Diary of Francisco Garcés

Exploratory Expedition, 1774

Note. The source used for the Spanish transcription of Garcés' 1774 diary did not include his entries for May, June, and July.

March 1 SP -- Having traveled four leagues in the same direction, before dinner I came out at the Lake of Santa Olaya. Here I met the Pima who served me as an interpreter among the Yumas, and from him I learned that those people who say "Mulai" and "Yñelse," and the villages which I called Santa Rosa, are the ones whom they call Quiquimas, and that those who took me across the river on my last journey were another people, but I think that the language of the Cajuenches differs from the Yuma more than that of these others. It is certain that although they differ very little in language, they are made distinct by their names and wars and customs. The Cajuenche tribe count only those who live near the river, and contained in the villages of our Father San Francisco, La Merced, and the sierra near to the Agua Amarilla. The Yumas say that the Cajuenches comprise a number of Indians greater than their own, and I know that in the villages of Las Yagas, San Ustaquio, San Matheo and Jesús María they will comprise a number equal to the Yumas, and still farther down below Las Yagas near the sierra I saw some smokes. The Quiquimas included in the villages of Santa Rosa and in the people of the two chiefs whom I have just seen will reach two thousand. From having seen on the 26th of last month that the river is very narrow, I conclude that in that region it forms an island, but I was not able to verify this opinion through lack of interpreters.

Today the commander told me what had been decided in conference with Father Juan and all the troops, namely that the expedition must be made in light order of marching, since most of the pack train would be unable to go forward even though it should pasture for a long time. Although I have wished that since now we are not going by a higher latitude we might at least return that way, to which purpose this plan might be an obstacle, yet, the prudent persons assuring me that there was no other way by which this expedition could be accomplished. I bowed my head. The muleteer remained behind with three of his companions and three soldiers, all being willing to do so, and instructed in what they must do by the commander, who made this decision.

March 2 SP -- Having said goodbye to those who were returning to the junction of the rivers, and having traveled four leagues to the west with some declination to the southwest, we came to a lake belonging to La Merced where there are many stubble fields of maize and good groves.

March 3 SP -- Going south-southwest with three hours of travel, making some turns through the groves, we came to another lake. Here assembled a vast number of Indians and I saw some of those whom I had seen at San Xacome. I inquired for the town, and they told me that because the well had dried up it was abandoned. I regaled an Indian and inquired through two others who together with him had accompanied me, and they said that the people of San Xacome were in the sierra, near the sea, or estuary, where they obtained very large fish. They also replied to the inquiry if there were rivers to the west, that there were two, both being salty and not large. They were greatly undecided about accompanying us, but finally two others joined a Cajuenche who lived with the Yumas in order that all three might come with us.

March 4 SP -- -After midday we set out from the lake, and going a league to the west-northwest we saw a well. Having traveled another league we came to another well, likewise of good water, the lands nearby being well grown with pasturage. Here the Indians wished us to halt for the night, saying that the next journey was very long. This proposal was not considered desirable, and so, traveling another league in the same direction, we came to a village of eighteen or twenty persons, who saluted by saying "Jesús María." A little more than a league farther on we came to the blind well and the abandoned site of San Xacome, all recognizing by the signs how great a number of people had lived here and how close we had been to it on the night when we sought the place. We saw one of the salty lakes, and although the Indians insisted that we should camp there for the night, this was not done, because there was no other pasturage than the dry canes of the wild amaranth, and so we traveled in the night three more leagues in the same direction.

March 5 SP -- At dawn we set out in the same direction, and going ten leagues we reached the sierra of San Gerónimo. Then traveling a league and a half along an arroyo, we crossed the sierra and came out, after passing a small sand dune, to a dry lake which covers almost an entire valley, having many fish of various sizes on the beach. All of us were of the opinion that this lake had communication with the sea and was the same as the Agua Amarilla of which I make mention in my diary on the 21st of September. Since the soil of these lands is very salty, and likewise the arroyo of San Lino and the other, for they say it also is excessively salty, it may be that this is the reason why the large fish come up from the sea to this lake. Not so many come up the Colorado River, for in my last journey when I asked for the large fish, the Indians always answered me by pointing below the sierra. They also have said that a sierra enters the sea and is greatly cut up, the water communicating from one part to another. And so it may be true that behind the sierra and this estuary the sea comes farther up than at the place where the Colorado River empties, and it is possible that this estuary or lagoon which we passed has no connection with the sea in the dry season, although it was miry.

Going a distance of two leagues we found on its banks, in the middle of another salt one a well of fresh water which we called San Eusebio. This march was certainly very difficult, and although it can be shortened by two leagues or even four by opening the well of San Xacome, and drinking water somewhat salty, it is not of the right distance. On coming out at the sierra of San Gerónimo we saw another blind well, and if there should be water in it, two more leagues could be saved.

March 6 SP -- The guide and some animals having fled, we were not able to set forth in the morning. Since we did not know with certainty where the next watering place was, the commander sent ahead some soldiers to reconnoiter the country which the guide had indicated. After dinner we set out to the west, and having gone three leagues along the trail we learned of the watering place called Santo Thomás. There is little pasturage, and one enters between two sierras, the direction changing so that we advanced but a short distance, although we traveled five leagues that afternoon.

March 7 SP -- We took the same measures as yesterday, and having traveled four leagues to the north and northeast we learned that some Indians had told the corporal of a well which was thereabouts. We kept on the left the large mountain chain and on the right the sand dunes and plains, because the sierra of San Gerónimo had ended.

March 8 SP -- With a league's journey to the northeast we came out to the wells called Santa Rosa de las Lajas, and here we remained until the next afternoon. Indeed, the animals required it. On my journey on the 29th of September I arrived at a point about three leagues east of this place. Here also the Indian Sebastián recognized the pass and the route which he followed when he went out to the river.

March 9 SP -- -About two on the afternoon we set out to the north, and having traveled five leagues we halted. Although at Santa Rosa there is a scarcity of pasturage, here we lacked it entirely.

March 10 SP -- We set out at daybreak and, going seven leagues, now over good terrain and now over sand dunes, we arrived at midday at the watering place called San Sebastián. Here there is some pasturage, but because the soil is salty it is not good for the animals. There is a very large marsh through which run some little arroyos of excessively salty water, but there is a little lake and a well that are quite fresh. The Indians are Cajuenches. They saluted us by saying "Natajaguaque." The greater part of them recognized me, for they saw me in San Xacome during my last journey.

They also told us that soldiers had traveled through here. We did not know whether it was Don Pedro Fajes or the deserters, or whether both had passed successively. Here all the Indians recognized Sebastián, and told of two watering places, which, if they were convenient, would greatly shorten the road for the return. Indeed, it has always appeared to me desirable that an exit should be sought to this place of San Sebastián or to another of those farther on, where now there is no difficulty. If Don Pedro Fajes or the deserters reached this vicinity the road from San Diego is already known, and if, as they say, he came out at San Luís, the road from San Luís is already discovered. I judge that by making the attempt the most direct road to Monterrey will be found, even though the Soyopas said the road was bad. Before knowing who these Soyopas were, and the nature of the people who live above them, there was reason for being afraid to go much higher up the Colorado River with a small number of men, but now it is known that the Soyopas and the rest farther up, as well as those of the sierra, are Indians of the same quality as the Yumas.

Oh, what a vast heathendom! Oh! what lands so suitable for missions! Oh! what a heathendom so docile! How fine it would be if the wise and pious Don Carlos III might see these lands! And oh, if at least we might bring it about that the one who so worthily governs these kingdoms might see these provinces! What vigorous measures they would take, because, indeed, seeing a thing is very different from hearing about it! In such a case we would see renewed those conquests which were made in the time of Carlos V, and the fiscal would not complain, and with reason, of the little progress which we make in these times. Now we shall see who is to blame that there should be no great progress in the spiritual and temporal conquest, for the piety of the king is not responsible. Neither will the great spirit of his Excellency, Don Antonio María Bucareli, permit the obstruction of these great services to both majesties. Indeed, I am sure that the providence of God will aid the gifted ministers. And then if it does not succeed it must he attributed to what is well known to the señor fiscal, and which I state in the report which I sent concerning the matter, where in large part I attribute the retardation of these provinces to the tack of commerce, which the superior government has so restricted in these provinces.

Pardon this digression, for my feelings have not allowed me to restrain myself. It appears to me, also, that by way of the estuary and the lake of San Matheo a good road might be opened to San Diego, avoiding the sand dunes, but some kind of a canoe will always be necessary.

The Cajuen Indians who live away from the river are ordinarily small of body and weak. They make some guaraches, or sandals of mescal fiber, and some nets with which they bind now the head, and now the stomach. Some wear their wigs, while on the river many go bald. They also carry a macana of the shape of a sickle. These Indians inhabit the whole sierra which runs from here to the mouth of the river and extends, as I have said, as far as the Gulf.

March 11 SP -- At two o'clock in the afternoon we set out to the west. All the afternoon was spent in finding a way through the mire, and by nightfall we had traveled only two leagues.

March 12 SP -- Going west-northwest and through small hills we came to a valley, and after passing a red hill we halted, having traveled five leagues, at some wells and salty marshes called San Gregorio, a place which has much pasturage and is in a very narrow valley between two ranges. To this point came many Cajuenches, and here we saw another tribe. These Cajuenches do not paint themselves as much as the Yumas. With their macanas they are accustomed to kill many rabbits and some deer, with whose skins the women cover themselves behind, but in front they wear aprons of the fiber of arria, made of the inner bark of trees. These multitudes of fibers some wear like a net and others loose, but all cover themselves well, and even the little girls three years old or even infants are never seen naked. In these regions the women use the nets to carry wood, herbs and the ollas in which they carry water, and also to carry their little children. The men build corrals with the nets, stakes and flat rocks, and, driving the game from long distance toward a corral, they kill it in abundance. Since these mountain Indians eat much mescal and in some parts the roots of the tule, their teeth are very badly decayed and damaged. Some carry a lance with a good point, which appears to be a weapon for war, and even the women carry poles that are shorter and thicker. They eat a great quantity of wild onions, which abound in these parts. Although these Cajuenches are not such people as the Yumas they are friendly and more timid.

March 13 SP -- We rested because the pack train had become badly fatigued on the previous day.

March 14 SP -- Going northwest, and having crossed a stretch of sand dunes and level land, we came to an arroyo which runs for about a league and has some trees along its banks, where we camped, having traveled five leagues. Here we saw many Indians of another tribe, and although there were still a few Cajuenches, it caused me a great deal of trouble to induce the Indians to approach the commander, who wished to give them presents. This place we called Santa Catarina. Near here we saw traces of mules and horses, and here the Indian Sebastián had been in the course of his journey to the river. He was of the opinion that we should not follow the route by which he had come, and we did as he advised.

March 15 SP -- Having traveled two leagues to the north-northwest, following the arroyo which is dry in that part, we came to the source of another water. And we saw many Indians, who in dress are very little different from the Cajuenches, but they are distinct in language and in their method of speaking, for when these people speak they move their feet, raising them high behind, and wave the arms as though complaining and grumbling; and they likewise raise their voices, speaking in tones like some little crows which abound in this region. It certainly is laughable. We did not see that they carried any weapons, which appear to be useless to them. They are scrawny, and they live on the same kinds of food as the mountain Cajuenches.

Having traveled two more leagues to the northwest and north-northwest, we halted at the foot of the ridge. The Indian Sevastián went to reconnoiter from a height, and it appeared to him that there was no outlet. But the Indians by signs persuaded us that we would get through, and the corporal went and found a way out. By a short climb we ascended the ridge, and having gone about a league toward the north along the height which forms a good plain, we halted.

March 16 SP -- Because it rained we could not set out before one in the afternoon. Then, going northwest, we climbed for a short distance and reached the pass called San Carlos; then, having crossed a small valley we came out to another and larger one called El Príncipe, and halted at a lake, having gone three leagues. Because we had traveled over roads so dry and lacking in pasturage, it caused us much pleasure to see these lands so well grown with pasturage; and it seemed to the men that since it was raining this country must be suitable for all kinds of grain and good for settlements, although it may be that in the dry season it would not appear so good. Therefore this goodness needs more experience and proof.

March 17 SP -- Going northwest between two sierras which seem to have some pines on their crests, we came to the canyon and arroyo of San Patricio, which is very narrow, but not so narrow as to impede passage. There are some live oaks, jucaros, cottonwoods, and other dilapidated trees, but no cedars are seen.

March 18 SP -- Going seven leagues to the northwest, we came to the beautiful valley of San Joseph, which has all the qualities for a good settlement. There is a great abundance of good quelites which the Indians eat in season, sour cane which they call sotole, and a little palm which bears dates which are not like those of Spain, but very different. These are found also in Pimería Alta. There is a large cottonwood grove, a very large marsh with much pasturage, a lake, and a river which probably is permanent. We saw a countless multitude of white geese like those which I saw at Agua Amarilla. It appeared to the men of experience that the soil along the river mentioned, in some very high hills near the large Sierra Nevada, is mineral bearing, and a stone which they got that day appeared to them to contain metal.

March 19 SP -- Winding around by a very miry road, we came to a hill, having traveled about four and a half leagues almost to the northwest but with many windings, because the hills as well as the plains are so boggy. The groves are thickly grown with grass, one species of which bears a seed very much like rye. I have no doubt this is the grain which the Gileños call wheat, for they told me that near the sea there was wheat which they harvested without planting it. Throughout all these lands there are bears, rosemary, sage better than that of Gluadalaxara, cobenas, and chia.

March 20 SP -- Traveling six leagues to the northwest, we came to the Santa Ana River. After following the current for a league and a half to find a ford we halted, and a bridge was made on which to take over the cargoes. The place offers fair advantages for stock and crops, but there is little timber. There are few Indians in the neighborhood. Having examined a hut I saw a number of little baskets, very similar to those of Pimería Alta and a good many of the beads or corals which they trade with the tribes of the rivers and pass as far as the missions, where we have always heard that these corals came from this region.

March 21 SP -- Going seven leagues to the northwest, we came to an arroyo called San Antonio. Here there are many bears and sycamores. The Sierra Nevada now turns toward the west-northwest. In it there is a pass which, according to what they say, leads out to the mission of San Luís.

March 22 SP -- Having traveled three leagues, we, found ourselves in sight of San Gabriel, and ran upon the trail of the horses and cattle. To find the ford cost us a great deal of time; then we crossed the river and arrived at the mission of San Gabriel. The direction traveled today was much varied, especially in order to enter, but the principal direction seems to be west-northwest. The day's march was five leagues.