had enemies, and, knowing that the horse was tired, I decided to return, going back directly to Santa Olaya. That afternoon and night I traveled about three leagues to the east-southeast on foot through great thickets.

February 28 SP -- Some Indians, very much like those of San Xacome, who made signs that they had seen me during my last journey, wished to lead me to the west, but I did not wish to go, for I was now traveling on foot because the horse was tired. That day I saw other ranchos of Cajuenches, and I set out north, reaching a lagoon which is now inhabited by the Indians of the old chief. They saluted me by saying "Mulai!" A goodly portion of them assembled and I decided to continue the journey with some of them. They led me to a village, one of those belonging to Our Father San Francisco. All day I traveled toward the north, covering about five leagues.